Question about Estate EGD4300TQ Gas Dryer
Posted by Anonymous on
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 26, 2008
when you say heat up is it at least getting warm...
you may have a igniter gone bad or your thermostat may have failed... your igniter is what has to ignite the gas to burn to make it hot. If its electric then your heating coil has failed and needs to be replaced
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
SOURCE: Dryer ran all night now no heat
Remove back of dryer and take out the elament shield and replace element don't over strech it start at one side and work it around thank you for useing fixya rate me
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
If your dryer never quits on its own, then your main selection switch may be bad. Even if the clothes don't dry, the timer should still only run to the end of the cycle and then stop. The problem with the lack of heat could also be caused by a bad timer switch, but that is rare. Usually it is caused by a bad igniter/heat sensor unit. Sometimes you can use a piece of sandpaper and clean the carbon off of the sensor and then it will sense heat when the pilot flame starts, then it will let the gas valve send gas to the main burner. The heat sensor it the part that is in the flame of the pilot light.
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
SOURCE: dryer won't heat
If your dryer still runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.
Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 18, 2014 | Estate Dryer Model Egd4300tq0 Thermal Fuse
Dec 02, 2013 | Estate TEDS840JQ Electric Dryer
Dec 01, 2012 | Estate EGD4400SQ Gas Dryer
Sep 16, 2011 | Dryers
Feb 10, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers
Jan 18, 2011 | Estate EED4100SQ Electric Dryer
Nov 25, 2010 | Estate TGDX640JQ Gas Dryer
Aug 14, 2010 | Estate TGDS840JQ Gas Dryer
May 31, 2017 | Estate Dryers
May 01, 2017 | Estate EED4300SQ Dryer
127 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: