Question about Clarion VX400 Car Video Player

1 Answer

My screen went white. Everything works but it is a white screen. The only thing I did new to the car since was put a new optima deep cycle battery in. Can anyone help?? thanks

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  • zangert Mar 26, 2011

    It is my main screen. When I'm listening to the radio driving down the road the screen is white. The day after it went white it was normal after starting the car up again then it went white again after 5 minutes and hasn't come back since.

  • zangert Mar 26, 2011

    The radio has been working with no problems for a year and now it just did this

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  • Clarion Master
  • 74,482 Answers

Hello
If the video image is not displayed on screen, check that the parking brake is engaged. If it is not engaged, no video will come at all.

If it is OK, surely its video display DAC IC has damged. It cannot be replaced by ordinary soldering methods, and shoul be replaced as card basis. To get it repaired, you should contact the nearest Clarion authorised service center. This card cannot be purchased from open electronic market. OK

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • The Knight
    The Knight Mar 26, 2011

    Hello
    Your complaint goes to some loose solderings or loose contacts cinside your Clarion system. Since the fault is intermittent, it indicates this. You have checked the things I stated earlier I thinks. I've given that advice to you, from the user manual of your Clarion itsef. The company indicates that is the reason for a blank screen, while all other functions are OK. If this fault still distrub you, check it with, for loose contact. OK.

  • The Knight
    The Knight Mar 26, 2011

    Yes. Ofcourse we are discussing about its video section itsef. Radio and Video sections are entirely different to each other. The circuits are differnt, processings are different. Your set suffers with some viceo processing trouble. The only thing that denotes with its manual for this fault is that I reported to you earlier. it has been underlined. As the video section works intermittenly, there should be some contact trouble with video display to video card. Vehicles are subjected to vibrations. The vibrations can cause loose soldering joints in between interconnections. Normally, this fault cannot be detected by meter checks. the cracks in joints, if any, will be microscopic, and proper checking should be done. in your set, its display works now and then as you reports. It means that, there is no fault to the display unit. Its drive section or solder contacts I indicated above should be checked well. Years of use and vibrations may cause these troubles, and it is normal toall electronic equipments fitted in vehicles. If you wants anymore assistance, feel free to get me by Fixya. I'm very happy to assist you. OK.

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Power Cap or Deep Cycle Battery?


your amplifier has the following specs:

Output Power at 12V:
1 x 200W @ 4 ohms (0.05% THD, 20Hz - 20kHz)
1 x 400W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)
Output Power at 14.4V:
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1 x 600W @ 2 ohms (0.5% THD, 1kHz)

a .5 farad cap should work fine for 12v applications, a .75 will work fine for 14.4v applications. If you plan on upgrading the stereo system in the future, you should probably just pick up a 1 farad now and save trouble later.

when mounting the cap, mount it as close to the sub as possible. i recommended a deep cycle battery in an earlier solution due to the power handling requirements for the amp and speaker combo, any time you are working on a competition or semi-competition setup, you will want to isolate your audio system as much as possible from your vehicle's main electronics. i normally use a deep cycle battery if it's going to be a comp/street combo as you can sit at the lake and jam all night without killing your main battery. for comp only use, i stick to optima batteries, they seem to work well and can dump loads of amperage pretty quick.

if you go the dual battery route, you will want to buy a battery isolator to make sure the two batteries are independent of each other.

hope this helps,
trin

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