Question about Haier Washing Machines

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Err 7 showing and not spinning, all wires connected to motor?

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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Haier 'err7' decodes as 'motor overheat protection or is damaged' which points to an engineer visit I'm afraid ;-0(
Sorry,
Good luck,
John C

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • hario796 Mar 29, 2011

    thanks John C, i managed to get it going again by taking out the motor brushes and cleaning them with sandpaper, only temporary repair but saved a few quid. replacing with new brushes will be next job, once again thanks

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Frigidaire oven FSC88B-4 shows "Err F3 " message. What to do?


F3 - Open/shorted sensor (RTD probe) connection.
Check the temperature sensor and the wires and plugs between the sensor and the EOC are good, replace the temperature sensor (RTD probe). If the sensor and wiring are good, the EOC would need to be replaced.

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My Roper washing machine will not complete a cycle. It stops before it gets to rinse. If I turn it off and wait a few hours, it will run and finish if I waited long enough. Could the motor be dying?


ATTACHEMENTS ON HOW TO TEST MOTOR


The following test must be made on one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors:

1.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

2.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

3.The ohmmeter should showZEROresistance (continuity). If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

Start Winding

4.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the black wire from the motor.

5.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the yellow wire from the motor.

6.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 4-10 ohms.

7.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

High Winding

8.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

9.touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

10.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 0-4 ohms.

11.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

12.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

13.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

14.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

15.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on two-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-15:

Low Winding

16.
touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

17.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

18.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

19.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

20.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

21.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

22.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

23.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

24.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the violet wire from the motor.

25.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

26.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-7 ohms.

27.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following test must be made on three-speed drive motors, along with steps 1-27:

Ex-Low Winding

28.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

29. Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

30.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

31.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

32.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white wire from the motor.

33.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

34.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

35.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

36.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

37.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

38.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

39.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

40.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the blue wire from the motor.

41.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

42.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

43.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

44.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

45.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

46.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

47.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

48.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/black wire from the motor.

49.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

50.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 1-5 ohms.

51.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

52.Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/orange wire from the motor.

53.Touch the other ohmmeter probe to the terminal on the white/violet wire from the motor.

54.The ohmmeter should show a reading between 2-8 ohms.

55.If you do not get this reading, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.

The following three (3) checks must be made on all one-, two-, and three-speed drive motors to check for an internal failure (short):

56.
Touch and hold one ohmmeter probe to the drive motor housing.

57.
One at a time touch the other ohmmeter probe to each of the wires (terminals)coming from the drive motor.

58.
The ohmmeter should show an open circuit when each of the wires (terminals)are checked. If not, the drive motor is bad and needs replacing.


HOW TO live TEST a G.E - MOTOR

After removing the cabinet follow the wires from the motor halfway up the tub. Then cut and splice the ORANGE, the BLUE, the VIOLET /WHITE, & the RED wires.
Now using a long long extension cord with the end connector cut off and exposing the 2 end wires stripped back about an inch.

To check the spin cycle: Connect and splice the RED & the Blue wires to one end of the extension cord wire. And the ORANGE & WHITE /VIOLET to the other end of extension cord, be sure to use but connectors or electrical tape. Plug in the cord an the wash cycle should start? If not the motor is bad.

To check the wash cycle: Connect the BLUE and the WHITE/VIOLET wires to one end of cord. And the ORANGE & RED connected to the other end of cord, then plug in and the wash cycle should start? If not the motor is bad.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!


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Mar 20, 2015 | Roper Washing Machines

1 Answer

Haier 6kg err7


This problem is quite common on these machines, especially just after the machine has been moved. Err 7 is a motor error. It is usually because the electrical connector has become detatched from the motor. Here is how to fix it.
  • First of all, PLEASE unplug the machine from the wall socket! And switch off the water supply too!
  • Pull the machine out from under the counter, and turn it so that you have access to the back of the machine.
  • Remove the 3 phillips screws that secure the back plate. You are only removing the small plate immediately behind the drum, not the whole back panel!
  • Look through the hole you have just created by removing the panel down towards the bottom of the machine. You will see the motor. Hopefully you will also see a 7 way connector not connected to anything, and a 7-way socket on the motor! (7 way means that it connects 7 different wires!)
  • Plug the connector back on to the motor. Don't worry, it will only go one way round, so you can't get it wrong. If the connector looks like it is connected, give it a little wiggle and a push to make sure it is fully home.

