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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: power shuts down while booting
John here, customer advocate at Dell headquarters. I would suggest performing a hardware diagnostic. Your system should have shipped with a Dimension Resource CD, and if you boot to this CD, you should be able to see the diagnostics menu. From there, you have the option of testing all hardware components. If it is a hardware problem (and it sounds like it is) then the diagnostics should come up with an error code on a specific piece of hardware, or during the testing phase, your system should power off. Take note of where it powers off in the diagnostics, as this will most likely by the point of failure.
Posted on Jun 21, 2007
Ya. If it keeps re-booting then it may be a virus (my things virus)
If not, go to system properties and start up and recovery settings. remove reboot on error settings (in XP) It doesnt fix the root cause but may stop your frustration
Posted on Apr 11, 2008
SOURCE: asus a8v deluxe mobo no start
This is a NO POST scenario
How to troubleshoot No POST
1. Check wall socket whether power is working fine
2. Check PSU (Power Supply Unit) fan whether it is rotating or not.
3. Change power socket.
4. Change the the main power cable from the wall socket to the PSU.
5. Check whether the lights on the keyboard flash when you turn on the power.
6. Check the voltage selector swicth at the back of the PSU ( Ideally should be 115v for US region and 220v for Asia ).
7. Check all peripherals like keyboard, mouse, video cable whether they are connected properly or not.
8. Open Chassis >> Check RAM connected properly.
9. Remove add-on cards like graphic cards, modem card, PCMCIA card slots, LAN card etc.
10. Take out main power connector (grey-black) or brown, green cable from front board panel of cabinet from where you turn on the power for CPU. and also take it out from the motherboard,
11. Check I/O cable which comes from power button on cabinet whether it is firmly connected nor not.
12. Plugg all the cables back in.
If still u face the same problem Then
13. Take out CMOS battery from motherboard and press power on/off button for 30 seconds and plugg CMOS battery back in to the motherboard.
ram chips swapped out with a known working chip of the same type
HDD swapped over with the HDD out of my portable external backup HDD
FLASHING A BIOS:
A couple of items are really important if you decide to flash. First. Make sure the updated bios addresses the issue you are trying to solve. eg many motherboard makers update their bios's for many different reasons. A reason may simply be to get a certain big name brand of pc to work correctly with a new cd writer big brand pc is selling.
So you really have to read the docs so see if the upgrade addresses your specific niggle or concern. Secondly, try your motherboard maker first to see if they have the files you need. Bios's upgrades are best had, if available, from the company that made your motherboard or pc. In most cases these are free.
Thirdly, READ THE DOCS CAREFULLY AND FOLLOW THEM TO THE LETTER. Dont skip any steps, especially the backup option if available. Fourth, if the upgrade calls for a clean bootdisk, use one. The disk I made especially for bios flashing is the one you can download above. It's a DrDOS bootdisk with NO drivers loading up in config.sys or autoexec.bat which is very important. My bios flash bootdisk is recommended by the most popular motherboad makers.
If you dont have a 1.44 drive I also created a utility to use to flash from a CD which you can add the new bios and flash utility to and then burn it.
It should have room to add your new bios, the flash utility, and also have room for the backup. If not one can always use another disk for the info. Always use BRAND NEW MEDIA when dealing with flashes.
In order to locate the correct bios upgrade for your motherboard you need to know who made it AND you need to know the model number. If your PC was made locally perhaps you have the manual. If not, then you need to find out the maker and model. Or, and very common with major brands, your computer maker will/may have the updated bios's on their website.
I have one windows and three dos utils that find your motherboard maker and model number. One of them should work for you. The DOS utils are on my DOStools Page under Diagnostics, and are called CTbios, MBID, and HW iNFO. The windows utility is called BIOS Agent and is on my Utilities Page under Hardware .
Once you ID your motherboard and model go the the manufacturers website and see what they have available. Note that some upgrades will come with their own bootdisk/utility so you may not need the disk I made.
Again, note that even tho many people flash their bios regularly to get the latest features and never have a problem, I still recommend it as a last resort as a flash gone bad will make your pc unusable if the backup doesn't work. Look at it this way, suppose I have a used 80 gig drive I want to resuse and my old P400 cant even detect it so I have an unusable pc. This is the best, and most common reason to flash.
On the other hand, if you have a more modern pc that cant see lets say a 180 gig drive and but all else is working properly then you may want to consider a PCI hard drive controller card which has an onboard bios that will see your new large hard drive and also come with 2 more IDE channels you can use in addition to the 2 channels you already have. This is safer than flashing the bios.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
I notice that the solution from myself was posted as a comment. This may prevent some from locating it. I reposted as a solution under a different name. Hopefully it would help those have the similar problem.
In addition to the following solution, you may also set the CPU core voltage to your CPU specification. My Q9400 VCore specification is 0.85~1.3625V. The BIOS auto setting sets it at 1.1625V. I just manually set it to 1.3625. CPUZ shows that C1E and stepping will lower it as necessary. It should provide the CPU more juice when it needs it, while keeps it cool when it is idle.
Ok, this is myself (Recnelis). I may find the solution for this problem. The trick is to use the beta BIOS 18 and increase the "CPU VTT Voltage" in the BIOS "SoftMenu Setup".
The beta BIOS 18 could be found here:
To make the long story short, BIOS 16 is relatively stable for Q9400 but could not recognize the CPU correctly. BIOS 18 (beta) can recognize the CPU correctly but is very unstable - random application crashes, blue screen, freeze, etc.
Here is some "history" about the issue. Fatal1ty FP-in9 SLI uses nVidia 650i SLI. If you google "nVidia 650i 45nm quad core", you will find a lot of people has the similar issue. Many websites suggest that it is because of the difference between the release version of the Intel 45nm quad core and the one sent to nVidia for testing (due to that nVidia turned off Intel's request for acquiring its SLI technology according to some rumors). Some forums suggest voltage is among those differences.
In the BIOS, you may notice that the voltage settings in the "SoftMenu Setup" are different from the actual voltages in the "PC Health Status". In my case, the actual voltages are similar but lower than the settings. One exception is the "CPU VTT Voltage". The BIOS automatically set it at 1.2V, while the actual voltage in the "PC Health Status" shows it is only a little above 1.0V. That is more than 16% drop. 1.0V is too low to keep the system stable. Guys in o/c world usualy increase the "CPU VTT Voltage" up to 1.5V to keep the system stable. Since I'm not o/c'ing my system, I do not go that far. For my particular case, when I set it to 1.31V in the "SoftMenu Setup", the actual voltage in the "PC Health Status" is 1.2V, which is what the auto setting trys to do. For your system, you may want to increase the setting one notch at a time to safely increase the actual voltage reading.
Before this tweak, my system cannot even run more than 30 minutes under BIOS 18. After this small tweak (under BIOS 18), my system becomes a whole lot more stable (no crash so far after a few days of using). It passed RealTemp torture test (using Prim95) many many times without a single hiccup. I tried to post this at least one week after the system runs in stable status; but I think some of you may still be searching for the solution.
More good news for those who want to keep the Fatal1ty IN-FP9 SLI/Q9400 for a while: I even installed Windows 7 RC (build 7100) with the new nVidia Windows 7 mobo driver and graphic driver. Everything is running smoothly so far.
Good luck to your tweaking.
Posted on Jun 02, 2009
Loud click sounds like either a short or overload, causing ground default. recheck inside for any loose connections anything grounding out the motherboard.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
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