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Acer M1800 Motherboard (Acer Inspire M1800 )the cpu and power supply fans and heat sinks clean. The machine is switching off (not shutting down just instantly off) it is doing this at random -even when not in the operating system it has happened twice while just checking settings in Bios--while still in bios temperature and voltage settings are normal. when running in operating system (WIN 7)temps are also normal range expected ... this problem happens randomly some times 60 seconds or so after starting up or it can run for 30-60 minutes or more running with loaded programs or just idling doing nothing doesn't make any difference on the time it takes to shuts down.Some times if you use the power on button to restart after it shuts down the cpu fan starts up at full speed but the computer does not boot and wont turn off with the power button it then needs to be turned off at the mains after it does this.Once reset by disconnecting power and reconnecting it will start snd boot as normal until ity randomly shuts back down

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: power shuts down while booting

John here, customer advocate at Dell headquarters. I would suggest performing a hardware diagnostic. Your system should have shipped with a Dimension Resource CD, and if you boot to this CD, you should be able to see the diagnostics menu. From there, you have the option of testing all hardware components. If it is a hardware problem (and it sounds like it is) then the diagnostics should come up with an error code on a specific piece of hardware, or during the testing phase, your system should power off. Take note of where it powers off in the diagnostics, as this will most likely by the point of failure.

Posted on Jun 21, 2007

Kurth
  • 86 Answers

SOURCE: shutting down then starting back up whenever

Ya. If it keeps re-booting then it may be a virus (my things virus)
If not, go to system properties and start up and recovery settings. remove reboot on error settings (in XP) It doesnt fix the root cause but may stop your frustration

Posted on Apr 11, 2008

Chadha Saab
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: asus a8v deluxe mobo no start

This is a NO POST scenario
How to troubleshoot No POST
1. Check wall socket whether power is working fine
2. Check PSU (Power Supply Unit) fan whether it is rotating or not.
3. Change power socket.
4. Change the the main power cable from the wall socket to the PSU.
5. Check whether the lights on the keyboard flash when you turn on the power.
6. Check the voltage selector swicth at the back of the PSU ( Ideally should be 115v for US region and 220v for Asia ).
7. Check all peripherals like keyboard, mouse, video cable whether they are connected properly or not.
8. Open Chassis >> Check RAM connected properly.
9. Remove add-on cards like graphic cards, modem card, PCMCIA card slots, LAN card etc.
10. Take out main power connector (grey-black) or brown, green cable from front board panel of cabinet from where you turn on the power for CPU. and also take it out from the motherboard,
11. Check I/O cable which comes from power button on cabinet whether it is firmly connected nor not.
12. Plugg all the cables back in.
If still u face the same problem Then
13. Take out CMOS battery from motherboard and press power on/off button for 30 seconds and plugg CMOS battery back in to the motherboard.
ram chips swapped out with a known working chip of the same type

HDD swapped over with the HDD out of my portable external backup HDD

FLASHING A BIOS:
A couple of items are really important if you decide to flash. First. Make sure the updated bios addresses the issue you are trying to solve. eg many motherboard makers update their bios's for many different reasons. A reason may simply be to get a certain big name brand of pc to work correctly with a new cd writer big brand pc is selling.
So you really have to read the docs so see if the upgrade addresses your specific niggle or concern. Secondly, try your motherboard maker first to see if they have the files you need. Bios's upgrades are best had, if available, from the company that made your motherboard or pc. In most cases these are free.
Thirdly, READ THE DOCS CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW THEM TO THE LETTER. Dont skip any steps, especially the backup option if available. Fourth, if the upgrade calls for a clean bootdisk, use one. The disk I made especially for bios flashing is the one you can download above. It's a DrDOS bootdisk with NO drivers loading up in config.sys or autoexec.bat which is very important. My bios flash bootdisk is recommended by the most popular motherboad makers.
If you dont have a 1.44 drive I also created a utility to use to flash from a CD which you can add the new bios and flash utility to and then burn it.
It should have room to add your new bios, the flash utility, and also have room for the backup. If not one can always use another disk for the info. Always use BRAND NEW MEDIA when dealing with flashes.
In order to locate the correct bios upgrade for your motherboard you need to know who made it AND you need to know the model number. If your PC was made locally perhaps you have the manual. If not, then you need to find out the maker and model. Or, and very common with major brands, your computer maker will/may have the updated bios's on their website.
I have one windows and three dos utils that find your motherboard maker and model number. One of them should work for you. The DOS utils are on my DOStools Page under Diagnostics, and are called CTbios, MBID, and HW iNFO. The windows utility is called BIOS Agent and is on my Utilities Page under Hardware .
Once you ID your motherboard and model go the the manufacturers website and see what they have available. Note that some upgrades will come with their own bootdisk/utility so you may not need the disk I made.
Again, note that even tho many people flash their bios regularly to get the latest features and never have a problem, I still recommend it as a last resort as a flash gone bad will make your pc unusable if the backup doesn't work. Look at it this way, suppose I have a used 80 gig drive I want to resuse and my old P400 cant even detect it so I have an unusable pc. This is the best, and most common reason to flash.
On the other hand, if you have a more modern pc that cant see lets say a 180 gig drive and but all else is working properly then you may want to consider a PCI hard drive controller card which has an onboard bios that will see your new large hard drive and also come with 2 more IDE channels you can use in addition to the 2 channels you already have. This is safer than flashing the bios.


