Question about GE Profile Arctica 25.4 Cubic Feet Side-By-Side Refrigerator With Dispenser PSS25MGMWW

3 Answers

We have a GE Profile PS123SGPA PS side by side. It has developed a very frustrating fault on the fridge side, which our serviceman could not find the reason for, due to its very intermittent nature. The unit works very well (normally!) and keeps to recommended temps for both fridge and freezer - the ice maker also works well. It is installed properly by the agent and has a voltage control/circuit breaker in-line. Once in a while, however, the fridge side goes haywire and (although the door has been firmly closed!) it has somehow heated up to 60-80 deg F within a space of a few hours! The display is blank, the top light is really hot and there's no fan operating (even with the door closed). On pressing the temp. reset the display re-appears (showing 60-80F whatever - meanwhile the freezer is fine and shows zero F). I then (after dumping whatever food has spoilt) have to press Turbocool and the fridge cools down to normal after several hours. The serviceman checked the door switch and this works fine - the light goes out and the normal cooling fan comes on just before the door seals. He also checked the thermostat and tested other circuits and sensors, de-frost, etc. but all appeared normal. Doors are aligned correctly and there was no ice build up either in the fridge or the freezer. He left scratching his head! Hopefully you guys should have some idea what could cause this? Please note that although we always have plenty in the fridge, we did not have enough to keep the door from closing.

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  • rogerwxman Mar 25, 2011

    Thanks for the input - would a defective board be the cause of the interior light switching on or is this purely controlled by the mechanical action of the door switch?



    I say this because, if the fridge side merely switched off for 4 hours it would still be relatively cold in there with the door kept shut and with plenty of cold food and beers. However it was hotter in there (80F) than the ambient temp. (around 75F) and the top interior light was really hot and I think this was the main culprit of the temp. rise.



    Regards, Roger

  • rogerwxman Mar 25, 2011

    Thanks Shane - I think the main clue is that when the problem does occur - (it only happens, say, once in a 1-2 week period) - the interior light is very hot and the temperature display goes blank - it's as if the door sensor switch was faulty - although it appears to work ok when you manually depress it. The items you mentioned were all checked and presumably would give a more persistent problem rather than this once in a while thing. Also the fridge heats up far more than you would expect if, say, the power was switched off for several hours with the door closed. (e.g. it goes up to 80F as against 50, say)

  • rogerwxman Mar 27, 2011

    Thanks - Tech. says he previously checked all those points. He came and did a thorough check on the motherboard yesterday and found a slightly over voltage (14.5 v 13.0) in one location. He changed the board and we are leaving fridge on test for a week to see if the intermittent fault re-occurs. So far so good. Roger

  • rogerwxman Mar 27, 2011

    Thanks - Tech. came and did a thorough check on the motherboard yesterday and found a slightly over voltage (14.5 v 13.0) in one location. He changed the board and we are leaving fridge on test for a week to see if the intermittent fault re-occurs. So far so good. Roger

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Hello roger,
couple questions I have when you start to notice this heat up in the fridge are the how can i explain this hmm where door seals close onto the frame is that area of the metal getting hot at all when this happens if so this is usually due to a failure with the compressor fan also on that unit there is no defrost timer its run by a board one of the first thing i would check heres the inner diagram of the fridge http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fG0201072-00007.png is the damper and the damper control in the unit the damper door opens and closes due to the damper control this door when it opens lets the cold air into your refrigerator side of the unit if it does'nt open the fridge side would just get warmer and warmer also there are a couple other things that he should check as well part numbers 236, 237 are tempreture sensors and part number 453 is a thermostat located on the inside which has alot to do with that damper control that i was just discussing he has to do continuity tests on the thermostat and the two sensors in order to see if there is a fault with any of these definetly sounds like a damper issue seeing how there is no ice if he were to see no ice in the freezer then it wouldn't make sense to continue testing there any further and you would check the fan and then follow where the air goes next which would be through the damper door and you check the damper door by checking the control to the damper door and viola im also thinking after once again checking that 453 that this should be the first to be tested because looking at the diagram looking like this is what controls the damper door one way or another there has to be a control to the damper door that says hi brrrr its to cold shut the door or whew to hot time to open the door so first do the continuity test to see if 453 is working properly and remember if you arent hearing the click when you turn it its bad no if ands or buts about it you could also have one side shorted on the inside so it would only work on half either way both of these situations would require you to replace 453 message me back with your finds and any further questions that you may have and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped when our chat has fully concluded it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks again Rick I await your reply

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 27, 2011

    great but i dont think this will solve your situation I hope it does il await your reply i will be flying from tuesday- thursday of this upcoming week and will respond when I land if you dont repost by then Thanks Rick

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  • Master
  • 668 Answers

Hi,
You need to check the following to make sure your fridge is working properly:
Vent blockage - Air flows between the freezer and refrigerator sections to provide proper cooling via air vents.
Condenser coil - When the condenser coil is dirty it causes the sealed system to overheat and therefore the refrigerator will not cool properly.
Proper Air Circulation - Refrigerators require a specific amount of clearance around the cabinet to allow for air circulation. If the refrigerator does not have the minimum clearance required, the refrigerator cannot cool properly.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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Has he changed out the motherboard in the rear of the unit new G.E. part# (WR55X10942) ???, and the interface board in the front where you select features such as (Turbo-Cool) and temp sets ??? a defective motherboard will cause all the issues you state such as blank display,fan operation,damper vent door opening/closing in the upper left,also this damper vent door shaft on one side is prone to cracking and jamming this door shut or open so the air flow cannot be controlled by this door any longer.i would seroiusly swap out the motherboard first before any of the others as the thermistors are all connected to different portions on this board for freezer and refrige sides

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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