Question about Kenmore 62622 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
nestor, on the posted model, you want to drop the lower front panel. Take a puddy knife and push in on the clips on each side and it will pull off. Kill the power to the dryer. On the right you will see the heater housing. The housing will have a front deflector. You can remove that deflector by removing the screw on the bottom or simply just bend it down out of the way. Remove the 2 wires on the left that attach to the element itself. On the left side of the housing there will be a quarter inch screw that holds the element in place. Use a small socket set to get it off. Now the element will pull right out of the housing. Sometimes they are difficult to pull out but it will come out. Did you ohm out that element to make sure that was the culprit? Catriver.
Posted on Dec 09, 2007
SOURCE: WIRING DIAGRAM
The manufacturer normally places a wiring diagram inside the operator console. Remove the back panel and there should be a diagram taped inside. Some of these diagrams will show two circuits. One is for a gas dryer, and one is for an electric dryer. Make sure you reference the correct one. I hope this helps you. If you need further assistance please let me know.
Posted on Aug 15, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?
I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.
What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.
There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.
A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.
Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.
Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.
In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.
If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
Check for lint clogging first. Pull the unit away from the wall and look to see if there is an excessive build up of lint at or near the discharge vent or into the vent line. Clean as needed. If it's really clogged you may have to remove the back cover.
If no joy, then check for a bad thermostat. There should be two. They are located on the discharge vent near the dryer exhaust blower. You will have to remove the back cover of the dryer to get to them. Check the stats for continuity. MAKE SURE the power is off before working on the dryer.
It's much more likely to be on of the two items listed above, but if the dryer isn't clogged and the stats are both good, check the heating element.
Posted on Aug 20, 2010
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