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Fellows A4 laminator not heating up. I found a thermal fuse that had blown and replaced this, it now heats up but green indicator light when at max temp isn't coming on, therefore it continues to heat up which is probably the cause of the thermal fuse to blow. not sure which component is the temperature sensor, I suspect one that slides into a plastic sleeve attached to the side of the upper aluminium heating element but can't see any markings on it to identify the component in order to source a replacement.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • redned_22
    redned_22 Aug 04, 2012

    i have the same problem too..can anyone lend a help?..actually, its a roller type laminator..

  • redned_22
    redned_22 Aug 04, 2012

    i have the same problem too..can anyone lend a help?..actually, its a roller type laminator..

  • redned_22
    redned_22 Aug 04, 2012

    did you find the right help steve?

  • redned_22
    redned_22 Aug 04, 2012

    i have same problem here..anybody can lend a help?

×

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

robotek
  • 1512 Answers

SOURCE: How do I clear an

Hi jeffwillis

Try switching the unit off at the wall for 10 mins and then firing it up again to reset the machine. If it still wont behave, let me know and we shall look into it further.

regards
robotek

Posted on May 08, 2008

  • 1078 Answers

SOURCE: AMANA dryer model ALE643RBW burnt wire

I would think that:

Low voltage. A lack of proper voltage increases the current flow (amps) and can cause overheating, thus, a burnt wire. Remember, the lower the voltage, the higher the amps.

Bad connection. Poor connections can cause small amounts of arcing, thus burning the connection. This adds resistance to the circuit which causes a possible voltage drop and, again overheating due to higher amps.

Since all that equipment is on the same circuit, I would really think it is a voltage drop situation. With everything calling for power at the same time, the breaker trips. In some cases, it may be just enough for the breaker not to trip but still have a low voltage situation.

There is the possibility of an over current, such as a power spike from the power company but it would have to happen more than just a time or two.
And the outside chance that lighting got into the system when it struck something close to you home but it, in almost every case, would destroy something else, usually electronic. (This has happened to me. Trashed my dryer, dishwasher, and answering machine.)

Good luck and hope this helps. Le me know how you come out.

Posted on May 11, 2009

protek480
  • 1714 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool leb6000pq1 not heating

Thermostat controls heat. There is also a

motor centrifulgal switch, in the element

circuit, that the motor closes to insure

the motor is turning. Try another heat

setting. There is more than one

thermostat. You may have blown the

'thermal fuse' too, which requires

replacement. The elecment has a contact in

the 'timer' circuit too.

It is possible that your element has

failed also.

Tripped high limit. Must clean the lint

filter and the exhaust vent tube and all

the way in to the dryer. Hot air exit is

restricted.

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Performa dryer blowing heating elements

Hi and welcome to FixYa. You should check the dryer vent ducting inside and outside the dryer for restrictions / clogs to include the vent flapper. Poor air flow through the dryer will cause hot spots. If the blower is slipping on the motor shaft this too can cause poor air flow.

When you change the heating element AGAIN... break out the crevice tool and de-lint everything you can access. Also pull out the lint filter and wash it with white vinegar and water then soap and water. Fabric softener sheets material builds up on lint filters. It looks clean but air will not pass through the lint filter.

I think once you get it all ceaned up including all of the ducting to and through the outside wall it will work normally with no problems. I do not think at this time that you have an electrical problem with the outlet supply.

There is one more thing to check and that is the high limit thermostat. It could be STUCK. It will most likely be labeled L180 or L190. That thermostat is suposed to open at either 180 deg or 190 Deg depending on which one is installed. If it does not open then you will keep cooking your elements. We test them with a match and an Ohm Meter. Match under the removed thermostat CLICK. Thermostat opens (no resistance)

Wish ya the best.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

If anything in the future crops up with this same issue.

Posted on Apr 10, 2010

  • 228 Answers

SOURCE: Oven not heating up to temperature

no it does not did you change correct limiter double ovens have up to 3 and they all operate at different values.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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1 Answer

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follow this test and fix it. Merry Christmas.
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#2-1#ixzz2nvDsUQBK
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

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2 Answers

Waffle iron light goes on gut does not heat up


The most common reason for not heating up is because of a blown thermal fuse. Apparently the controller lets the iron get too hot or the fuse is out of manufacturing tolerance - and so the fuse opens.
The green lamp is normally lit when the relay is off and dark when the relay is on. When cold, the relay normally turns on within a second of power-up (switched on). During power-up, the green (ready) lamp should flicker on, and then as the relay clicks, go dark. If the green (ready) lamp does not flicker, the fuse is probably blown.
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3 Answers

My waffle iron no longer heats up.just a red light


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1 Answer

No heat


ELECTRIC

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.


GAS

Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Sep 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer will not heat up to dry clothes


If gas--

Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


If electric--

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Sep 03, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Does not heat


If gas, check the following.

Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.


If electric, check the following

Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Aug 29, 2009 | Dryers

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