Question about Whirlpool 30" Free Standing Electric Range WFE361LVD
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Range
Okay...if the clock assembly appears to be working and the oven light comes on, but nothing else is working, I would double check your input power at the receptacle. You will need to unplug the range and check voltages at L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral. There should be 120VAC on each leg. It sounds like you are missing 120VAC on one side of the receptacle. I believe the clock and oven light will still come on, because they only utilize a portion of the input voltage. The elements, however, require 220VAC. Another way of checking for input voltage is to pull the range out so you can access behind it. Unplug the range and remove the back cover so you can see the terminal board where the power cord is connected. There should be three wires from left to right (BLACK, WHITE, RED). BLACK is L1, RED is L2. There will be 120VAC on each one of these lines when you plug the power back into the receptacle. If you place a meter from L1(BLACK) to NEUTRAL (WHITE), you should have 120VAC. The same is true when you place a meter across L2 (RED) and NEUTRAL (WHITE). If you connect the meter across L1 (BLACK) to L2 (RED) you should have your full 220VAC. If either leg (L1 or L2) is missing, the range elements will not work. If you check in this manner, you not only will be able to confirm whether or not you have proper input power, but you will also be determining whether or not the power cord is good. This may be a simple matter of a loose terminal in the back of the range, or...I have seen where consumers have wired them incorrectly. Check for the following in this order:
1. Double check you breaker to make sure it is not tripped (I know you said you already checked it).
2. Unplug range and check for proper voltage at the receptacle.
3. Remove back cover of range and verify correct wiring of the power cord.
4. With range unplugged, ensure all terminal lugs are properly tightened.
CAUTION: Do not attempt to tighten the terminal lugs with the power cord plugged in. Also, do not attempt to service the receptacle (repair or replace) with the power turned on at the breaker. Votages dangerous to life exists. I hope this information is helpful to you. If you have any questions or concerns, please post back with your comments.
Posted on Jan 31, 2008
We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.
Posted on Dec 17, 2008
It appears your clock has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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