Question about Microwave Ovens

3 Answers

My GE Monogram ZDIS15CSS ice maker fills the bin with water but does not pump water over the plate to produce ice. We did drain and shut unit down for 2 weeks and it would not start on our return. Can you point me to items to check? I am comfortble with replacing a motor or sensor if we can narrow down the problem. Thanks.

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  • 9 more comments 
  • jstreinz Mar 24, 2011

    Thanks. I am familiar with the sensor and it is in the correct position and it is plugged in. Anything I can do to by pass it?

  • jstreinz Mar 24, 2011

    I am still not sure how to tell what the problem is so I can repair the machine, can you help me?

  • jstreinz Mar 24, 2011

    Still in need of direction, please.

  • jstreinz Mar 25, 2011

    Hey Mobilan, I soaked the pump over night and then ran the clean cycle as you suggested but still no water being pumped over the plate. I took the pump out and removed the cover and the shaft turns very easily. I am not very electrically enhanced nor do I have equipment but is there a way for me to test the pump? I guess I want to make sure the problem isn't with another component like the ice level sensor. Your thoughts?

  • jstreinz Mar 26, 2011

    Did you get my last reply asking for additional assistance?

  • jstreinz Mar 27, 2011

    I have been waiting since Friday for a reply to a question, can someone else help me? Can you see all of my messages?

    Thanks.

  • jstreinz Mar 28, 2011

    Hi Kelly, thanks for getting back with me. The resvr fills with water as it should and immediately when turning on. From there it does not pump water over the plate. The sensor is plugged in and I removed and replaced it. Is there a way for a non-tech to test it or by-pass it for a test?



    Joel

  • jstreinz Mar 28, 2011

    Hey Kelly, thanks for your reply. I will take a look at this when I get home from work. FYI, it appears that the plate is getting cold as you can see a light frost that forms on the plate but no water runs over it.

  • jstreinz Mar 28, 2011

    Thanks Kelly, so what are your thoughts on what I should be looking at? I have the plate pumping pump out, is there an easy way to test it?

  • jstreinz Mar 29, 2011

    Hi Kelly, I am a bit confused as what to check on or how to determine what my problem is. I do have the pump that puts water on the plate out of the unit and I am wondering if there is a way for a lay person to test it. Can you help me in getting this project wrapped up? Thanks.

    Joel

  • jstreinz Mar 29, 2011

    I keep getting this same message, have you been getting my reply questions?

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3 Answers

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

The use and care manual is here:
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-60440.pdf

Here as a note from the manual:

IMPORTANT: Every time the icemaker is

turned off, you MUST clean the icemaker

system with the Nickel Safe Ice Machine

Cleaner. See Care and Cleaning-Icemaker
system
section for instructions

Knowing the unit was off for 2 weeks and then the problem started there may be something stuck in the inlet water valve. Remove power, TURN OFF THE WATER SUPPLY, follow the water supply line to the inlet water valve and remove the solenoid and then the armature cylinder on the top of the inlet water valve. There will be a needle, and spring inside so be careful NOT to lose them. Remove any debris from this area and carefeull remove / lift out the diaphragm. Wash the diaphragm / seals under slow running water by just rubbing your fingers over it. Depending upon the type valve you have there can be as many as 3 holes in the diaphragm. Center and 2 pin holes within 1/8" of the outer circumference. Make sure the pin holes (if any) are free of obstructions. Usually if the pin holes are a problem the water will not shut off. Before reassembling the valve briefly have someone turn on the water supply by doing 1 Instant ON / Off cycle to flush out the valve. 1 or 2 seconds tops. If you don't have water.... at this point the inlet water filter is clogged or the main water supply valve (utility connection shut off valve) has failed.

Test the resistance of the inlet water valve solenoid. Is should be somewhere between 180 and 480 ohms. Any where in that range should be ok.

If cleaning the inlet water valve & solenoid conponents do not resolve the issue you need to start looking at the sensor probe positon near the ice tray to see that it is in place and was not bumped durong a cleaning process.

This should get you going again. If not respond here with a progress update and we will go from there.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • 6 more comments 
  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    Hi Joel, My apology for not getting back to you sooner but was not even at home. You stated that it fill with water... BUT it does not pump water over the tray after filling at all. I not Mobillian had told you to soak the pump overnight (good advice) and you said it turned freely.

