Question about Sony SDM-E76D 17" LCD Monitor

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My sony tft sdm e76d lcd moniter backlight switches off after a few seconds.if i switch it off and on again it does the same thing.

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It may have pwoer supply, backlights inverter, bad lamp assemblies problem, you need to open it up.
If you are going to DIY and already try the monitor with another PC, and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed SONY monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/

Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.

Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My sony tft sdm e76d lcd monitor backlight swiches off after a few seconds. if i switch itoff and on again it does the same ting and the power light flashes green and orange


This happened to me and my Sony SDM S204, and I fixed it, so read on! Switch on... green LED for a couple of seconds, Brief flash of light with display working, then total shutdown. Switch off, repeat but press the front panel power button as soon as the green LED comes on and it goes into standby (red LED) and stays there. This proved to be a weak power supply problem, fixed by replacing dried-up electrolytic capacitors (very common problem on any elderly
TFT monitor). Hopefully it's the same for you, but if you have a different problem, like no sign of life at all, some of this may still prove useful to you.

Getting into the case is tricky. Remove the stand (4 scerws) and all seven other visible screws on the rear. Using a "spudger" (plastic blade for prizing cases apart) or similar object (or a knife if you don't mind causing cosmetic damage to the case)prize the bezel from the back cover. It's got lots of snap-fit latches every 3 inches or so so it's a pain. I used several thin metal plates in the gap as I went to stop it snapping shut again. Be careful around the front panel button area because you could damage the wires, though they are not as delicate as the flat film cables found in Dell monitors! With the bezel separated the plastic back panel is still firmly held on by the four annoying plastic tabs along each of the two sides. I overcame these by wedging metal plates next to them to prize the sides sufficiently apart from the metal internals to pass the tabs, then laid the monitor face down standing off them so the internals and bezel could drop downwards out of the case back. That's the hard bit over!
The metal back cover can now be removed (7 silver screws - not the two below the video connectors. Disconnect all the wires form the power supply board with care. The one to the main board un-clips from the main board and not form the PSU board. Don't just pull it. The wire to the power switch comes out easily if the PSU board is lifted a bit first (3 yellowish screws). The backlight cables top and bottom are held on with white gunk - just pull them off without straining the wires unduly.
The main clear plastic cover can be peeled off the board for access to the components. In my case I found nothing obviously wrong - the fuse was good, and no sign of any burning, so I began to systematically remove each electrolytic capacitor in turn and test it with the capacitance setting on my multimeter. All of the solitary ones were fine, reading within a few% of the value on the can so put them back (the right way round!!!!). However, three of the ones in the bank of six (470uF,35V) were reading significantly higher than the other three, 490-510uF, so I replaced them with new. Put the clear plastic safety cover back on, using double-sided tape on the bits where the clue had dried out. DON'T POWER UP WITHOUT IT! Fit back onto the monitor and reconnect everything with care not to bend any pins in the board-mounted connectors. Refit the three yellowy screws.
With the monitor screen side up it's safe to plug in the power lead and turn it on. First time I did it, the thing still didn't work! I disconnected power and checked all the connectors again. One of the backlight connectors wasn't quite straight and it turned out I'd bent a pin. Straightened it, reconnected, BINGO!

If you started with a completely dead monitor it's likely the fuse is blown and possibly some other stuff as well. The best approach for a PSU non-expert (like me) is to get hold of a working one and just look for differences between the two side by side on the bench with a meter (Not powered up of course!) I don't know this particular supply but look out for burnt resistor R019 (hidden in heatshrink but should be 0.39 ohms), also look for short circuits across FETs, replace any obviously charred items and check the rectifier and diodes with the diode check function of the meter. Good luck, and ALWAYS be safe around electricity!

