Question about QSC GX5 Stereo Power Amplifier

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THE POWER SWITCH ON THE FRONT OF MY GX5 IS GOING BAD, AMP IS LOSING POWER, STARTS WORKING AGAIN WHEN I FLIP THE SWITH ON AND OFF.

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A lot of the rocker switches fail due to starting surge of these amps. You can try squirting a little CRC226 into the back if it has holes. You can get this product at Home Depot in the electrical dept. Use ONLY this product. Blue can about $2.70
If that doesn't fix it, then replacement of the switch is in order.

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

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Check the "BRIDGE" switch position, "IN" for "BRIDGE", "OUT" for "STEREO", and clean ALL back switches with a cleaning spray and then run the amp again, also check the two green lights activation at front, if they activate, then amp is certainly working, let me know further.

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I have a beringer sx3242fx, i need to know the best compatible amplifier to use my samson speaker that pushes up to 500 w


Almost any amplifier will work so there is no "best"... Just make sure the amp RMS rating is a bit below the RMS rating of the speaker for safety of the speaker. A QSC GX5 would be a candidate. You would use one side of it for each speaker if you have two, or use only one side for a single speaker. A lot of pro's seem to use these amps. USE BALANCED interconnections either XLR or TRS cables AND for sure power the amp and the mixer from the same receptacle... it often means running an extension cord like the pro's do to avoid ground bounce noise AND damage to the equipment.

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When I leave my right monitor on for longer than 20 minutes I get an accending hissing noise before all sound completely cuts out. The light stays on so I know it's recieving power, when I try other...


Sounds like you have a problem in the amplifier section. Could be a bad capacitor or a floating ground. As a charge builds it will create the hiss and when it discharges, it surges through the amp causing it to shut down. You'll probably want to send them in for service.

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When i turn on my 212R it turns on in drive channel. if footswith is plugged in, then it turns on in the clean channel, but after switching in drive it is impossible to switch it back in clean channel. What could be wrong? Swith position doesnt change anything and it seems like switch is OK.

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My 100hdfx has a problem switching channels. Both overdrive channels work fine but the clean channel is none existant. If you switch it to the clean channel and turn it up all the way you can faintly here...


have you tried the footswitch to change channels. also. my amp has to be in channel 2 position (with the button on the head) before i can use the footswitch. sometimes the input/footswitch jack wears out and you need to bend the internal tip/ring tabs of the jack to make better contact. also like on my fender amp, i had just a standard mono instrument cable going to my footswitch and it was acting wierd cause it needed a stereo instrument cable. one last thing on the grounding resistors on the pcb, they get hot and break the solder welds which messes with all sorts of stuff in amps. usually look like sugar cubes , cement resistor. 5watt usually under 1k ohm. check for bad solder welds on the pcb where the big resistors are and the switches/buttons and at the footswitch. there may be a bad ic or transistor for the channel swithing

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1 Answer

Power switch replacement


Some of the rocker switches can be PRIED out from the outside as they have plastic "springs" at the ends... look at you new one.

IF you can pry the old one out you MAY have long enough wires to allow the old one to come out a bit and transfer to new one and push it back in.

ELSE you have to take the amp out.

USUALLY the speaker and the board it sits on remains in the cabinet.

There will be screws that hold the amp in... You kind of have to try to find which to remove to release the amp chassis. You may have to remove the speaker wires or wires to a reverb tank... MARK ALL these and restore to exact same places.

HINT: Once the screws are out, OFTEN the Tolex cabinet covering loves to catch on the chassis so you have to fight to get the chassis out... a real pain and THEN putting it back in the Tolex fights you again !!!

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JCM2000 DSL100 No Sound


Not likely to be a fuse. The bane of electrical amps are the connectors.

Often the speaker and more commonly the input 1/4 inch connectors go bad. Sometimes caused by side loads when cables are yanked or tripped over.

Be careful of running amps IF the speakers are not connected OR have bad connectors or cables. You can arc over the tubes or pop transistors.

Get a cheap Volt-ohmeter from HarborFreight or Radio Shack and test your cables and connectors.

For a tube amp, your should find relatively low resistance at the speaker connector (certainly under 20 ohms). Do this with power off.

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The dfx doesn't switch off with either the foot switch or the front panel switch


http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/MArshall_MG100DFX.pdf Heres the schematic. Check the footswitch jack for bad solder joints to the board. If the channel indicator isn't lighting up check for 5 volts at R38 and R39. If you have no experience with troubleshooting I wouldn't recommend working on the amp unless you learn more about the subject. To start do not work on the amp while it is powered up as the capacitors store a lethal charge and even if you don't get hurt it is easy to damage components via a short circuit. I hope some of this helps.

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Turned on switch to crate V33-212 and it shorted out


Your amplifier is a solid-state rectified tube amplifier. This means that a tube is NOT used for the power supply. Why is this significant? Because most of the time you have the problem you are describing, it is because of the tube rectifier.
Since this amp does not have a tube rectifier, the problem is likely one or more of the tubes. I have seen in 95% of the amps I repaired that the tubes were the cause, and since the amp is so new, I would suspect tubes first.
Now the hard part: which tube? Without a tube tester, you will have to use the 'firewall' technique. You will need to get a bunch of replacement fuses, as you might go through a few untill you find the problem. Radio Shack is a great place for fuses (make sure they are SLOW BLOW type).
The problem is almost guarenteed to be the power tubes: they are a big failure mode in tube amps (the preamp tubes are not as likely the problem).

This is what I do at a customer site without a tube tester:
(1) Have either a KNOWN TO BE GOOD REPLACEMENT SET OF TUBES or a NEW SET OF TUBES.
(2) Have plenty of fuses.
(3) Start with power tubes: they cause most of these problems. Replace burned out fuse.
(4) Replace all 2 (or 4 in your case) with the good tubes.
(5) Turn on amp and play on it (30 minutes at various volumes and settings). Turn it on and off many times using the on/off procedure your amp requires (like using the standby switch on some models).

* if the amp plays and works, likely you had a bad power tube. If you are blowing fuses, the problem is either the power amp circuitry or the preamp tubes.

* Leave the good power tubes in before going on to the next step. Also: the minor difference in bias wont matter for what we are doing now: the bias being WAY out is almost never the cause.

(6) Check preamp tubes (easy to do, as this does not require us to poke around on the insides).
(7) Replace burned out fuse (atleast number two by this point).
(8) Replace all preamp tubes.
(9) Turn on and repeat step 5.

* Blowing fuses at this point means atleast two types of repairs needed: retention tube sockets or someone to look inside the amp. Either way, this is a serviceman repair (things I do). Since the amp is so new, take the warentee buyout and throw it back to where you got it. Crate is real good about dealing with these issues (if you are the only owner and it is within warantee).

If you need to contact warantee support, you can tell them you have had the amp re-tubed and the problem still persists (meaning they can brush you off with 'just get it retubed and then call us if there is problems'. This is like 'take two asprins and call me in the morning: 95% of all tube amp problems can be fixed by this (retube, not asprins).

If you have to do the warantee route, KEEP YOUR NEW TUBES. The preamp tubes are fine, but the power tubes may be damaged. Wait for what Crate tells you before you use them. This is if you are cheap. I would pitch all of the tubes and consider the 70 bucks as my cheap attempt to bet I am in the 95% solution number (tubes are the cause). Otherwise, the repair will cost shipping at a minumum. Dont you love it: tube amps are expensive and require someone with deep pockets to enjoy the tone. But what can we do: tubes DO sound better and when everything is working, they perform reasonably well.

Good luck on this!
-mike

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