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1 Answer

No err appears and not spinning, changed the circuit board still not spinning


Have you checked the motor separately, have you checked the process cycle of machine, if this does proceed then it can be related to mechanical issues of motor or shaft jamming, faulty door switch, faulty connections, faulty water level pressure sensors.

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My JVC KD-R426 keeps on saying warning check wiring and reset system. I've tried everthing but it still does the same. What must I do


Not sure if this will help any other owners since my answer is 4 years late, but this is what I found from another user. Apparently if you mess with the wiring too often, it goes in a safe mode which you need to do some button trickery to unlock the device from it's safe mode. These are the Steps.
1.Disconnect power supply
2.Press [MENU] and [UP arrow] buttons and keep holding.
3. While holding the buttons [MENU] / [UP arrow], connect the power plug again
A. The display will show "DC ERR"
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a. Press and hold [UP arrow] and it will show "DC1 OK"
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F6 error on Hitachi washing machine Sk 120KJS


The F6 error code means that the computer on the control didnt detect that the motor reached a high speed on the spin cycle, sometimes it thinks the washer didnt spin fast enough because of a loose wire connection either on the motor or the control boards (motor &machine control) if you find that the washer did actually spin at high speed (clothes dont come out sopping wet at the end of cycle) the wire connections or the motor control board will be the potential causes of the F6 error code. Try unplugging the machine for five minutes to let the computer reset then try again. Next check the control panel wires.

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1 Answer

Code f50 is what?


The F50 error code indicates that the RPS (rotor position sensor) detects no motor rotation. Check to see if the basket spins freely. If not, you could have an item caught between the outer tub and the inner spin basket. A toy or other item underneath the washer could also prevent the basket from spinning and would result in this F50 code.

If the basket spins freely, you could have a wiring failure that would prevent the motor from spinning.

Motor Circuit
This test checks the wiring to the motor and rotor position sensor; and the motor and rotor position sensor themselves. NOTE: Drain water from tub.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and check the motor and electrical connections by performing the Agitate and Spin tests under Manual: Motor. The following steps assumes that this stepfailed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check to see if basket will turn freely. If basket turns freely, go to step 4. If basket does not turn freely, determine what is causing the mechanical
friction or lock up.
4. Remove the console to access the machine/ motor control assembly. See Accessing& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
5. Visually check that the P5 and P10 connectors are inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. If visual checks pass, go to step 6.
If visual checks fail, reconnect P5 and P10 and repeat step 1.
6. With an ohmmeter, check for 16 ohms resistance at the P5 connector between pins P5-1 and P5-2, and also between pins P5-1 and P5-3. Also measure the resistance at the P10 connector between pins P10-1 and P10-7 and verify that the resistance is within the range shown in the wiring diagram on page 7-1.
If the resistance is correct, go to step 11. If the P5 connector resistance is much higher than 16 ohms, or the P10 connector resistance is out of range, go to
step 7.
7. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom of the machine and the drive motor area. See Figure 1 on page 6-13. Remove the motor bolt, then the motor cover to access the motor connections. See Figure 2 on page 6-13.
8. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical connections to the motor and rotor position sensor board. If visual check passes, go to step 9.
If visual check fails, reconnect the electrical connections, reassemble stator and motor cover and repeat step 1.
9. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P10 machine/motor control connector and the motor rotor position sensor (RPS) connector. See Figures 2 and 4, pages 6-13 and 6-16. If there is continuity, go to step 11. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
10. With an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all pins on the P5 machine/motor control connector and the drive motor connector. If there is continuity, replace the drive motor. If there is no continuity, replace the lower machine harness.
11. The drive motor and lower harness are good. Replace the motor RPS board and perform the Diagnostics test in step 1 to verify repair.
12. If the Diagnostics motor test in step 1 failed, then the machine/motor control has failed: Unplug the washer or disconnect power. Replace the machine/motor control assembly. Perform the Motor Diagnostics in step 1 to verify repair.

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3 year old Whirlpool Duet - F07 error showing up 98% of the time on high spin; 70% of time on medium & low spin. Checked conections between MCU & CCU. Should I buy a new MCU or a new washer?


No do the following:
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  • Check the MCU
  • Check the Drive Motor
  • Check the Wire Harness
If the wiring is definitely OK and the drive motor is OK then the MCU is most likely to be the culprit.

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1 Answer

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After oheming motor control board as stated in the service manual. Tracing the 6 pin lead wires from the control board to the motor plug. I found that one of the pin on motor plug was not making proper connection. I used a screw driver to pry the pin open so it made a better connection. Tried the washer and so far it has been working 7 washes. 

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