    The sensor (thermistor) is what passes the signal to turn on the pump. Knowing you already replaced the sensor (and we can not bypass it without some expensive variable resistor circuits / equipment) Lets just assume the problem is NOT the sensor / themistor. However.... follow the sensor harness back to the control board and make sure that the sensor wiring is properly connected to the control board.

    After that start looking at the control board for any signs of corrosion on the electrical runs within / on the board. If you note corrosion use a DRY "Q-Tip" or very carefully use a pencil eraser lightly over the corroded areas. It just seems to me at this point that the sensor signal is not getting to the main board or the main board itself has a problem. I find it hard to grasp that you just turned it off for 2 weeks and all of the sudden it is not working correctly.

    The one scenario that comes to mind is.... that maybe the bypass vavle is stuck open and the ice tray is not freezing so the sensor is telling the main board "hey it is not cold enough yet!" The bypass valve is part of the coolant system plumbing and is physically soldered onto the copper tubing. Just for grins.... use 2 pieces of wood (hammer HANDLES work great) and place one against the valve and then give it a few healthy TAPS to see if it will un-stick Don't hit it too hard... just enough to wake it up. :) Just try not to DENT it.

    You should be able to tell if the ice tray is getting cold or not. If it is NOT getting cold you may never have the pump run at all. (my suspicions at the moment assuming the compresor is running)

    Kelly


  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    Disregard.... after re-reading that information I just passed you they were talking about the drain pump!



    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    Use this page as a reference to where you have discovered anything:

    http://www.repairclinic.com/Ice-Maker-Fr...



    Note top middle and bottom.

    Kelly

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 28, 2011

    I note you stated that you saw frost on the ice plate. (tells me the compressor is running) I am still thinking the main board is not getting the sensor signal for some reason to turn on the pump. Do you know if the pump is even trying to run at all? Does it warm up to the touch at all? This still has me scratching my head but at the moment I am convincing myself it is related to the sensor signal or corrosion on the main board. If you have an ohm meter once the plate is cold kill power to the ice maker and measure the resistance of the sensor at the main board.



    You had asked if there was a way to bypass the sensor... the answer is you jumper in a 60K ohm resistor (<- radio shack) across the sensor terminals.



    I found this out reading a service bulletin.

    http://www.geservicesupport.com/ccweb/Mo... Just take a look at the first 2 pages. The last 2 pages are how to install a drain pump.

    This statement caught my attention:



    The pump senses the water level in the tank with an electronic

    sensor. If the customer turns the unit off and allows the ice to

    melt, the water flowing into the pump may be too pure for the

    sensor to detect. Therefore, water will back up into the bin.

    A 60 Kohm resistor is jumpered across the sensor to prevent

    water backup. If the pump does not have this resistor or if it is

    defective, it will not sense the water level and turn on the pump.

    Each time the pump is turned on it will run for 15 seconds. This

    could be used as a way to drain the bin by manually turning the

    pump on and off every 15 seconds until the bin is empty.



    Somehow I missed sending this post.... and told you to disregard the post before you even got it. Here it is...



    Kelly.

    The pump senses the water level in the tank with an electronic

    sensor. If the customer turns the unit off and allows the ice to

    melt, the water flowing into the pump may be too pure for the

    sensor to detect. Therefore, water will back up into the bin.

    A 60 Kohm resistor is jumpered across the sensor to prevent

    water backup. If the pump does not have this resistor or if it is

    defective, it will not sense the water level and turn on the pump.

    Each time the pump is turned on it will run for 15 seconds. This

    could be used as a way to drain the bin by manually turning the
    pump on and off every 15 seconds until the bin is empty.

    Somehow I missed sending this post.... and told you to disregard the post before you even got it. Here it is...

    Kelly.