Posted on Jun 08, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fatal1ty FP-IN9 SLI + Q9400 + BIOS16 = wrong CPU temp + noisy fan

I notice that the solution from myself was posted as a comment. This may prevent some from locating it. I reposted as a solution under a different name. Hopefully it would help those have the similar problem.

In addition to the following solution, you may also set the CPU core voltage to your CPU specification. My Q9400 VCore specification is 0.85~1.3625V. The BIOS auto setting sets it at 1.1625V. I just manually set it to 1.3625. CPUZ shows that C1E and stepping will lower it as necessary. It should provide the CPU more juice when it needs it, while keeps it cool when it is idle.

---------
Ok, this is myself (Recnelis). I may find the solution for this problem. The trick is to use the beta BIOS 18 and increase the "CPU VTT Voltage" in the BIOS "SoftMenu Setup".

The beta BIOS 18 could be found here:

http://forums.hexus.net/abit-care-hexus/149415-bios-updates-intel-e0-stepping.html

To make the long story short, BIOS 16 is relatively stable for Q9400 but could not recognize the CPU correctly. BIOS 18 (beta) can recognize the CPU correctly but is very unstable - random application crashes, blue screen, freeze, etc.

Here is some "history" about the issue. Fatal1ty FP-in9 SLI uses nVidia 650i SLI. If you google "nVidia 650i 45nm quad core", you will find a lot of people has the similar issue. Many websites suggest that it is because of the difference between the release version of the Intel 45nm quad core and the one sent to nVidia for testing (due to that nVidia turned off Intel's request for acquiring its SLI technology according to some rumors). Some forums suggest voltage is among those differences.

In the BIOS, you may notice that the voltage settings in the "SoftMenu Setup" are different from the actual voltages in the "PC Health Status". In my case, the actual voltages are similar but lower than the settings. One exception is the "CPU VTT Voltage". The BIOS automatically set it at 1.2V, while the actual voltage in the "PC Health Status" shows it is only a little above 1.0V. That is more than 16% drop. 1.0V is too low to keep the system stable. Guys in o/c world usualy increase the "CPU VTT Voltage" up to 1.5V to keep the system stable. Since I'm not o/c'ing my system, I do not go that far. For my particular case, when I set it to 1.31V in the "SoftMenu Setup", the actual voltage in the "PC Health Status" is 1.2V, which is what the auto setting trys to do. For your system, you may want to increase the setting one notch at a time to safely increase the actual voltage reading.

Before this tweak, my system cannot even run more than 30 minutes under BIOS 18. After this small tweak (under BIOS 18), my system becomes a whole lot more stable (no crash so far after a few days of using). It passed RealTemp torture test (using Prim95) many many times without a single hiccup. I tried to post this at least one week after the system runs in stable status; but I think some of you may still be searching for the solution.

More good news for those who want to keep the Fatal1ty IN-FP9 SLI/Q9400 for a while: I even installed Windows 7 RC (build 7100) with the new nVidia Windows 7 mobo driver and graphic driver. Everything is running smoothly so far.

Good luck to your tweaking.

Recnelis

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

kd6rhd56
  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: Compaq V2710us shuts down randomly with a loud click

Loud click sounds like either a short or overload, causing ground default. recheck inside for any loose connections anything grounding out the motherboard.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

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Acer aod257 freezes up after about 10 minutes. runs hot. Any ideas?


Overheating When the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermal overload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is the problem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are clogged with dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
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Acer aspire 5517 powers up sometimes and not others. Randomly shuts down.


