Question about Kenmore 62622 Electric Dryer

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I need wiring diagram for heating element for Kenmore dryer model # 110.86982100.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: replacing the heating element Kenmore dryer 110 64892

nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: WIRING DIAGRAM

The manufacturer normally places a wiring diagram inside the operator console. Remove the back panel and there should be a diagram taped inside. Some of these diagrams will show two circuits. One is for a gas dryer, and one is for an electric dryer. Make sure you reference the correct one. I hope this helps you. If you need further assistance please let me know.

Posted on Aug 15, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110

I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?

I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.

What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?

Posted on Sep 16, 2008

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.

Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.

There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.

A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.

If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.

Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.

Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.

In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.

If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: Hello, I've got a Kenmore 80 series dryer Model:

Check for lint clogging first. Pull the unit away from the wall and look to see if there is an excessive build up of lint at or near the discharge vent or into the vent line. Clean as needed. If it's really clogged you may have to remove the back cover.

If no joy, then check for a bad thermostat. There should be two. They are located on the discharge vent near the dryer exhaust blower. You will have to remove the back cover of the dryer to get to them. Check the stats for continuity. MAKE SURE the power is off before working on the dryer.

It's much more likely to be on of the two items listed above, but if the dryer isn't clogged and the stats are both good, check the heating element.

Posted on Aug 20, 2010

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Here is the Sears parts site with diagrams and parts listings, look at the Bulkheads parts diagram:
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My Lady Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care electric dryer model #86692100 abruptly stopped heating. Fuses are okay and venting is fine. Need troubleshooting information


Hi.

Test the heating element and the thermostat.

Both are tested using a multimeter to read impedance. Set multimeter at Rx1, on Ohms.

To test the element disconnect element and point tester probes at element contact.
If there is no continuity, and the circuit is open, then the element is faulty.

The thermostat can be tested jumping its wires to bypass it, but there are many safety concerns doing this kind of test.
Better disconnecting the thermostat and reading Ohms, as for the element.
At room temp the thermostat must have low impedance, if it goes to infinity, and circuit is open at room temperature, then the thermostat is bad.

If both test good, and you have no heating at all, then it may be a bad electronic control, or a wiring problem.

The model number you gave does not match.

Try Entering correct model number on this website to get parts and diagrams.

Regards.

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My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


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I NEED OWNERS MANUAL TO KENMORE DRYER


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