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The 12/3 cord you mention is 12-gauge, that should be OK. The thing to avoid is power loss over distance which will make the motor work harder -- there are appliance cords which uses a stranded wire that reduce voltage loss due to induction.
If the saw is tripping breakers, either you are trying to run the saw on a circuit that can't handle the amps the saw needs to run or something is wrong with the saw that is making it draw more amps than it should. Power supply: You should be on a 15 amp circuit or higher for this saw. Popping breakers can also be caused by using long or low guage extension cords or a low guage power cord on the saw. The saw should have a 14 guage power cord on it and extension cords should not be lower than 12 guage if 50 feet long. Saw: You've already replaced the cord & switch, if the brushes are OK, look to the mechanics of the saw. The blade should turn freely and smoothly by hand with the saw unplugged. Things to look for are a lack of lubrication in the transmission, binding or broken gears in the trans and binding or seized bearings on the armature or worm gear set. Also, a dull blade forced through wood will also cause the saw to be overworked and draw enough power to trip breakers.
Overheating can be caused by: - running the saw on a long, low-guage extension cord or with a damaged power cord. Eliminate extension cords or replace with heavier cords, at least 12 guage or better. Replace power cord if damaged. - too much "stuff" packed in and around the armature and field so air cannot curculate and cool the tool. Blow out the body. - broken, worn or seized armature bearings. Check/replace if needed. - broken, worn or seized transmission and blade arbor bearings, usually caused by low or no oil in trans case, check and replace as needed.
Are you operating the saw on a 10 amp circuit or with a long extension cord? Table saws need at least a 15 amp circuit and should not be used with an extension cord. If absolutely necessary the extension cord should be no less than 12 guage. Tabel saws will run OK on a 10 amp circuit but as soon as you apply a load (try to cut wood) the power requirements go up to keep the saw turning. If you can, plug it into another outlet on a higher capacity circuit breaker or at least closer to the breaker box. If it still pops the breaker you may have bearing problems in the motor that are creating too much friction. This would make the motor work harder to turn so it would draw excessive power and trip the breaker.
Use a heavy guage extension cord and plug it into a GFCI if you have one outside your house. If no GFCI installed on house, buy a portable one at a hardware store.
The amp draw is on the nameplate on the saw. If it reads 10 amps, for example, you'll need a 16 guage extension cord. If it pulls more than 10 amps, you should use a 14 guage extension cord.
All electric motor compressors have a reset switch somewhere on them, usually on the motor itself. Look for a small, usually white button, sometimes with a number on it. If its tripped the button will stick out, push it in to reset it.
Air compressors need a fair amount of amps to run and the requirement rises as the tank fill because the motor is working against the pressure in the tank. A rule of thumb is: always run longer air lines, NEVER use extension cords. If it is absolutely necessary to run an extension cord, make sure it's a 12 guage cord or larger, no more than 50 feet long.
First inspect the plug blades. If they are dirty, black, melted or corroded, there's your problem. replace BOTH the plug and the receptacle.
Then ensure your power is adequate, a 100' 12 gauge extension cord will blow out a air conditioner in oh, right about two hours.. Use less than 50' for small, and 100' for 12 (heavy guage) extension cords.
Third, maybe your start/run capacitor is toasted from any or all of the above. Discharge safely and replace the inexpensive capacitor from an online source or a local appliance service shop.
I would recomend you purchase a "heavy duty" (12 guage) short extension cord for appliances. You could remove the face cover and modify the unit so the cord goes up but I don't think it will be much longer nor will it be as safe. The cord has a moulded gromet mad onto it so you may only be able to move it to the side. You would have to make a similar mount on the unit (cutting metal and plastic parts to hold the cord properly. The short HD cord will not cause any loss in the units operation,warranty or unit life.
For about $20.00 you can buy 50 feet of 12 guage 3 wire yellow extention cord. You will then get all the amps you need to run your unit. If it still fails, you have a problem inside the tiller.
Tom MN
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