Question about Kenmore 93142 Gas Dryer
Run it with the vent off if you feel some heat for the first minute and the airflow is strong you best bet is to change the valve coils.The vent is not a part in the dryer the vent is was connects to the back of the dryer pull the vent off and run the dryer to test.
The coils are on the top of the gas valve.
Gas dryer with no heat: The parts that I have pointed out with the arrows are the parts that you will need to check with an ohm meter if the dryer is not heating. First check and see if you have 110 volts coming to the gas valve at this type of a connector. If you have voltage, then unplug the dryer and check the parts I have pointed to. Some dryers have 3 coils instead of the 2 shown here. If you do not have voltage coming to the burner, then you will need to check the timer contacts that feed the gas burner, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostats, the safety switch on the motor, and any other point that you can see on your wiring diagram picture that feeds voltage to the burner. The coils on the gas valve are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting. If you find a open circuit on one of the gas coils, replace them all = less problems later on. If the glow coil does not work ( get red ), check it with a ohm meter for continuity. The next thing to check if the glow coil does not come on would be the radiant sensor. Inspect the igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter wire plug when dryer should be calling for heat. Sometimes the ( older style ) igniter is separate from the holder and the holder can no longer hold the igniter tight enough and the two parts burn/arcwhere they touch each other = new igniter and holder ( some manufactures have new kits to replace these older style parts ).
Does the igniter get red and stay red, or does it get red, you hear a click and it goes off, then a minute later its gets red again?....if so you possibly have a bad set of coil valves. If the igniter gets red and stays red constantly then its the flame switch that is bad and maybe welded closed.
Check out, this possibilities.This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Mar 25, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Tumble Dryer not drying clothes
the problem could be several different things. first remove the front panel and see if the globar glows. if it doesn't check it for cracks and replace if needed. if it glows, replace your gas coils, they are usually the problem
Posted on Nov 01, 2007
Hi, First thing you need to check is the vent that goes outside. Make sure it is not pinched or plugged in any way. If it is an electric dry, you can try one load without the vent if it is in a ventilated area so that you don't get a lot of humifity.
Please let me know if I have helped or if I can be of more assitance.
Posted on May 14, 2009
SOURCE: dryer working but no heat
Your dryer has two separate fuses, one to turn the drum, and one to heat it. It sounds like you have a broken fuse. Unless this is a new installation, then you need to make sure you have the proper electric cord attached. If it's mistakenly connected with a range cord, it won't supply enough power to the dryer.
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: no heat in dryer.
First, I assume that the drum spins OK but there is no heat. Many things can cause this. From the most likely cause to the least likely:
1) An open thermal fuse. This is a small "thermostat" with 2 wires at the middle/top of the heater "box" (a tall narrow box on right in the back of the machine), or a plastic type on the duct close to the blower, depending on the model. You will need to remove the back cover of the machine to see these. Check with an ohm meter after disconnecting one of the leads, or jumper the 2 wires together to see if heater works (don't use this way though, fire hazard... replace the device) If this proves to be the cause of the problem, it would be wise to check all ducts and blower for excessive lint buildup. This will reduce air flow, causing overheating and blown thermal fuses.
2) A burned out heating element. Remove tall box on right, element slides out from the bottom together with the "carrier". Look for broken coil, or check 2 terminals at bottom with ohm meter.
3) Burned wires at connectors. Check for obviously overheated wire terminals at all sensors (thermostats and thermal fuses in back), heater box, main terminals where power cord hooks up, etc.
4) Bad thermostats. There are usually 2 or more. A high limit on heater box, just above terminals on the bottom. 1 or 2 will be on the duct next to the blower. Check these with an ohm meter (or continuity checker). Some have 4 terminals, the extra 2 small terminals are small heaters inside the thermostats which alter it's temperature characteristics. These will usually read around 4000 ohms or so. Check the 2 main largest terminals for continuity.
5) Only getting 110 volts: This is often overlooked, but if for some reason one of the poles feeding the 220 power from the house wiring is open but the other is OK (for example, houses with fuses where only one fuse is blown, or a bad circuit breaker with one pole open). The motor and timer run on 110. If the side of the 220 line that feeds the motor is OK but the other one is open the motor will run but the heater, which needs 220 will not heat. Check for 220 volts between the 2 outer terminals where power cord connects or between the 2 "hot" terminals of the 220 outlet the dryer is plugged into.
6) Bad centrifugal switch in motor. This is what actually turns the heater on, for safety reasons, so the heater cannot come on unless the fan is spinning. Otherwise without air flow past it, the heater would burn out.
There are 2 large gauge (usually red or yellow) wires going to the connector on the motor, these go to the contacts inside the motor that turn the heater on.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
or bad solonoids on your gas vale
check your lint filter
and exhaust outside to be clear of cloggs with good airflow while running
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
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