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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Raypak pool
Usually not the gas valve unless line voltage was applied to it. Millivolt systems are very touchy about connections. First check the output of the millivolt generator (thermopile) the wires for this usually go straight to the gas valve they should be one red and one white usually in a high temp fiber glass sheath. The wires will lead from the gas valve to a rod by the pilot. Test between the two wires with a meter that can read mV DC. You should have somewhere in the neighborhood of 450-600mV DC. If you do not, then the thermopile is bad. If you do, then it is either a bad connection somewhere or an open safety in the circuit. Check all of the safety devices and clean all of the connections in the unit with sandpaper. Usually for safety devices there will be a high limit on the discharge of the header, a pressure switch sensing water pressure, and a rollout switch or two in the control compartment above the burner. Good luck, I have to battle with mV systems all the time at work, usually it's just a bad connection.
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
You may have one of two problems; The pilot orifice is very small and allows only a limited flow and any air trapped in the gas supply takes some time to bleed out while you are holding down the pilot button. Or the pilot orifice may be plugged in which case you would have to replace it.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
SOURCE: I have a problem with
sounds like its not proofing flame. it has a sensor usually like a needle sticks out into the flame that tells the gas valve the flame lit and is burning so its ok to keep sending gas, if its fails to proof flame then burner shuts down, then it tries to relight 3 times then locks out on fail safe. the blower will sometimes run continually once that occurs to highlight a failed condition. every time you reset it will try again 3 times then shut down. lp gas is very dangerous, even i do not work on it as the gas acts like gasoline and lays around. not like natural gas that disperses well. if you see the flame sensor try gently cleaning it with a little emory cloth. also a loose ground can cause this. check tio be sure any green wires are snug , they actually flow volts to ground through the flame on some to proof, thats why no ground no flame. if that fails then the board is most likely problem. change wire for wire , or get generic replacemant and follow directions exactly. good luck.some ignitors act as a flamre proofer as soon as they are done igniting! rarely do they fail to perform both funtions.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
If the burners do not fully ignite, the sensor will shut the furnace down. The lack of sufficient burner flame is a gas valve or gas pressure problem within the valve.
Replacing the gas valve with the original one may get you going. I surely suggest a professional service company for safety reasons and a thorough inspection. A 20 year old furnace is past it's normal life span.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
if you have a volt/ohm meter you can unplug all the wires to the valve set the meter to ohms and check to see across each terminal which have measurable resistance these should be the coil, usually the diagram is on the panel door i guess this is not the case so you will probably have to see which wires have voltage when your tstat is calling for heat also you need to make sure there are no other safety holding this circuit out let me know how you make out
Posted on Jan 09, 2009
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