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My 10 spd rear derailleur does not shift into small cog. With chain off I can manually move der. to small cog position then using the shift lever shift to large cob posision (9 clicks). But when shifting to small cog I can only get 7 or 8 clicks then nothing.

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Sounds like you need to check you cable tension. If the limits are set correctly and the derailleur spans the cassette range, then the cable tension is incorrect to make all the necessary click stops. If the cable tension is correct then you may have problem with the shifter or you are routing the cable through the rear derailleur incorrectly.

Without knowing what specific components you are using it is impossible to be of more help, sorry.

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

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Triple to double crankset, problem with left shifter-shimano ultegra


Derailleurs have a return spring in them that will always return them to the smaller cog (whether it is front or rear). The derailleur cable resists this spring tension. If your front der. is on the large ring and will not shift to a smaller ring then it could be a couple things. First, too much cable tension preventing the spring from returning the derailleur to a smaller cog. Second, you low limit screw is set too far in so the derailleur cannot travel back to a lower gear. This will be evident if you shift to a smaller cog, the derailleur does not move and the cable becomes slack. Third, something else is preventing the derailleur from moving, perhaps the derailleur was moved when installing the new crankset and it is getting hung up on a tooth of the large chainring, there could be some foreign matter lodged in the derailleur spring preventing it from operating, the spring could have broken so there is no longer enough tension to move the derailleur back to it's "home" position. Good luck.

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I'm new to multi gear bikes..whats the reason for the 6 gear positions on the right and 3 gear positions on the left hand side


Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Gears .

I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Cannot get rear derailer to work properly 24 inch girls evolution


Don't start messing with the derailleur yet! Make sure your shifting trouble isn't due to something else, such as a warped, dirty, or stretched chain, gummed-up pulleys, crud in the cable housing, trapped cable, or a bent derailleur hanger
Clean the chain and the rear derailleur pulleys. Pull the chain away from each pulley, and turn the pulley to make sure it can move freely. A pulley that offers resistance to turning must be replaced.
Now check the cable to be sure it slides freely. Mud and grit within the cable housing, or on a cable-guide, can keep the derailleur from moving a "full gear" during downshifts. If the cable doesn't slide freely in the housing, you may be able to clean or lube it to restore smooth shifting.
Let the high-gear limit screw. In your highest gear on the shifter, and with the chain on the smallest cog, position the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the small cog. Run the chain a bit with the front derailleur in the large ring, adjusting the limit screw until the pulley and the cog seem to match perfectly.

Setting the high-gear (small cog) limiting screw.



Once you're sure the derailleur matches the cog, move it just a whisker (1/8 to 1/4 turn) towards the other cogs. (You may need to readjust a bit if you get chain-skip.)

Closeup of setting the limiting screw.



Now adjust the low-gear limit screw. Shift into the lowest gear (largest cog). If it won't go, loosen the limit screw. With the chain on the largest cog (and the front derailleur in the small chainring), adjust the derailleur so the upper pulley exactly matches the teeth of the large cog.Once it's perfect, turn the limit screw so it moves the derailleur a tiny amount towards the other cogs (1/8 to 1/4 turn usually works).

Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



Now shift to the highest gear (smallest cog). Push the shift lever to downshift one gear (go from the smallest cog to the next-smallest). If it doesn't shift, tighten the cable with the barrel adjuster, 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. Backshift and try again. Continue tightening until it shifts. If it overshifts, going from the smallest cog to the third-smallest, loosen the cable by turning 1/2 turn clockwise. Backshift and repeat until it shifts exactly from the small to the next-smallest cog.

Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





Now go to the second-smallest ring. Tighten or loosen the cable slightly, until the outer side plates of the chain are just clearing the third-smallest cog. Shift up and down, fine-tuning until you're satisfied.

Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





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1 Answer

My chain occasionally comes loose when I hit a bump. How can I make adjustments to prevent the chain from coming loose. I have a Shimano tourr.ey gear mechanism. If I could obtain the instruction manual...


