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Ignition button needs to be replaced Hot plate gas Cannon SP1 model description elongated oval usually coffee colour have replaced it in the past. Need to get part in melbourne Victoria

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How to replace thermoblock sensor?


To replace this part you will have to open the jura machine. I found this information out because I had the dreaded error 8 reading on my jura machine which stopped it from making coffee. To disassemble the jura coffee machine you'll need some special tools that I will talk about as I describe how to get to the sensor, make sure you get those tools or something similar.
The problem that you are having is the boiler is not heating properly (heating the water properly), so the taste of espresso will not be good. You need a high heating temperature to get good tasting espresso. This generally happens because the thermo sensor went bad and the electronic board is not sensing the proper heat because the thermo sensor went out.
1. Remove the drip tray
2. Remove the water tank
3. Remove the coffee cover and bean hopper cover (aroma cover)
4. Remove the cover for the pre-ground coffee shut
5. Now you will need to remove the cup warning plate that is stainless steel, it is fastened with 2 security screws. You'll need a Newelectronx t15 torx security screwdriver to take them out.
6. Now remove the top plate, there will be 5 screws fastening it down. Again use the Newelectronx t15 torx screwdriver to take them out. Pull it up to release.
7. On the rear end of the machine, you'll need to remove some weird oval head screws. The only place I could find the tool for this oval head screw was in the Newelectronx Coffee Tool Kit Set. Get the oval tool, which is different from the Newelectronx t15 torx bit and remove the next few screws. There are 2 screws - oval head, on the lower backside. Take off the rear back panel. On the left you'll find the mechanical parts.
8. On the boiler, which is the big metal part that is formed like an upside down tear drop. The thermo sensor is attached to the boiler with a screw - again use the Newelectronx security screwdriver to remove the security screw.
9. The thermo sensor connects to the electronic board. Detach the wire from the electronic board. Now the thermo sensor is off.
10. Replace the thermo sensor with a new jura thermo sensor that has the same wire colors. If the wire color is wrong the contact thermo sensor might not perform as it should.
11. Now put the machine back together. Good luck

Mar 25, 2015 | Jura Capresso Impressa S9 Coffee...

1 Answer

Coffee cool fast after brewing


Check the hot plate at the bottom of the coffee maker, it should be hot and there is usually a setting to have it remain hot for 1-3 hrs.

Mar 17, 2015 | Oster Coffee Makers & Espresso Machines

1 Answer

Why did the coffee maker leak bad and now just quit wont gety hot


You seem to be saying the unit "leaked: really badly getting water all over; and now the hot plate will not heat up. Such "leaks" are usually caused when the basket is not pushed in correctly so that the water cutoff switch remains closed when it should be open. (The water cutoff valve is what allows you to remove the pot/carafe in order to pour a quick cup even while the coffee is still drip brewing.) If that cutoff vvalve remains closed for more than a minute or so, or less, water will overlow the basket because with its path out the bottom and into the pot is blocked' and it has not place else to go but over the top of the filter basket holder. Now, when such an overlfow (not leak) happens, there is the hot plate right below into which the overflow flows down. As long at it remains wet it will be short circuited and not heat up. So let stand and/or blow or hairdryer heat to remove all water (be sure to unplug coffee maker to to that). Now, once everything including the hot plate are dry, the coffee maker will either work fine, or will need to be replaced.

Nov 02, 2014 | Bunn 10 Cup Home Coffee Brewer

1 Answer

My warmer plate light does not work and the water in holding tank feels warm on top not on bottom,coffee is not hot enough to dissolve powderewd creamer.Why?


No warmer plate llight:
Usually means bad switch. Bunn Part no. is 20316.0001. Replacement available at link below.
Bunn Home On Off Warmer Control Switch Lighted

Note differences in switch wiring in photo below between old and new style switches.
24915397-wajh22jgqqim5mofp4quohsx-3-0.jpg

Coffee not hot:
Make sure "Vacation Switch" is in OFF position.

Aug 07, 2014 | Retail Supplies

1 Answer

Break drums are stuck


you have to loosen the shoes at the little starwheel; you can get to it through the backing plate behind the drum. you will probably find a small elongated oval rubber plug back there, usually at the bottom center of the backing plate. remove the plug and look inside; you will see a section of the adjuster starwheel. make the wheel go downward and you are loosening the shoes. when you've loosened the wheel a couple of turns, you'll have to hit the drum a couple of times with a hammer to unglue it from the hub, and it should come off.

Mar 10, 2013 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

Hi all. In desperate need of help. I have a La Cimbali M29 Select. I am unable to get hot water from the hot water tap and when the machine dispenses a shot of coffee, I have to turn the machine of...


From your description it sound that the button strip need to be replaced. All the buttons of the coffees and also for hot water are all set in one unit the button strip. This like a membrane and is located under the buttons. This is frequent problem with m29 select since the connector of the button strip it is exposed under the cup warmer area and is very easy to absorb the humidity from steam escape inside the machine and when one short circuit it happens then since the whole strip is one unit it will mull faction as you described.

Jun 14, 2011 | Espresso RMI La Cimbali Espresso Machine

1 Answer

I replaced what I thought was a bad igniter.But still had no glow from new igniter. Must be something else.Where do I go from here?


Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:
  • Pilot Ignition
  • Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)
  • Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)
  • Spark Ignition System

  • Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


    Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
    This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


    What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

    It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

    Dec 30, 2009 | GE Ovens

    1 Answer

    Do you have to take the gas tank out to replace the fuel pump on 95 subaru lagacy wagon 4x4


    No. On the sedan, remove the rear seat and carpet, there will be an oval shaped plate, remove that and fuel pump is right there.
    On the wagon, remove the carpet, same oval shaped plate.

    May 01, 2009 | Subaru Legacy Cars & Trucks

    2 Answers

    Failed coffee maker


    the "sensor" (little white hard material disc) works in conjuction with the heating element Ok thats a no brainer, however usually it is the heating element failure (lloks like a big U thing on bottom of hot plate) that kills the sensor. Both have to be replaced, however, are they easy to find and worth the cost of parts and time to repair?? Or just buy another one. The life expectancy is aproxiamate 500 or less pots...

    Apr 20, 2009 | West Bend 55108 Espresso/coffee Maker

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