  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 29, 2011

    There is a way to test it... but I would seriously have to see it to make the connections. There should be a maximum of 3 wires on the pump. Find the 2 that have resistance on them NOT zero ohms... but something above 480 Ohms and connect a test cord to those terminals to run the pump from an outlet. Just make sure the motor is AC before you make a test cord and plug it in. If it is DC you will have to use a battery and wires from + to - Whatever you do... DO NOT leave the wires from the control board connected when you test the pump. An old household extension wire with the female end cut off works good for fabricating a test cord. I am pretty sure your pump is good.. I am certain that for some reason the main board is not getting the sensor input to the board. Follow the wires from the sensor to the board and then unplug the 2 sensor wires and check for resistance under 70 K ohms across those 2 wires. If you get a resistance reading then the sensor and wires are good. If you don't get a reading... at all find out if the problem is the new sensor or the wiring. I unplug the sensor and jumper the 2 wires going to the control board and read for ZERO resistance / continuity. If that reads good I check the thermistor / sensor for 60 K ohms or less. It can read as low as 1039 Ohms depending on the temp of the sensor. Anything between 1039 ohms and 60 K ohms should be good when reading the thermistor(s).



    Kelly




  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 29, 2011

    I have a request. Some where inside your ice making machine there is a 4 x 6 envelope taped to the side of the chassis. The envelope should be labeled "Technical Data" or some thing similar. Pull out the sheets from the envelope and see if there is a tech sheet that tells you how to do a self diagnostic. (usually there is one) If you find it follow the steps and perform the diagnostics test. Let me know what the error was as a result of the diagnosis. The envelope will most likely be above the ice bin but that is not 100% sure. Just look for it on all inside panels of the chassis. If your the original owner it should still be inside.



    Kelly




  • Kelly
    Kelly Mar 29, 2011

    This was my answer to your ca a lay person test the pump question:

    There is a way to test it... but I would seriously have to see it to make the connections. There should be a maximum of 3 wires on the pump. Find the 2 that have resistance on them NOT zero ohms... but something above 480 Ohms and connect a test cord to those terminals to run the pump from an outlet. Just make sure the motor is AC before you make a test cord and plug it in. If it is DC you will have to use a battery and wires from + to - Whatever you do... DO NOT leave the wires from the control board connected when you test the pump. An old household extension wire with the female end cut off works good for fabricating a test cord. I am pretty sure your pump is good.. I am certain that for some reason the main board is not getting the sensor input to the board. Follow the wires from the sensor to the board and then unplug the 2 sensor wires and check for resistance under 70 K ohms across those 2 wires. If you get a resistance reading then the sensor and wires are good. If you don't get a reading... at all find out if the problem is the new sensor or the wiring. I unplug the sensor and jumper the 2 wires going to the control board and read for ZERO resistance / continuity. If that reads good I check the thermistor / sensor for 60 K ohms or less. It can read as low as 1039 Ohms depending on the temp of the sensor. Anything between 1039 ohms and 60 K ohms should be good when reading the thermistor(s).

    Kelly

    Having said the above.... Look on the pump and see what the power requirements are. I am not 100% sure it is 120 VAC or 24 V DC or something else without your schematic that should be in the tech data sheet envelope I mentioned in my last post. If the power requirement is 120 VAC use an ohm meter and find the 2 terminals on the pump that read resistance some what above ZERO. One of the wires is probably a ground but the other 2 wires will be line (neutral) and load power (L1). If you read resistance above 180 ohms across 2 terminals those are the power terminals. The resistance alone should tell you that the moter is most likely good. That is where you make a test cord from an old household extension wire and power it up from an outlet. I really believe that your not getting power to the pump because the main board is not getting the thermistor resistance from the new thermistor your installed.







    There is a way to test it... but I would seriously have to see it to make the connections. There should be a maximum of 3 wires on the pump. Find the 2 that have resistance on them NOT zero ohms... but something above 480 Ohms and connect a test cord to those terminals to run the pump from an outlet. Just make sure the motor is AC before you make a test cord and plug it in. If it is DC you will have to use a battery and wires from + to - Whatever you do... DO NOT leave the wires from the control board connected when you test the pump. An old household extension wire with the female end cut off works good for fabricating a test cord. I am pretty sure your pump is good.. I am certain that for some reason the main board is not getting the sensor input to the board. Follow the wires from the sensor to the board and then unplug the 2 sensor wires and check for resistance under 70 K ohms across those 2 wires. If you get a resistance reading then the sensor and wires are good. If you don't get a reading... at all find out if the problem is the new sensor or the wiring. I unplug the sensor and jumper the 2 wires going to the control board and read for ZERO resistance / continuity. If that reads good I check the thermistor / sensor for 60 K ohms or less. It can read as low as 1039 Ohms depending on the temp of the sensor. Anything between 1039 ohms and 60 K ohms should be good when reading the thermistor(s).

