Question about Frigidaire FEQ1442ES Electric Dryer

1 Answer

While changing the interior light in the dryer the socket wire came into contact with the metal on the inside. there was a loud pop and it tripped the house breaker and left a large scorch mark where it contacted. after cleaning it all up and replacing the bulb... the light works just fine but when i go to turn on the dryer it makes a clicking sound like it wants to start, but it wont. any ideas?

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  • 3 more comments 
  • msrach041605 Mar 25, 2011

    hello Macmarkus, i tried the function test sequence... well i tried to try it. i couldnt get it to go into the test mode at all. when i got to the part where you "press options and cancel simultaneously for two seconds and it will enter test mode"it never did.. it just sat there.

  • msrach041605 Mar 25, 2011

    my particular unit dosent have a "display" it has five buttons (pause/cancel, start,select,options, and dryness) and the two knobs. (temp, and the cycle selector) but when my house breaker is on and feeding power into the dryer all the lights light up on the front control panel and it beeps when any of them are pushed and everything seems to work just as it should until i push start and it just clicks.. i did just notice however that the bulb inside the drum is on continuously. its not shutting off when the door is closed like it is supposed to. and yes i have tried re setting my breaker but it dosent change anything.

  • msrach041605 Mar 30, 2011

    i apologize it took me so long to respond. i do not have the tech sheet for the dryer.

  • msrach041605 Mar 31, 2011

    well i got the door switch out and i think i found the issue... (i hope..) the terminal that the orange wire attaches to (COM) is all blackened.... looks like it burnt up when the light shorted. do you think i can be that lucky that that is the issue and i dont actually have to cave and buy a circuit board?

  • msrach041605 Apr 08, 2011

    hey there again... sorry it took so long for me to get back to you... shipping took awhile for that door switch, but it did fix the problem!!! thank you so much for your help. i greatly appreciate it :)



1 Answer

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  • 2,605 Answers


Welcome to FixYa.

That doesn't sound good...stating the obvious I'm sure you know by now. I can provide you with a test program to run a diagnostic on your dryer, but I'm betting it's the relay on the main control.

Try this and let me know the results or if indeed anything happens from it at all...


1. Press and hold Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds to reset the control. The buzzer will sound 1 time and "rES" will be shown briefly in the display.

2. Immediately after, rotate cycle selector knob 5 turns counterclockwise to the second position from the bottom. Press and hold the Options and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The control will enter test mode, the buzzer will sound 3 times and all LED's will rapidly flash.

After entering the test mode, the cycle selector knob can now be rotated to select the following tests:

Rotate the cycle selector knob clockwise from the starting position:

0 turns: All LED's will flash.

1 turn: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. "H" and the control thermistor reading will

toggle back and forth in the display.

2 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit and "AF" (Air Fluff) is displayed.

3 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Drying and Cool Down LED's are lit and numbers appear in the display showing moisture sensor readings. Opening the door (press in on door switch plunger)

and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at the same time will make the numbers

decrease. In controls that do not have a digit display, the More Dry LED should be ON. Opening

the door (press in on door switch plunger) and placing a finger on the both moisture sense bars at

the same time will make the Damp LED come on.

4 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off.

Key/button test:

a. When the Temperature key is pressed, all the temperature LED's should light.

b. When the Dryness key is pressed, all the dryness level LED's should light.

c. When the Options or Select key is pressed, all the Option LED's should light.

d. When the Start/Pause key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.

e. When the Cancel key is pressed, all the cycle status LED's should light.

5 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is off. Cool Down LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is


6 turns: Drive motor runs; heat source is on. Drying LED is lit. Control thermistor reading is displayed.

7-11 turns: All LED's will flash.

To EXIT test mode, press and hold the Select and Cancel buttons simultaneously for 6 seconds or disconnect power from dryer. Dryer will be reset for regular operation

Let me know what you find as I said and we'll go from here. Good luck. Thank you for choosing FixYa today.


Macmarkus :)

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Mar 25, 2011

    Hello again,

    Thank you for the reply. Knowing what you've tried now, does the unit display anything on the control panel at all ?

    You mentioned previous the light works...I assume you mean the light bulb you changed inside the cabinet/drum right ?

    To back up for a moment, have you tried the physical act ( not just visually inspecting I mean ) turning the breaker off at the service panel (40amps) and then turning it back on as well as unplugging the unit and plugging it back in ?

    Let me know as much as you can and we'll try to eliminate the possibility the control is "toast".


    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Mar 25, 2011

    Oops :P

    I meant to say 30amp for a dryer breaker...40amp is for electric ovens/ranges. :o)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Mar 26, 2011


    Ok thanks for providing some more details.

    The issue of the light in the interior staying on is a clue...this would indicate either a bad door switch or again, the control is fried.

    Since your machine is slightly different, you may be able to get a more specific test program or diagnostic sheet if you access the lower panel of the dryer. Remove the two screws at the bottom and you should find a "tech sheet", in it should be test procedures etc.

    Let me know if it is indeed there and then we can move toward testing the door switch since that could be a problem...with some luck because I really think the control might have been damaged when the light short circuited.

    I'll watch for your further reply.


    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Mar 30, 2011

    Hello again,

    My apologies as well, I hadn't realized you had replied until recently.

    OK, Since you are missing your diagram/tech sheet info and my service manual for the frigidaire dyer is slightly different (just the control layout) I'll try to walk you trough checking the door switch. If the door switch is OK, you'll need a control sadly.

    Here's how...**unplug the dryer from the first of course**, now remove the top panel...

    Then you should be able to see the door switch via looking down the front by the control panel, to remove the switch is as follows...

    It's good idea to draw a picture or photo of where the wires go. Test the switch with an ohm meter in this manner. The switch will have 3 connectors for the three wires, identified as COM, NC, and NO.

    While the switch is at rest ( not pressed "in" ) place one lead on the "COM." and one wire on "NC" the meter should read continuity, the reverse is true if you push the button "in".

    While the switch is activated ( pushed "in" ) and one wire remaining on "COM." the other now on "NO" the meter should also read continuity, when released it should be continuity.

    Here's a diagram showing the positions while the dryer door is "closed" hence the switch is pushed in...

    Let me know what you find or if any of this is still not clear and I'll do my best to help you resolve this issue. Good luck.


    Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Mar 31, 2011


    I guess you can cross your fingers, although if the wire is intact it should be OK...but it's worth a try. Many times with a short like that the switch gets fried inside...if lucky. Like you said better that than the control board for sure.

    I'll watch for your reply again with my fingers crossed. Good luck. Regards, Macmarkus :)

  • Mark MacDonald
    Mark MacDonald Apr 08, 2011

    Hey to you too ! :o)

    I'm really glad to hear the door switch arrived and indeed fix the problem...that is the lesser of two evils by far. A new control would have run you a couple of hundred likely.

    Thanks again for coming to FixYa. I hope you will remember to take a moment to rate the assistance I provided and a short testimony is also appreciated. Take care.


    Macmarkus :)



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