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NEED TO KNOW HOW THE FLUE IS SUPPOSED TO BE POSITIONED AND HOW MUCH FALL/FT.....NEED DIAGRAM SENT TO US.

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What exactly is the flue going to be connected too? Without that information, it's difficult to help you.

Rich

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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Safety relief valves


Need to know what pressure steam you are running, and what your water feed pressure is & temperature. If you are using a deaerator with pumps to supply feed pressure, and if there is a stack economizer. @ your altitude, I would de-rate your gas output to 10% less than your rated BTU's. Also need to know the % of oxygen in your flue gas, and if the gas & air intake is staged or modulating.

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The pilot light goes out about every 4 to 5 days. heater purchased in 2009. problem started right away. WATER WORKS sent out a technican three different times. they replaced the gas valve. problem...


I have had this problem with a couple of MOR-FLO AMERICAN gas water heaters. What I would suggest is first make sure that combustion air inlet screen on the bottom of the heater is clean of all lint,animal hair,etc. Also clean the screen around outside of heater base, not every installer uses this screen.
Next check to see how thermocouple is positioned in burner compartment. If it is touching the bottom of heater then try to reposition it so there is a little clearance.
Check height of flue through roof and position relative to other roof structures. With these sealed combustion units I have had problems with the pilot light blowing out due to wind speed and direction. I have fixed this problem a couple of times by raising height of flue pipe one or two feet. I hope this helps you. Thanks

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Can not get top off how to work on gas surface burners


If you provided the correct model, you should only need to remove the grates to get to the burner caps. Just lift up, on some stoves you may need to slide one of the grates a fraction of an inch away from the other if the grates are in pairs on each side. Then you can lift off the burner caps, note the caps fit onto pegs and must be positioned correctly onto the pegs when you put them back and then the sealed burner units.The drip pans also just lift out. After those parts are out you are at the main top which has no clips or screws on the parts diagram. However the flue cover may block you from just lifting it up.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=22014&diagram_id=663880 has detailed diagrams for the parts list.)

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I have a Dometic 2193 3 way fridge. It works


The flue baffle was the solution that worked for me as well. Below is a response I posted to a similar post.

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I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

Jul 14, 2010 | Dometic RM2193 Compact Refrigerator With...

1 Answer

Refridgerator won't cool on propane. Lights fine and stays lit. Stack gets hot. Coils are warm. Works fine on AC and DC.


I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm

Jul 12, 2010 | Dometic RM2193 Compact Refrigerator With...

1 Answer

No cooling on gas, works great on elect.


I had a similar problem. The flue would get hot and the cooling tubes would get "warm". The refrig would get a LITTLE cool but nothing to be of any help.

I solved it though...it turns out there is a "flue baffle" (twisty little metal thing) that is supposed to hang in the inside of the baffle. It hangs from a screw found on top of the baffle and it is supposed to hang down.

The screw that held mine was corroded and flue baffle had fallen into the baffle and landed on top of the burner.

I ended up fishing the flue baffle out of the top of the baffle with a coat hanger, then rehanging it using a new screw. That solved my problem.

Not sure if this will work for you or not but good luck.

By the way, you can find an owner's manual with a diagram showing the flue, the flue baffle, and the piece of metal holding it here:

http://www.fourwheelcampers.com/DometicRefrigerator.pdf

Look on p.9, figure 9. Item C is the flue baffle and the wire holding it. Item B is the screw that was corroded on mine, and ended up dropping the baffle down to the bottom of the flue.

Below is a link to some generic directions on solving fridge-related problems. I found it to be VERY useful.

http://rvmobile.com/Tech/Technical.htm


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1 Answer

I have an older Tappan gas range. There is a


If you are referring to the top of the oven cavity itself (the ceiling in the oven) you may be describing the flue gasket and flue that is mounted on the top of the oven cavity. The part numbers are 316116600 and 316204401, respectively.

If you are referring to the top panel of the stove directly under the console, and in back of the surface burners, you may be describing the oven vent opening. It is normal for this vent to have oven heat escaping it. That's what it is for. That's also why you do not leave anything on the stove top while baking. There is a vent cover that is supposed to install over the opening. The part number is 316104500.

If the model number is correct, you can refer to pcappliancerepair.com for illustrated parts listings. The flue gasket and flue are listed under the "Body" section as items 35 and 36, respectively.

The top vent cover is listed under the Top/Drawer section as item 25.

Please review the parts listings for clarification. If I have identified the wrong parts, based on your description, or if the model number is not correct, please post back and let me know. I hope this helps you.

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Oddly enough, the problem is with your ice dispenser. What happens is that the door at the bottom of the ice chute is probably not sealed. This is likely because there is a solenoid that is supposed to hold that door open when you push your cup against the dispenser arm, and THEN, close it again when you release. If the chute door is not sealed, warmer, moist air from outside the refridgerator will be canstantly drawn up the chute where the moisture will freeze as frost. Gradually, this frost builds up in the chute until there is no longer enough room foir the ice to fall. You can usually look up at the chute from outside and see that the door is not sealed. In my case, I left it unsealed because the door would not open to let the ice out. It took me about 3 months to figure out that this was causing my frost-clogging problem. The solution is to replace the solenoid that is supposed to open and close the chuite door. If you remove the despenser panel, you will see that this solenoid is probably all rusted up and not working. The following link will allow you to enter you model number and see a diagram of the offending area. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

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gday nelson. if you check out the specs on the rinnai range you will find another one that will go straight in. if you buy new it will come with a new flue kit. as far as recomended installation heights most of them are quite flexible. i installed a second hand 403ft yesterday with the centre of the flue at 140mm from the floor. recomended in the instructions were 240mm. a mate gave me the heater and i just had to buy a flue kit as the old one was already too short. if you messure your flue from inside and send me the specs i can give you a more difinitive answer.

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