For the wide range of gearing on a MTB, the rear derailleur has to be able to adjust a large amount. If you shift into the smallest front chainwheel and the smallest cog on the rear (position 1), you'll probably see the chain is very loose and the rear derailleur is pointed back horizontally. Conversely, if in the largest front chainwheel and the largest rear cog, the derailleur will be pointed forward (position 2)
Couple things to do: 1) Avoid the gearing combination of the smallest cogs. Instead, use the middle chain ring and a larger cog (you'll have the same net gear ratio). 2) You can remove a link from the chain. A chain tool is about $10.00. You push the pin out through all but the last plate on two links, bend the chain slightly to pop those 2 links out (2 links = a wide link + a narrow link), then put the chain back together. This is only advisable if in position 2 there is some additional travel for the derailleur and in position 1, the derailleur has no additional travel. 3) Make sure your chainrings aren't bent, straighten (use a open-end wrench and gently pull the chain ring back to flat). This isn't likely b/c you don't indicate the chain falls off while shifting. 4). If the chain falls of the inside, screw in about 1/4 turn the inner limit screw on the front deraillleur. If the chain falls off the outside, screw in about 1/4 to 1/2 turn the outer limit screw on the front derailleur.

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You have a 21 spd and you have two derailleurs, one front and one rear. To shift you must always be pedalling forward, not backwards or you can chip teeth on your chainrings and cog. To shift, remember left hand controls front, brake and derailleur, the front derailleur is what gives you the ranges, gears closest to the bike are the easiest, so, small ring it the front are your easiest range, middle, mid range, large hardest but fastest. It is best to remember that it is the number of teeth that are hitting the chain to give you the speed you want. Rear Derailleur is your fine tuner the largest is the easiest, same as above. NOW DO NOT KITTY CORNER YOUR CHAIN, SUCH AS LARGE COG IN REAR TO LARGE IN FRONT CHAIN WHEEL, AND DO NOT USE SMALL IN REAR TO SMALL IN FRONT CHAINWHEEL. The reason you do not do that is: you can stretch your chain, yes you can stretch your chain and it serves no purpose, if you are pedalling to easy change your range(front). I hope this helps you understand how to shift now. You may contact me for any further questions, I have been in business for 38+ years

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1 Answer

My shimno sora front derailler shifts perfectly to the small and large chain set cogs, but on the middle, the chain rubs along the cage.


Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.

i hope this helps
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1 Answer

Problem with chain and gears


Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
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3 Answers

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There should be one or two limiting screws for the front derailleur that you can use to adjust how far out/in the derailleur moves to shift the chain over. You can ask a friend to lift the back end of the bike off the ground while you do the adjusting of these screws and then try shifting the gear while moving the peddles with your other hand.

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It sounds like the limit screws on your derailleur body are out of adjustment. They are usually small phillips head screws on the body of the front and rear derailleur that limit the travel of the derailleur body on the rear so that the chain cannot get shifted into the spokes or off the smallest cog into the frame. On the front they prevent the chain from shifting off the inside or outside cogs. There are good articles under front and rear derailleur adjustments at this site:http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=53 I hope this helps.

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2 Answers

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Try this first:
Shift into the little ring and release the cable. Pull it tight (with pliers) and re-tighten the cable. It should shift now. If it doesn't, the solution is a little time consuming, so i apologize in advance.
First, flip your bike onto the bars and saddle. Now shift into the small chainring and your lowest cassette cog (the largest in number of teeth). Release the cable from the front derailleur and set the adjustment knob for the front derailleur to its center point. You should find it on your down tube. Now adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur while turning the crank so that its stop sets it in a position where it just skims the chain but does not touch it. Now pull the cable taut and re-clamp the cable. Shift into the middle ring and shift the rear derailleur to its highest and lowest gears, making sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur. If it does rub (it will be in either the lowest or highest cog on the cassette), adjust the front derailleur by way of the adjustment knob to clear the rub. Then shift into the big ring and you should have no problem. Set the "H" stop if necessary.

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