How do you get the back off the dryer? I took all the screws out and it was stilled stuffed down as if it was painted on or had spot welts on it. (I don't actually know what a spot welt is, but my boyfriend told me to say that...). He replaced the belt and it is still making a noise like a train is stopping. It is running, and actually has stopped making the noise for the past 10 minutes... What prompted me to replace the belt was that it made a high pitched noise when I first pushed the start button..for a day,and then when I put clothes in the drum wouldn't turn. Then when I took the clothes out the drum did turn, but it made the noise...I am suspicious it was a tiny lego piece.that may have dislodged? Any ideas?
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Re: Back of dryer
Always disconnect power
Kenmore, the Front comes off, the back is fixed and rigid.
remove the lint screen
remove the screws that hold the lint screen holder to the lid
there are spring clips at the front corners that can be pressed in with a putty knife or other blunt blade to unlock the top cover.
raise the top
there are screws either side of the front, inside the case points to the front heads to the rear, remove them,
unplug the door switch, lift front off drum and supports and away.
reassemble in reverse
easy access to drum to remove it and replace felt ring, rollers belts.
When you replpace the belt, you should check the felt bearing around the open end of the drum, and the pully/idler wheels as well.
Often the cause of the belt breaking is the extra force needed to turn the drum when the felt or rollers are fubar.
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Frst take the two screws that are exsposed after you remove the lint trap. Next use a flat bade screw driver and insert it in the seam between the front and top approximately 2 inches in from the side. There is a spring clip 2 inches in on each side you have to trip by shoving the screwdriver in about 1 1/4 inches. The easiest way is to tap them with a hammer. (pry upward on the top and lift it all the way up it will be hinged on the back. Now looking down each front corner you will see a 5/16 screw approximately 8 inches down from the top. Remove these screws and the front can be tilted outward and lifted straight up. You will see a door switch and wires attached to the front remove the wires. You need to do this so you can put the belt around the drum and slide it back. You can see where the belt was riding on the drum. Set the front aside and out of your way. (if you are a very flexable person you can replace the belt from the front but us normal human beings have to remove the back) Next go to the back and remove the back panel there are several 5/16 hex head screws around the outside edge of the back panel remove them and set the back panel aside. Inside on the bottom left side as you face the back of the dryer you will see a motor and a tensioner. The tensioner may still be in place it goes in a slot in the bottom of the dryer next to the pulley on the motor. Put the belt on the drum by putting it around the drum from the front. The belt goes around the drum across the pully on the motor with the tensioner and its pully putting tension of the belt to take up any slack. Then just put everything back in reverse order. Make sure the tensioner pully rotates smoothly if it does not this can cause your belt to break or usually get thrown off the pully. Remember to unplug your dryer before starting and clean the excess lint out of the bottom of the dryer as a good prevention to other problems. I hope this helps
if it has lint filter on top, remove 2 screws in filter housing , pull top forward and lift. if no lint filter on top, use paint scraper to disengage clips about 2 inches in on either side between top and front panel in front of machine..
Put all the screws back in the dryer where they go. The heater has probably dropped down and will be fun to resecure but it must be done. All service to your dryer is done through the front and you don't have to move dryer from wall at all. Use a flat bade scre driver or putty knife on the front left and right sides at top and the top pops up and there are the t-stats and all.
I normally don't work on gas dryers but it sounds like the drum rollers are in need of lubrication.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots or wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3 in One oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
I will include these two websites for parts and further help:
Both also have chat assistance 24/7.
I hope this helps
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The choice is yours. Money often motivates these decisions. If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the top panel price is roughly $108 to $160 depending on the color you need. White or Bisquit is the cheapest, while Pewter is the most expensive. If you wish to replace it, appliancepartspros.com carries it for the cheapest price.
If you wish to paint it, remove the panel from the dryer first by locating and removing the screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off. This will allow you to work on it in a more convenient location and avoid any overspray from paint on your appliance. Make sure you clean the surface throughly to remove anything that may have caused the paint to bubble and peel in the first place (Ospho is commonly used to clean metal surfaces in preparation for painting - clean AFTER you sand). I would sand with a fine grit sand paper or emery cloth to ensure you don't leave any surface scratches. Prime the entire panel to provide a good surface for the new paint to adhere to. Once the primer is dry, apply a couple of good coats of appliance paint. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.