Chris Colborne 13/2/15

Sep 16, 2012 | Sony SDM-E76D 17" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

MY SONY TFT SDM-E76D LCD MONITOR COMES ON AND BACK OFF STRAIGHT AWAY WHATS THE PROBLEM


This happened to me and my Sony SDM S204, and I fixed it, so read on! Switch on... green LED for a couple of seconds, Brief flash of light with display working, then total shutdown. Switch off, repeat but press the front panel power button as soon as the green LED comes on and it goes into standby (red LED) and stays there. This proved to be a weak power supply problem, fixed by replacing dried-up electrolytic capacitors (very common problem on any elderly TFT monitor). Hopefully it's the same for you, but if you have a different problem, like no sign of life at all, some of this may still prove useful to you. Getting into the case is tricky. Remove the stand (4 scerws) and all seven other visible screws on the rear. Using a "spudger" (plastic blade for prizing cases apart) or similar object (or a knife if you don't mind causing cosmetic damage to the case)prize the bezel from the back cover. It's got lots of snap-fit latches every 3 inches or so so it's a pain. I used several thin metal plates in the gap as I went to stop it snapping shut again. Be careful around the front panel button area because you could damage the wires, though they are not as delicate as the flat film cables found in Dell monitors! With the bezel separated the plastic back panel is still firmly held on by the four annoying plastic tabs along each of the two sides. I overcame these by wedging metal plates next to them to prize the sides sufficiently apart from the metal internals to pass the tabs, then laid the monitor face down standing off them so the internals and bezel could drop downwards out of the case back. That's the hard bit over! The metal back cover can now be removed (7 silver screws - not the two below the video connectors. Disconnect all the wires form the power supply board with care. The one to the main board un-clips from the main board and not form the PSU board. Don't just pull it. The wire to the power switch comes out easily if the PSU board is lifted a bit first (3 yellowish screws). The backlight cables top and bottom are held on with white gunk - just pull them off without straining the wires unduly. The main clear plastic cover can be peeled off the board for access to the components. In my case I found nothing obviously wrong - the fuse was good, and no sign of any burning, so I began to systematically remove each electrolytic capacitor in turn and test it with the capacitance setting on my multimeter. All of the solitary ones were fine, reading within a few% of the value on the can so put them back (the right way round!!!!). However, three of the ones in the bank of six (470uF,35V) were reading significantly higher than the other three, 490-510uF, so I replaced them with new. Put the clear plastic safety cover back on, using double-sided tape on the bits where the clue had dried out. DON'T POWER UP WITHOUT IT! Fit back onto the monitor and reconnect everything with care not to bend any pins in the board-mounted connectors. Refit the three yellowy screws. With the monitor screen side up it's safe to plug in the power lead and turn it on. First time I did it, the thing still didn't work! I disconnected power and checked all the connectors again. One of the backlight connectors wasn't quite straight and it turned out I'd bent a pin. Straightened it, reconnected, BINGO! If you started with a completely dead monitor it's likely the fuse is blown and possibly some other stuff as well. The best approach for a PSU non-expert (like me) is to get hold of a working one and just look for differences between the two side by side on the bench with a meter (Not powered up of course!) I don't know this particular supply but look out for burnt resistor R019 (hidden in heatshrink but should be 0.39 ohms), also look for short circuits across FETs, replace any obviously charred items and check the rectifier and diodes with the diode check function of the meter. Good luck, and ALWAYS be safe around electricity! Chris Colborne 13/2/15

Sep 16, 2012 | Sony SDM-E76D 17" LCD Monitor

1 Answer

No input signal, go to power save sony sdm-hs93


I f you see the message on the screen indicating 'NO INPUR SIGNAL', you need to check the VGA cable and both ends of the connectors also. Try this monitor with other PC also.

This SDM-HS73/93 have common problem: bad backlight assemblies due to poor workmanship in sodlering works, see my pictures below. You should also inspect the caps. This is not recommend for DIY.

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Sony%20SDM-HS93/

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Sony%20SDM-HS73/

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/Sony%20SDM-HS73/

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Sounds like you need a new backlight. Check lcdparts.net

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Took the cable connecting the monitor to the computer and reversed it, this seems to have worked!

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ASHOK MY CELL NO.09322133048
email.ashoksharma4@gmail.com

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