Question about Black & Decker Scroll Jig Saw Blade

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I have a JS660 jigsaw. I'm trying to cut a bolt off of the base of a toilet. I'm using a metal blade and it is set to the metal cutting speed. When I start cutting, the blade pops off. I've reset the blade several times and I can **** and tug on it and it seems solid but the minute the blade hits the bolt it pops off again. The only thing unusual about it is I had to set the base to its max angle to get to the bolt but the blade isn't making contact with anything.

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  • Black & Decker Master
  • 43,501 Answers

Hi,
That is a common problem with those saws... the blade holder is a POS....
Some engineer's idea of a better idea that don't work in the real world...

Here is another review of that saw...

http://www.epinions.com/review/Black_Decker_JS660_Jigsaw_with_Smart_Select_Dial/content_493711167108

Don't know what else to tell you except that you may have to use a different saw....
I usually use my Milwaukee Sawzall for that job....I can place a longer blade in that and it works much better then a jig saw...

I have even used the old hacksaw standby already in a tight space...the bolts are brass and if you can get a groove halfway through you can break the top off from there...

heatman101

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

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How do i remove a broken bolt which is embedded in the toilet, the bolt keeps the toilet seat lid fastened to the toilet?


There has to be either a nut and washer under the toilet, or if its reversed a bolt head with a washer under it holding it down. To remove it you can either use a hacksaw blade between the bowl and the bottom of the seat. Or use a dremel tool to slowly cut away the metal rod, etc., from the top. If using hacksaw put down some masking tape on the bowl so you don't scar up the enamel surfacr of the bowl. Work slowly and you will eventulaly cut through it.

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I have a Parkside precision pendulum-action jigsaw, model number PPHSS 730. It has three blades... two for wood, one for metal.... but how can I tell which is for metal?


Tom,
The one for metal will almost certainly have the smallest teeth. Sometimes the metal one will a wavy tooth set - that is, if you viewed the blade from the front, there is a sine-wave shape to the tooth set pattern. (Tooth set means the tips of the teeth are bent a little bit to the left or right to make the cut just a little wider than the rest of the blade so that it doesn't get stuck in the cut.)
Good luck.

Feb 10, 2013 | Makita Jigsaw Blade

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I purchased a new B&D variaable Speed Orbital


you can order that in any B&D service center..try it..

Jun 09, 2011 | Black & Decker Saws

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This jigsaw seems to suffer from the same problem as its predecessor. Whenever i use it to cut through a kitchen worktop or any material it never gives a straight vertical cut through the material but...


I can't speak to the diffuculty you're having with that particular model, as I haven't used it. But in general, the stability of the cut depends upon the guide mechanism of the saw, and a three point guide is better than two point or single point. A three point guide assemble will hold the blade firmly locked when inserted into the column, will have a roller bearing that supports the center of the blade path, and will also have a finger pinching mechanism at the base near the material, so the blade can't waffle in the cut. Aside from changing saws, all I can recommend is that you make sure the base is correctly locked in place at an angle square to the blade, when fully extended. Check this with a small trysquare against the base, and look from both sides of the blade. Some folks will even attach an auxiliary base to stiffen theirs up, though this shouldn't be necessary. Then make sure you're using a sharp blade with the correct tooth count for the material you're cutting, and don't force the cut. Let the saw do the work, and make sure you hold the base firmly against the worktop as you cut. If you force a cut with the orbital action on full, you'll get more deflection.
Other than that, all I can say is that I've had good luck with the newer Bosch jigsaws, and the best cut I know of comes from the Festo, but we're talking serious dollars there.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

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1 Answer

My original blade broke so i bought a new blade from wickes 10tpi now when i use it i saw on the line i have marked but on the other side of the 2x2 it is about quarter to hallf inch out how can i make...


There are good blades and there are cheap blades. Good blades are straighter but less tolerant of poor technique and so tend to break, cheap blades can and do bend far more. You can keep the blade straighter by not forcing the blade through the work and allowing it to cut at it's own rate and by experimenting with the speed settings on the jigsaw. It also helps if you pick the correct blade for the job: 10tpi is a bit too coarse for ripping a timber batten along the grain but fine for rough cutting chipboard. Also, it's difficult to keep the foot of the jigsaw absolutely level on 2x2 which adds to your problems.

Aug 15, 2010 | Bosch T-Shank High Speed Steel Jigsaw...

1 Answer

Need instruction manual. how do you install the blade into the Acdelco AC-PT009 jigsaw?


Use the supplied hex to loosen(not completely) two bolts accessible through the vertical slots in the plastic front plate. Push the new blade into the loosened holding plate with the smooth back edge of the blade against the back wheel. Tighten and check blade firmness before using! Wear protection, use the correct blade, run at max speed before contact, and use a supported cutting bench. Think, plan, execute, and be safe. The motor is only half the power of regular models, so take short rests, and use only for minor jobs.

Aug 15, 2010 | ACDelco AC-PT009 3.8 Amp Variable Speed...

3 Answers

Get seat of Kohler K-3386


Roberta3fan could be giving bad advice based on experience with other toilets. This does not seem to be an option for this toilet design. I am in a similar situation and it appears that the nut (and it is a metal bolt) is not what you would expect. Here is a picture of the anchor kit for this toilet seat: http://www.plumbingsupply.com/images/kohler-anchorkit-84999.jpg I am going to assume that the sleave that should be engaging the bolt is cross threaded and try to grab it with a pair of vice grips. I'll let you know if it works.

Jan 09, 2010 | Kohler K-3386-0 Rialto one-piece...

1 Answer

Problem guiding the direction of cut with a jigsaw.


check that surface plate is square with the blade.don't push too hard,or force the saw,let it cut at it's own speed,guide rather than force.a scroll saw or band saw is more accurate as you control the work piece instead of the tool.

Oct 11, 2009 | Festool Jig Saw Circle Cutter - 490118

1 Answer

Blade wander


a jigsaw is for cutting wavy lines if u want a straight cut use a rip saw with fine blade but you still can use a jigsaw must have sharp blade there is a blade u can get now from screwfix with a triangle spine on the back off the blade to prevent it twisting works fine (also do not push hard on the powertool let the blade do the cutting less likely to wander hope this is of help

May 30, 2009 | Bosch 1590EVSK 6.4 Amp Top Handle Jigsaw

1 Answer

Blade misalignment


The 1590, like several Bosch jigsaws, has a selector switch to choose the type of cutting action. You have to choose the appropriate cutting action, either straight or oscillating, to accommodate the material you cut and the blade you cut with. For instance, if using a very slender blade for clean curved cuts in wood, a slight oscillating motion ( setting II or III) reduces friction on the blade. 
If you choose the straight cutting action you get maximum accuracy, but drastically increase the friction because the blade is held firmly to the roller bearing.  A slender blade can handle that for brief periods, (say... less than thirty seconds) in soft, thin wood with a straight cut. In hard woods or engineered wood products ( plywood, MDF etc.) the thin blade will heat up and bend. 
You can reduce friction by choosing an oscillating cutting motion, or you can use a larger, sturdier blade. The "Aggressor" blades do not cut as smoothly as the "clean" blades, but they cut faster and are stronger. To cut thick wood ( 4x4 ) or a long cut in engineered material, that is the blade I use. Select number III or number II for 'type-of-cut' and use a bigger blade. See if that stops the "bucking."
Good luck!

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