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Re: My 23 hp kohler courage engine starts and runs for...
It sounds like the jet is dirty in the carburetor. Remove the float bowl and in the center there should be a jet that you can remove and clean. There are small holes on the side of it which you can clean with a thin piece of wire. Clean the center hole also.
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sounds like a fuel problem. im guessing a fuel filter or possibly the carburetor is clogged. you may need to take the carburetor off and clean it real good . put a new needle and seat in it. they are cheap. there are many videos to show you how to do this on you tube. good luck
Won't start. In storage empty18 mths. Replaced oil, filter, fuel filter, spark plug, New battery. Fresh gas w/stblzr. Engine cranks but won't turn over.
Without the exact engine model, I am not sure which Kohler 19 HP you have. There are different models including single cylinder with fuel pump, single cylinder without fuel pump, and multiple versions of the twin cylinder. Therefore, some parts of this answer include generalizations which may or may not be applicable.
Sooo, with the new battery the starter motor does crank the engine; the engine turns over. This informs us that the engine/bearings, has or have, not frozen up while in storage. However, I believe you are indicating that the engine does not fire up and begin running; it won't start and it won't run.
We know the machine has been in storage 18 months. Was the machine completely emptied of fuel, tank and carburetor, prior to long term storage? That is the question of the day.
I am going to assume the machine was running fine the last time it was used; prior to parking it in storage. That means we are assuming there are no mechanical problems with the engine. I am going to assume, with the installation of new plugs, you checked for spark and all is good in that area. This really leaves us with a fuel system problem.
A mechanically functional (meaning all the internal parts are working, i.e. pistons, valves, etc) engine requires 3 things all at the right time, air under pressure (yes they call that compression), fuel, spark. So the quickest way to start your diagnostics is to remove the cover over the air filter and then remove the air filter. I do not recommend spraying Quick Start.
remove air filter (set it aside for the rest of the diagnostics)
put throttle on fast run (do not choke)
pour an ounce or two (a shot glass, not ½ a beer) of fresh gas into the carburetor
crank engine (15 to 20 seconds, rest to cool the starter, repeat 3-4 times if it does not fire at first).
Removing the air filter and placing the throttle at full speed, with no choke, eliminates the "air intake" question for now. Dumping in the fuel bypasses the fuel related question.
·If the engine fires and runs a bit, then dies, you may have eliminated the spark question and you need to track down any fuel problems.
·If the engine does not fire you likely must tract down a Spark problem.
I understand that you filled the tank with fresh fuel.That is step one, of 7-10 possible steps for getting fuel to the engine. Which brings us tooo..
Tracking down fuel problems.
Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling. Was your tank clean and dry?
Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric.
This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (look at the filter before removing it, it should look ¾ full of fuel. If it's not that's a clue to fuel flow problems.) If gas does not pour out remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank.
Do yourself a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area. After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, reinstall your FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor
Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs are almost identical. This includes most single cylinder engines with fuel pumps. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAUZUPoopSI
Note: My engine was starting hard and dying in the field this year (March 2015). While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
Note: If your engine has a vacuum operated fuel pump it requires crankcase vacuum to drive it. A Reed Valve creates this vacuum. If your reed valve is stuck, broken, or just worn out you will not have a functional fuel pump; even if you buy a new one. If your fuel pump is not working, you must verify crankcase vacuum before buying a new pump.
Most, if not all, fuel systems now have a Fuel Shut Off Solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (with two wires running to it). The fuel shut off solenoid's main function is to stop fuel from flowing into the carburetor. It does this for various reasons
You turn the key off.
You put the mower in reverse while the blades are turning.
You blow the main fuse due to electrical malfunctions.
Diagnosing the Fuel Shut Off valve:
Assuming the battery is good and fully charged
Assuming the Key Switch is working.
When you sit in the seat and turn the key, one click from off to run, you will hear a faint click. That faint click is the fuel shut off valve under the carburetor. It is turning on and off when you cycle the key from off to run. If you hear this click your fuel solenoid is functioning electronically. It could still be experiencing issues inside the carburetor. Perhaps there is some varnish, silt or other trash keeping it from working. If this solenoid is not working, you will get no fuel into the carburetor, even if the pump is working. This will require a physical examination of the solenoid and perhaps the entire carburetor.
The following is an "out of carburetor" electrical check up.
Remove the Solenoid.
Connect one jumper wire from a terminal to the positive battery post.
Connect a second wire from a terminal to the negative battery post. The solenoid should retract.
Remove one jumper; the solenoid should spring back out.
If none of this solves your fuel problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, soak overnight in carb cleaner, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl or jets. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and find all kinds of built up gunk. This saves the hassle of a complete carb removal, sometimes.
What else could make the Fuel Cut Off malfunction??
Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.
Bad gas. Drain gas and refill with fresh gas with Stabil. Old oil. Drain oil fill with fresh 30w oil, 16-18oz. Clean air filter and spark plug.. Relpace air filter if dirty. Saving $$$ on this simple tune up is not intelligent.
Are you pulling the plug to check for wetness after cranking it a few times, WITHOUT using the starting fluid? Also, I would recommend using carb cleaner in place of the starting fluid. Starting fluid runs the engine VERY hot for a brief time and can possibly damage rings, valves, and aluminum parts.
I guess this is the twin cylinder Courage engine, the symptoms you are talking about leads me to believe it is only running on one cylinder, this is why it has no power, and it is dumping fuel from the cylinder that is not running into the silencer which is then burns and increases the silencer tempreture. There are many reasons why it is only running on one cylinder, carboned spark plug, faulty ignition unit, burnt valves, bad pition, worn bore, i think your best line of approach is to fit new plugs, new air filter, check the fuel flow from the fuel pump situated somwhere on the engine, if that all fails get the local dealer to do a leak down test on the engine, this will give you a good idea of what the engine condition is like.
ALWAYS CHECK THE POINTS!!! 20 years operating this engine and you'd think I would know better. The points were severely pitted. Spec said .020 but actual is .013. The cold weather had me suspecting a carb problem. DOH!