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Removal of drive pulley from camshaft on kawasaki fd590v engine in JD tractor

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

crayzeetrayn
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SOURCE: replace motion drive belt garden tractor craftman 917273080

On what make and model riding mower ..

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: I have a JD 320 hydrowith a Kawasaki FD590V

check all wiring and make sure there are no shorts especialy at key switch also blade and seat safety switchs it could be grounding (question does it backfire at all?) if so is it from carb or out of the exhaust. one more tip the flywheel keyway also servs as a timing pin if it is worn replace it with a new one.. they can cause a multitude of problems if they are worn even the slightest wear can cause it to start hard and other wise run sometimes very well .
point is for under a dollar you can rule it out and possibly eliminate the problem at the same time good luck hope this was helpfull and you can get it going good if i can be of further help e mail me mrdmburns@cableone.net

Posted on May 02, 2009

  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: No spark in JD lawn tractor engine

it could just stuck, loosen see if moves reset points.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: drive belt is too loose, already replaced belt and

I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

Posted on Nov 15, 2010

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Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover and Seal REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Crankshaft Damper and Front Oil Seal
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Accessory drive belt
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    • Crankshaft pulley and damper, using a holding fixture as shown
    • Front crankshaft seal Fig. 1: Crankshaft pulley removal tool - V8 9301jg12.gif
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  4. For dampers which DO NOT utilize a spit locking ring:
    1. Apply a thin, even coating of Loctite® 648 to the damper bore. Do not apply it to the end faces or to the crankshaft.
    2. Install the crankshaft damper onto the crankshaft. Wipe off any Loctite that has squeezed out from the front of the damper.
    3. Install the locking tool to the damper. Tighten the bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm), plus an 80 degree turn.
  5. For dampers which utilize a spit locking ring:
    1. Install a new O-ring seal to the damper.
    2. Install the crankshaft damper.
    3. Apply petroleum jelly to the damper bore and O-ring seal.
    4. Install the damper onto the crankshaft.
    5. Install the split locking ring onto the crankshaft, inside the center bore of the damper.
    6. Install the locking tool to the damper.
    7. Tighten the damper bolt to 266-285 ft. lbs. (364-386 Nm).
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  6. Install or connect the following:
    • Cooling fans
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
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Timing Cover
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Water pump pulley
    • Accessory drive belt tensioner
    • Idler pulley
    • Crankshaft damper
    • Engine appearance covers
    • Mass Air Flow (MAF) meter
    • Air intake assembly
    • Ignition coils
    • Canister purge valve
    • Valve covers
    • Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoids
    • Engine harness retaining clips
    • Timing cover
    To install: Fig. 2: Sealant application points - V8 9301jg23.gif
    Fig. 3: Timing cover torque sequence-V8 9307jg01.gif

  4. Apply sealant to the 8 joints on the engine face as shown.
  5. Install or connect the following:
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    • VVT solenoids
    • Valve covers
    • Canister purge valve
    • Ignition coils
    • Air intake assembly
    • MAF meter
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    • Crankshaft damper
    • Idler pulley
    • Accessory drive belt tensioner
    • Water pump pulley
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Upper radiator hose
    • Negative battery cable
  6. Fill the cooling system.
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Timing Chain 6 CYLINDER
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Valve cover
    • Timing chain cover
    • Variable Valve Timing (VVT) sensor
    • Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
  3. Rotate the crankshaft until the triangular arrow indent on the driveplate is visible through the access hole.
  4. Install the Crankshaft Setting Peg JD 216 into the CKP sensor location.
  5. Install the Camshaft Locking tool JD 215 on the camshafts.
  6. Remove or disconnect the following:
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    • VVT mounting bolt by loosening it
    • Camshaft Locking tool JD 215
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check all wiring and make sure there are no shorts especialy at key switch also blade and seat safety switchs it could be grounding (question does it backfire at all?) if so is it from carb or out of the exhaust. one more tip the flywheel keyway also servs as a timing pin if it is worn replace it with a new one.. they can cause a multitude of problems if they are worn even the slightest wear can cause it to start hard and other wise run sometimes very well .
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