Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Surface element doesn't work
When an electric element doesn't work, either it isn't receiving electric power or it's likely that the element or receptacle it plugs into is faulty. Check the other elements. If none work, the circuit breaker has probably tripped. Reset it at the electric panel. If this reoccurs, call an appliance repairperson. If just one burner isn't working, try to pinpoint the source of the problem-- likely a bad element/burner or a problem with its connection receptacle. In some cases it's the switch or the wiring. To replace a bad switch or repair the wiring or replace the receptacle, call an appliance repairperson. A burner that plugs into a receptacle is easy to test. After turning off the range's power at the main electrical panel, just unplug the non-heating burner, plug it into another working receptacle, restore the power to the range, and test it. If the burner works, you know its original receptacle is probably faulty. If it doesn't work in the good receptacle, the burner is bad and should be replaced. Buy a replacement and simply plug it into the receptacle. When you remove the burner, look for burned wires or a charred receptacle. Check the receptacle or terminal block to see if it's cracked, loose or looks burned. If you notice any of the above signs, replace the faulty component, too. If the male burner prongs are corroded, always change the female receptacle it was plugged into. A flip-up burner requires a little more work. After turning off the power, tilt up the burner, unscrew the small screw that holds it, and then slide it out. Disassemble the insulator block by prying off the clips. Then unscrew the wires from the element, replace with a new burner, and reassemble. To test a burner with a multi-meter: First remove the burner from its receptacle, as discussed above. Set the multi-meter to the Rx100 setting (or, for a digital meter, to [omega symbol] or k[omega symbol]. With the red lead connected to the positive jack and the black lead to the negative jack, touch the black probe on one of the heating element's terminals and touch the red probe to the other terminal. The needle should jump from the infinity reading to the right, indicating a properly "closed" circuit. If it doesn't, try the probes on a different part of the metal contacts. Still no reading? Touch the two leads together to make sure the meter is working (the needle should jump). If it works, there is an internal break in the element and it will need to be replaced. When you're finished, turn the power back on.
Posted on Jan 18, 2006
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 790 Range
I can't believe I found this today. Today, my Elite 790 inner coil also stopped working! A little too coincidental.
When I turn on the burner, I can hear like a relay click on, but it does not heat. The middle and outer burners are fine.
Posted on Dec 21, 2007
Okay...what you have is a dual element with the 6 inch coil burned out. Yes, this is repairable, but unfortunately, since this is a dual element, it is sold as one assembly. The part number for a replacement is WB30T10044, and you can find it at repairclinic.com for about $90 (repairclinic item number 824238). I know it isn't cheap, but it beats having to pay for a service call, or buying a new appliance.
If you wish to repair this yourself, you can do so by following these steps:
1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with burners turned off.
2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.
3.On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, unplug the wire harness from the connector and follow these steps:
a. Unplug the cook top and leave the elements in place.
b. Place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).
c. Remove the affected surface element. Take note of the numbered positions where the mounting screws are located and locations of the wires. You may want to write down the numbered positions and the wire color codes. HINT: A good digital camera can save you time if you have one. You will need to install the new element in the same manner.
d. Install new element (upside down). Handle the surface elements with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure.
e. Re-install the cook top back on the range and you are DONE.
NOTE: If your range does NOT have a disconnect plug on the wiring harness you will need to perform the repairs with the cooktop propped up, and install the surface element assembly from underneath. A helpful hint: Use some duct tape to hold the element secure until you have it screwed back into place. Don't forget to remove the duct tape when completed. Once completed, lower the cook top and secure with screws.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you have require additional assistance.
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
I would recommend you check your fuse or breaker box for a blown fuse or tripped breaker. If you are only getting one leg of your 220 volts the you will have the problems you have listed. If you have no breaker or fuse problem you should then check your range cord for possible shorts or hot spots. Then work your way to the terminal block on the range. It definately sounds like you are only getting 110 volts to your range. I hope this will FixYa.
Good luck, Mike
Posted on Sep 24, 2008
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