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My freezers coil keep frosting up , the upper ones , not the bottom, we already replaced the thermostat so what could it be GSS20IEMAWW model

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Hi

The reasons behind the frost build-up on the evaporator coils causes by various reasons. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: -

The defrost timer,The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) .The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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FRIDGE button is set on 3, red light flashes, air system works but it is not cool for at least 1 hour, Freezer set on 4 S and works.


Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermistor and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.
The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it. Then make sure all the vents are clear and not being blocked by food cartons. One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.
New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.
On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem
If you find this helpful, a vote with the thumbs up would be appreciated for the free advice

Jul 13, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Sub zero 532 fridge is not cooling porperly but freezer is fine


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If there is no cooling at all on the fridge section but the freezer works then it is confirmed that the compressor and gas pressure is OK. Now shut off the fridge and leave it powered off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if ice forms in the freezer then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked. Frost formation without defrosting could block the air flow and so shut the air passage to the fridge. Also the blower fan must work and if this is not working then the fan can be faulty. Also a fault on the control unit is a suspect to non functioning of any one of these components.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test using a multi-meter on the defrost timer and the thermostat and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jul 09, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My refrigerator will not get cold the freezer gets cold it also has frost on the back panel in the freezer


You have a problem with the defrost circuit of your refrigerator. The frost is building up on the evaporator coils in the freezer preventing air circulation from the refrigerator to be cooled off by the coils. It is made up of three parts, the defrost timer/control module, defrost heater, and thermostat.

The way it works is that normally the compressor has power for 8- 24 hours, then the timer/module cuts power off and sends power to the defrost heater for about 45 minutes. The heater is attached to the coil and warms up the coil to melt the ice. When the coil reaches about 40 deg F, the thermostat which is in series with the heater, opens up cutting off power to the heater. This prevents the freezer from getting too hot. After the 45 minutes are up, the timer/module switches the power back to the compressor again to restart the cooling cycle.

I don't know what make and model fridge you have since you did not supply it. But if you have an older model it is controlled by a timer, often it fails to advance to the defrost mode causing it to stay in cool mode. Often the problem is that the defrost heater burns out so it can't melt the frost on the coils.

If you take the panel off the back of the freezer you will find the evap coil. You can use a hair dryer to melt the ice. The heater will be attached to the coil. If you have a meter you can check whether it is burned out. Replacement parts can be found at your local appliance repair outlet or online at repairclinic.com.

Mar 23, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Whirlpool Refrigerator model ET18GKXHW0 0 I seem to have a problem with my defrost cycle. The fridge has warmed up over the last few days and there is frost buildup on the back of the freezer...


The defrost cycle is relative to the cooling coils and not the interior temprature. Frost showing up means air is leaking into the fridge... To resolve, you need to observe the cooling coils are free from buildup. it it the coils, usually under panels, that should be attracting the moisture, and the defrost cycle clears that buildup, and not any buildup in the main (user accessable) areas of the fridge....

Defrost timers are not too expensive, consider blindly changing that...but totally defrost the unit around the coils or you will never get past the issue.

Mar 02, 2011 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My Panasonic refrigerator NR-B420T is not cooling, however the freezer part still cooling.


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Since there is cooling on the freezer the fault can be the defrost timer. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
So try this test from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Jan 05, 2011 | Panasonic Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

Ice and frost on coils inside freezer


Possible that the auto defrost timer is faulty and is not working to the scheduled timing causing the frost to build up and block the coils in the freezer.
You will need to check this timer at the rear bottom of the fridge , check if thee timer clicks on or else replace,
Make sure that the thermostat is also working and shut the compressor when the thermostat is set low.

Sep 27, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My freezer side GE Profile Performance refrigerator collects water at the bottom and freezes. I have to dig out and cclean the ice every 2-3 days. I turned off the water line , but it still does it. what...


The evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the back of the freezer.

Aug 25, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

AMANA UPRIGHT FREEZER LEAKS WATER FROM THE DOOR


Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Jan 14, 2010 | KitchenAid Architect II KBHS109SSS...

2 Answers

Always finding water on the floor under the fridge


Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.


Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.

Nov 06, 2009 | Microwave Ovens

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