Overheating When the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermal overload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is the problem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are clogged with dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make sure the vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed air to do this.

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My acer Keeps shutting down Could it just be dirty or do need to upgrade the power supply


Overheating When the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermal overload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is the problem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are clogged with dust.
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Emachines t5212 overheat message then shuts down


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2) A Fan not working. Make sure the fan inside the Power Supply where you plug the power cord in works. Also there is a fan that sits on top of the CPU and Heat Sink. Make sure it works. Normally the system will give you an error message if the fan is not working.

3) Thermal Paste - The Thermal Paste around the cpu and heat sink has dried up or is too thin to keep the unit cool. Apply a fresh coat of Thermal Paste on the CPU and Heat Sink.

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Acer Aspire 4930 heats up very quickly


When the CPU overheats then it will shut down (i.e. thermaloverload) and won't boot up again until it has cooled down. If this is theproblem is not fixed then the CPU will eventually fail.
A faulty fan causes the problem or the fan and heat sink assembly are cloggedwith dust.
Check the CPU fan to see if it spins freely, if not replace the fan.
If the fan and heat sink is clogged with dust the remove the dust and make surethe vents are clear and dust free. Use a small brush and can of compressed airto do this.

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1 Answer

Laptop won't boot turns on then off after about


Hello,

Your Laptop seems to be full of dust - Maybe your CPU Heat sink FAN cannot turn because if this THUS causing your laptop to heat up and shut down again to prevent your CPU from receiving damage due to high temperature.

Close your laptop lid, then put the unit on its backlcd. Make sure you disconnect the Battery and the A/C Power chord. With the emty battery slot is facing you, take note of the screw that is facing you to the right on the bottom cover. There might be others like this in the same area. The cover that you need to remove is of rectangular shape, and the largest cover.

When you have removed it you should see the CPU Heat sink and a FAN. This is the part where you blow the unit out at that spot with compressed air so that the dirt will no longer block the heat from venting away from the laptop mainboard/cpu.Please check if the CPU FAN is still turning licenly. If it doesn't turn or very difficult - replace .

[ADVANCED]
Then, remove the 3 screws from the CPU heat sink and thereby remove the HEAT sink completely. Remove the CPU Heat sink FAN and clean it as nessesary. Use a small flat to switch the CPU from closed to open and remove it. Then clean it with a cloth and ethanol - make sure you remove all dirt and old heat sink paste on top if it. make sure you do not touch the bottom of the CPU and handle the pins carefully.

When you are done, place the CPU back and reaaply a eyedrop of fresh heatsink paste onto the CPU, lock the CPU switch again. Then clean the backside of the CPU heat sink where it rests on the CPU. When you are done with that, place the CPU heat sink back onto the CPU then screw the 3 screws back onto the CPU heat sink and onto the mainboard. Keep the sequence in mind. Reconnect the CPU Heat sink FAN to power on the mainboard with the cable then place the cover back onto it. Tighten all screws again and reconnect battery and A/C Power chord.


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I was running a virus check, asked what to do, I said fix, computer shut down and alarm buzzer came on. now I don't get a boot sound


soks3d,
With the system shut down, unplug the power cable from the power supply. Open you're case and pull the memory from the system wait a minute than reseat the memory. Re-connect the power cable to the power supply. Try booting the system and enter the bios menu. (Pulling the memory will clear any memory resident virus). This has nothing to do with the alarm buzzer sound you heard. Typically the alarm sound is generated by the CPU. It's an audible warning that the CPU is over-heating. The CPU will shut down you're system so as not to damage the motherboard and CPU. (Suggest you check the CPU fan for dust build-up. Use canned air to help remove any build-up. You can also use a clean paint brush to help remove any dust from under each CPU fan blade.
It's also possible that the CPU fan is running far too slow and may need to be replaced.
See page 3-23 in you're user manual.
3-8. PC Health Status.

Open the link provided below for a new heat-sink and fan assembly for a socket 462;
http://www.directron.com/a4004d.html
If the CPU fan and heat-sink assembly seems clean it is also possible that the thermal grease / thermal tape between the heat-sink and CPU is too old and needs to be replaced. (Save this check for last).
Below is the link for you're motherboard;
http://www.abit.com.tw/page/en/motherboard/motherboard_detail.php?pMODEL_NAME=KV7-V&fMTYPE=Socket+A

Cheers'
Mike

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keep me posted

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