Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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Kenmore Model # 110.25842400 will not advance once started. Reading through on-line areas, it could be the lid switch or the timer. How do I test to figure out which one is the culprit?

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  • tecountryman Mar 27, 2011

    Yes. Very!! We went ahead and ordered the part. While we are waiting for it to come, I've super-glued the old switch back together (it had separated) and the machine is running like a champ!

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The lid switch would be easy to test try to use a screw drive to push the lid switch down listen for the lid switch makeing the clicking noise if there is no noise then replace the lid switch here is a video on how to replace the lid switch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFsvLiuTniU if the lid switch is fine then you would look at the timer here is also a video on how to replace the timer in a washer as well http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPTORJrpHxM it is also possible to do a temporary repair by using a jumper wire to jump in between points 1 and 3 on the lid switches connection point which actually makes the unit run without the lid switch this is only a temporary repair and not suggested to leave for long amounts of time if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped when our chat has fully concluded it allows me to help others in similar situations Thanks Rick

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

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I changed the lid switch part # 8318084 and the washer still doesn't advanced


u may have a bad timer? the lid switch usually controls wheather
it agitates and spins? not the advancing? it will not go into agitate to wash if u have a bad water pressure switch, ( which regulates when to start washing according to the level
of water)

Aug 15, 2014 | Kenmore Sears Washing Machine Lid Switch...

1 Answer

KenmorenLaunry center not draining or advancing cycles


Hi David if the timer is not cycling the tub will not drain ,the washer will not complete cycles, second check the lock switch on the door. this can stop the timer and the tub from draining. when not cycling the timer is at fault , this could be two problems, 1st when everything stops check the door safety switch , 2nd listen for the timer, if it stops running. good luck ,geodaws

Dec 09, 2013 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore 300 model 110.28322700 won't run. motor makes humming sound


Pre Thanks for help.

I have read all above and these are my symptoms.
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.

however i tested my lid switch with a multimeter and the lid switch seems to be fine.

What else could be my issue?

Kenmore 300 110.28322700

Dec 03, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washer fill with water model # LA4800XTW0 then just sits there no agiate no spin water will then drain once switch is manually advanced. Lid switch problem? OR direct motor coupler?


Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post, if you mean manually advancing the timer it will drain, it's a coupler. If you mean manually activating the lid switch, it is the lid switch or lid switch strike.


( this is based on the most common Whirlpool, Estate, Kitchen-Aid, Roper, Kenmore, Inglis top-load washer, not necessarily applicable to ALL...based on the model provided, it cover's yours)


Thank you for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the info I provided and a short testimony is appreciated.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Aug 14, 2011 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine will partially fill with water for a minute or so but not run a wash cycle. it does this whether the top is up or down. It the timer is set to a different like heavy duty or perma-press, it...


HI. In most cases, the timer will be the culprit, here. With that said, i recommend to inspect the lid switch for its operational value.

Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch, properly. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your switch may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.

There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch.

Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same type.



  • NOTE_ Your switch/striker location may differ. Some Kenmore model will have the lid switch mechanism located directly behind the actual lid structure.

Mar 22, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Stops right before draining pre-rinse and spin cycle


HI. The first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

NOTE_ If the lid switch passes the examination, the culprit will be the timer mechanism.

Dec 27, 2009 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer won't spin


HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)

Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.

Sep 12, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

2 Answers

Kenmore washer won't agitate, spin, or drain


I would recommend checking your lid switch. If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

If not activated by a lid strike, other models have the lid switch located under the washer casing next to one of the lid hinges. It is activated by a rod contacting an actuator. The mounting scews for this type are located under the operator console.

If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to access the washer interior and replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of a replacement is $25 to $35.

Let me know if you have any questions, I hope this helps you.

Aug 21, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore washing machine 6 series model 110. stopped spining. I have pushed in the lid switch and I hear noise like it wants to work but it doesn't.


Test the Lid switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.

Jul 23, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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