Question about Televison & Video
These TVs are indeed re-branded Polaroid. You will not find the service manual under Element. You must find the equivalent Polaroid TV.
The Polaroid Flx-3202 is the same as element flx 3202 and 3212 the FLM-3237 is slightly different. Element were re-branded for Circuit City.
Polaroid service manuals won't be a great help, they are written to do board swapping. This TVs are cheap, and board swapping is all the repair that Polaroid ask the technician to do.
The service manual for 3237 is available on the Internet, but it is quite different, check if the two units have the same 37 pins sub, that is the part to be tested if PSU is OK, and there is no power to display (user upload Here Polaroid Service Manual-no t a great help). The other two are not available. Service manuals and bulletins can be ordered through Polaroid service contact.
When inverter and PSU are integrated, you check PSU voltages. There should be a control line from main board (or circuit). It may be passing through a sub board. If you have sound and LED on the AC main and DC-DC sections of the PSU should be OK, in DC-DC, check if there is power to the section going to the backlight (it is not a proper inverter). If that section has power in and no output, then the fault is likely in there.
If PSU is OK, a main failure is possible, but uncommon, the faulty part when PSU works well is the LCD panel.
Hope this will help.
Posted on Mar 23, 2011
Hi, before one can even begin to entertain to DIY a modern TV set, one simply must obtain a service and repair manual for the exact make and model. It is almost impossible without it, if only for the parts numbers that must be given to obtain spare parts.
Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. That's it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then that's a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty, and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be able to say.. "Oh that's the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish, a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's), Compressed Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, a magnifying glass, or eyepiece, a good strong white Light. OH, and you MUST have the original remote control too, (Sometimes one must obtain, purchase, a special "Servicing remote") as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.
When servicing try not to let the entire thing overwhelm you as one, treat the set as a conjunction of "Units". Meaning that we can break the unit up into sections, for instance we have a Power Supply, and Audio section, a Remote Control section, we have a Input Control section, we have a Video Control section, and so on. Now all these connect to specific parts of the circuit. Some have no relationship with each other and some are dependent upon each other. What we need to do is try to understand our "Fault" and isolate it to at least an "Area". Now when we have isolated the apparent problem, we then need to check our "Input" to that section and also the "Output" of that section, also we must first check that sections supply voltage and current, are correct. Depending on the unit being serviced, the Repair options, may be limited to changing a "Board" to clear the fault. Often these boards are exchangeable, and you get a rebate back, if when you purchase the new board, you send them you old broken board, and they then repair that, and around it goes. Other times, one must go down to "Board level" to effect a repair, always double check, before determining some component is faulty, it is best to isolate/remove, the component to test, often an "in situ" test can give erroneous reading due to "Other" components connected, altering the readings. Always replace with as good if not better components that you are replacing, skimping of component costs is counterproductive, in the long run.
It can often be a great troubleshooting method, to completely isolate the "Faulty" part of the circuit, if you can, isolate the in & out, and also remove, the "Native" power from, it too. You power from and external source, then also you can provide an External "Drive" to this circuit which you will NOW, be able to test under a, "know good" situation, which is so important to gain a benchmark for operation. NEVER EVER simply replace a Board or Component without ascertaining WHY, it has failed, as seldom does anything spontaneously fail, unless placed under stress at all operating times, such as a power Supply or the like.
So, thats about it, Also to remember that you are dealing with a unit, that can cause a fire, or an explosion, or both, this is not to be undertaken, lightly, for instance if one services a unit, and for whatever reason say, it caught fire, and burned, say, a house down, and heaven forbid, killed, someone, the REPAIRER of the UNIT is Criminally LIABLE, just a little point to remember, to ensure you ALWAYS DO A PROPER JOB.
it is my professional opinion though that everyone should take their units to their manufacturers approved service center, contacting a head office, of your unit & getting an approved service center is just SO important, even worth the extra to ship it, you see, at those places, the Engineers, are trained on the equipment you have, they usually have parts on hand, and do the job quicker. Anyway do that and get a "Quote". This way, at least, you'll know weather to repair or replace.
right click on that link, Choose "Open in new tab" and there are many sites to choose from
Your Red Drive has obviously "Failed" This is a common enough problem I see in my shop from time to time. However the actual "Cause" for this "Symptom". Can be a number of "Causes" and NONE of them are any sort of "Easy Fix". It is my professional opinion, that you should, first, contact, the local head office, of Sony, and ask for a referral, to an Authorised Service Center. Then, obtain a "Quote" for repair, from them. Now IF you must move it, I hope you have kept your original packaging, as suggested on box. in any event a unit such as this MUST, MUST, be VERY VERY gently handled. Ideally it should be packaged as similarly as possible to the way it came. When transporting, go very carefully, if possible Suspend it somehow, so that it doesn't receive any Jolts etc at all. Of course the best option is to get the set looked at "In Situ" as it were.
Posted on Mar 23, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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