Question about Washing Machines

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Hi, I have a Hoover Washer/Dryer, model ref HNWL6136 1300RPM. The problem is that there is no heat on the drying prpgrams, and I'm not sure if the water is heating on the washing cycles. Everything else functions as it should, and there are no blockages. I guess that the heating element has packed up, and would like to know how to test this, and if a relpacement is a feasible DIY (ie just how difficult is it to fit)? Thanks in advance John

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  • 2 more comments 
  • jhe_uk Mar 31, 2011

    Hi Ginko,



    Sorry, I am not used to this system, and had intended to reply, but it seems I hit the wrong button.



    I had hoped for advice specific to my type/model washer/dryer, not a generalisation, albeit that your advice is appreciated. Secondly, you only addressed the issue of testing, and if I test and find fault I need to know that repair/replacement is a task that I can takle, and how, with my limited electrical knowledge?



    Step by step intstructions would be preferred, please.







    Regards



    John



    Ps If I find that the safety fuse has blown, will I not then have to find out what caused that event?

  • jhe_uk Mar 31, 2011

    Hi,
    Thanks for your advice. My machine is a washer/dryer, not a standalone dryer, is your advice equally applicable?

    As I originally mentioned, there are no blockages, programs work and water drains away very well, but the water does not heat, and there is no heat on the drying cycle.

    I would appreciate step by step instructions, specific to my machine, to test parts and to replace any defects.

    John

  • jhe_uk Mar 31, 2011

    Hi,

    I just sent you a reply, but cant see it anywhere, have you received it?

    John

  • jhe_uk Mar 31, 2011

    Hi,

    Looking for a Hoover Washer/Dryer expert with access to diagrams etc, please
    John

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  • Master
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Hi

I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermostat that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if bad replace it as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then check the dryer belt and idler pulley...Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.


Daniel

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

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  • Master
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The most common repair on dryers is to thoroughly clean out the excess lint in the dryers venting tubes. They collect moister as well causing a sensor inside the dryer to shut down the heat
Make note the the filter that catches the lint only absorbs about 95 percent of it
The remainder is stuck inside the tubing making the exhaust to back up
This back up of exhaust is well detected by a moister control sensor that was a government regulated part manditory installed in every dryer built in the past decade. This was issued to prevent house fires from dryers with this issue happening

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

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  • Washing Mach... Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

The heating element is not the most common reason for no heat. The heating element is a thick impedance, and does not break too easily. The bi-metal thermostats used in the heating group fail quite more commonly.

Before testing parts, check the thermal fuse. You can replace the fuse straight away, or you can first test it using a multimeter set on Ohms. If the multimeter reads Ohms infinity when you touch the fuse contacts with the probes, then the fuse is gone. A good fuse will read zero or low impedance.

If the fuse is OK, then you can have a defective thermostat or heating element.
In the same way you test the thermostats, thermistors or cutoff located in the heating group, near to fan and element. If they are OK, then they will be conductive at room temperature and will read zero Ohms. If they are bad they read open (infinity). You need to disconnect the part's contact to test properly.

The heating element is tested in the same way. Set multimeter on impedance, disconnect element, and touch contacts with multimeter probes. If it reads open, then element is gone. A good element reading depends on the specific model. Most washer-dryers, including Whirlpool and Maytag read between 10 and 20 Ohms.

If there is a lint filter, clean it and eventually replace it. A dirty lint filter may cause overheating and the thermostat will blow.

Regards.

Ginko.

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

  • 2 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 31, 2011

    Hi.

    I was expecting a clarification request or a question. My answer was rejected and passed to a different experts.

    I do not understand the reason for asking the question to a different expert.

    On your request you will be assisted by a different expert.

    Goodbye.

    Ginko

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 31, 2011

    Hi John.

    No problem. I try to inform the users that when you ask to more experts you effectively pass the case to someone else, interrupting troubleshooting.

    I have done a number of Electrolux similar to your hoover, and the answer was targeted to your appliance model. Unfortunately I do not have access to Hoover technical documentation, therefore I did not provide diagrams.

    Probably you are right and the next expert may be able to provide more specific help and documentation.

    Good luck!

    Ginko.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 31, 2011

    ....I was talking about a washer dryer. You first test the thermostat. Parts like dryness sensor (if present), and electronic control are more difficult to be tested. If the washer is heating, then the element should be OK.

    See if anybody can find precise diagrams or service manual for this Hoover Washer. That will tell you how many thermostats are in use, and the precise location of the thermostats in the heating assembly.

    Good luck.

    Ginko.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Mar 31, 2011

    Good luck.

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