Question about GE Washing Machines
Throw it away and buy another, the transmission will need replacement and the parts alone are over 200.00.. Its not something you could replace easily. Requires special tools and is not easy.
Posted on Mar 26, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
the loading door, place your hand on top of the agitator and turn
clockwise then counter clockwise. If agitator turns freely in both
directions and tub sits motionless either your agitator or the
coupling that holds it to the transmission will need replaced.
Usually it is the coupling but it's easy to tell by removing the
agitator and performing same turning procedure on it. If it spins
freely it is no good.
remove the agitator firmly grasp the neck of it with both hands and
yank straight up. Inspect the inside of the agitator, the ribs inside
can take quite a beating but once they are badly flattened or in some
cases nearly completely shaved away then it will have to be replaced.
Last I knew this was the style GE now recommends for that machine:
you see signs of oil say, "Uh-oh." But continue anyway all
is not lost.
Next you need to see if the coupler will spin
(the most likely cause.) If it spins freely say, "Yea!"
because that's one of the cheapest easiest repairs on this machine.
That should be a 7/16 bolt that will need to be removed. I use a 1/4"
ratchet and socket (No extension) or box end wrench and they usually
give no trouble. But they are usually rusty so don't mess around with
it. With your right hand apply firm downward pressure on top of the
ratchet with the handle at nine oclock. Give it a nice firm bump with
your left hand and it should break loose and usually spins right out.
If it crumbles under the socket you'll have to use vice grips; no
worries, a new bolt will come with part: WH49X10042.
With nothing to hold it the coupling will slide right off. If
removing because it spun, toss it in the trash, it is not recyclable.
Now you can see the top of your washer's
transmission--remember the "Uh-oh?" If you saw a dark film
of oil it came from here. But even if you didn't see oil reach down
and grasp the splined part and see if it will wiggle back and forth.
There should be no wiggle. If you look at the spline part you will
see it goes into a slightly larger shaft. Right where it goes in
there is a gasket that is not replaceable. If there is oil around it,
or if you can see a gap in it, or if the spliny part wiggles side to
side the transmission is shot. You can buy them NEW on ebay for $150
and less usually. Part number is: WH38X10002.
It is not an easy job but if you've got tools and patience there is
no reason i couldn't walk you through it.
let's say your transmission looks fine and you just want to put that
coupler back on and be done with it. Before replacing the coupler it
is very important to clean the splines (little grooves) of the part
it fits over really well. Each groove will have a plastic spline from
the old coupler embedded in it. A wire brush or pocket screwdriver
works well; they come out easy just make sure you get them all. Once
you are satisfied the splines are nice and clean cover them with a
thin layer of petroleum jelly. Place the new coupler on top and give
it a twist to feel the splines line up then push down to seat it.
Sometimes they seat pretty easy, sometimes not. Sometimes you have to
screw in the bolt to get it that last little bit. I've even had to
use a succession of longer to shorter bolts to seat them. Regardless,
the cleaner you get the splines on the transmission the easier it
will be to seat the coupler into place. Tighten the bolt by reversing
the procedure to loosen. Place left hand firmly over the ratchet or
wrench with handle at three oclock and snug it up then bump it good
and hard with your right hand a couple of times. Clean any debris on
the bottom of the tub now. Then pick up the agitator and place it
over the coupler, but first notice the coupler has twin grooves
evenly spaced along it's sides. Likewise the agitator has ridges that
fit into the grooves of the coupler. Under each fin of the agitator
is a set of ridges, so line a fin of the agitator up with the grooves
of the coupler and try to seat the agitator. You will meet resistance
if they aren't lined up so just keep trying it will practically fall
into place when it's right. You will know when it is seated properly
but give it a slight tug upwards just to verify, if it stays in place
you are done.
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