Question about Ryobi 18" Chain Saw Repl Bar Model Ry10532
The bar groove has a hidden slot place close to one of the 2 bolts that hold the bar where the bottom of the chain groove is connected to the hole in the side. This side hole lines up with another hole in the metal plate covering the oil tank area - bent angles go away from the bar and you should see a free hole and slot system between the oil tank passing straight through to the bar and then on to the bar chain slot to get at the chain links. Sawdust will tend to clog up in here as it runs under the chain on the bottom, so your chain oil gets cut off naturally. You can use a paper clip to poke it out. The tension pip must go into the proper hole also, so just use hand tight on one bolt at first and check that the tension screw makes the bar move so that the chain is seen going up and down underneath. Now adjust so that only one pound of pull with your left hand on the chain underneath exposes three of the chain's teeth completely from the bar - no more than that and no less! Now tighten the two bar bolts to spec. This will change as the bar gets very hot. Next take two caps full of chain/bar oil and oil up all the chain before starting. It goes up to 12,000 rpm so you can never have too much oil. Click your chain brake back and forth to see it works perfect - if there is even a teaspoon of sawdust between the brake band and the centrifugal clutch you will just stall out. Also watch the way old timers do a file job, and exactly where on the bar and at what angle for each tooth, there is more to it than you would think which is why sawmill filer jobs are the highest pay of all the woodworkers jobs. A poor job or 5 hour maintenance time is indicated by the saw not cutting into the wood easily, an angled cut, bar smoking and burning of the wood. I noticed on wet hardwood like Walnut you have to increase this maintenance about 30 times more frequent.
Posted on Mar 24, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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