    Kelly

    Having said the above.... Look on the pump and see what the power requirements are. I am not 100% sure it is 120 VAC or 24 V DC or something else without your schematic that should be in the tech data sheet envelope I mentioned in my last post. If the power requirement is 120 VAC use an ohm meter and find the 2 terminals on the pump that read resistance some what above ZERO. One of the wires is probably a ground but the other 2 wires will be line (neutral) and load power (L1). If you read resistance above 180 ohms across 2 terminals those are the power terminals. The resistance alone should tell you that the moter is most likely good. That is where you make a test cord from an old household extension wire and power it up from an outlet. I really believe that your not getting power to the pump because the main board is not getting the thermistor resistance from the new thermistor your installed.



  • Rwright224 Feb 17, 2014

    thanks for that information,it helped me solve the problem.

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  • Master
  • 8,220 Answers

The pump probably has some calcium/lime buildup on the shaft and is seized up. You need to free it up and then add in some ice machine cleaner and go by package directions. I would use Nickel-guard.
This machine has a water valve as you now that fills the reservoir with water. The pump continually pours the water over the evaporation plate and a slab of ice forms. When the thickness is right the gas is redirected using a hot gas solenoid to toss hot condenser gas briefly through the evaporation plate and loosen the slab. The slab slides down onto a wire grid and gets cut into cubes. While you are at it give the condenser coils a good vacuuming. A new pump is $200 bucks. Let the ice machine cleaner soak the impeller overnight. Might be enough to get her up and running again.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
I would check the ice level sensor... it is shown on page 9 of this manual...

http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-60440.pdf

If the sensor thinks that the bin is full it will not do anything...
That is why that would be my first area of interest..

heatman101

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

  • 1 more comment 
  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Mar 24, 2011

    Hi,

    The bin sensor seems to be a thermistor or temperature sensor that cuts the machine off when it gets cold...therefore there would be no way to jumper it out....

    however if the sensor goes to an open postion the board will read it as too cold and it will not let the machine run...

    You could try to jumper the wires... it may read as hot then but it may also sense the complete short and also keep it from running... depends on how the board is programmed...it will not hurt anything to jumper them...



    Other then that there also is a thermostat and a transformer that would be a common part that will fail...



    here is a similar machine to yours and a parts breakdown for it...



    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partse...



    heatman101


  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Mar 24, 2011

    I could have given you a line of BS and told you that this or that for sure is your problem...I did not.. I was honest with you in that unless you have a technician actually check the machine and see what the problem is, there is no way to tell from here what exactly your problem is...there are at least three different things that will make your machine do what it is doing...

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Mar 28, 2011

    Joel,
    I have been watching everything...bottom line is that if the compressor AND the pump are not turning on then either the bin sensor is bad or the board is bad...
    If the compressor is running but not the pump then the board is bad...
    There are not that many things that can go wrong with the system...
    The sensor can be tested, but you need to know some very technical things that will be hard to find out other then calling the tech support people...
    There is only so much that can be done in a forum like this...unfortunate I agree... but reality...

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Hia and wl;ecome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
We really need a make and model number to provide you with specific unit applicable information but.... in general, here goes:
1. Ice makers must have a freezer temp below 16 Deg F. If there is an airflow problem in the freezer caused by a fan or ice build up the ice maker will no longer make ice.
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http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

The link above is pretty good.
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http://adcxns1.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/8527f904cc8ea8cd85256b5800672333/$FILE/4322658A.pdf

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Thanks for choosing FixYa,
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I would suspect a couple of wires are crossed.

GE puts mini-manuals in their units, which have wiring diagrams, schematics, etc. Very handy.

It will be folded up in a small envelope, usually behind the control panel or hidden elsewhere. That should help you.

Oct 26, 2007 | GE Monogram ZE2160SF Convection /...

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