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That is a roll pin and you need a punch the size just smaller that that little pin. Then you can just tap it out with the punch and a hammer. Remove the drive and replace and tap the pin back into place to hold the rubber drive.
Possibly the gasket while it lasts on the cheap on eBay by searching "VINTAGE HAMILTON BEACH REPLACEMENT RUBBER GASKET" there. Try typing in your model number at HB's parts site, located by clicking here . Many www sites like abtecparts.com and goodmans.net could help you. Besides matching description, I would match the pictures of what you are going for against what you've got as much as possible. Good luck!
Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!
I simply slid a small screwdriver in through one of the holes under the base to prevent the fan from spinning and unscrewed the pin counterclockwise using some small channel lock pliers. No disassembly necessary.
The problem I had was removing the grey rubber drive. The solution is that it screws off not pops off. The trick is to use narrow needle nose pliers to grab the post that attaches to the motor and turn the rubber drive counter clockwise. Removing the motor becomes easy. Pull out the 4 rubber feet under the base and the screws will be exposed. However my situation was the grey drive gear was stripped and would bottom out. My solution was to use a same size lock washer as the washer between the post and the drive. So far so good! If it fails I will need to buy another grey drive. Myron
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.