Question about Washing Machines

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Washer went through cycle but washer was still full of water and laundry. Did not appear to have spun either. Turned the timer to spin and the timer made noise but did not spin or drain. Water has since been leaking out of washer. Today i drained the washer and tried to put it in spin cycle and it did not work and made no noise. Washer will fill and agitate, but will not spin or drain. Door swich does click when depressed. There is also some oil under the transmission unknown where it is leaking from.

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  • Washing Mach... Master
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Sounds like the pump is goosed.....or may be just blocked............a penny is the ideal size to block a pump and stop it working...........let me know the outcome....
cheers

Posted on Mar 22, 2011

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a Kenmore HE3T. Larger/Heavier loads are no longer coming out as spun-out as they used to - they are spun out, so they're not dripping wet, but they are not nearly as spun-out as they should be/used...


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




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Aug 20, 2010 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3t Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Model 110.27802690 stopped after rinse, still full, won't respond. Checked power source, won't work in any switch position


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.27802690


I'm assuming from your problem that the washer went through its' first wash cycle, drained and spun, then filled again for the rinse cycle, went through the rinse and didn't go to the drain / spin cycle.

If that is correct, it appears that the motor, pump and transmission are working. It also appears that the Lid Switch is working. These are the main places to look for a problem such as yours.

If you stop the washer by pushing the control knob in, moving it to the spin cycle and starting it again, and the washer still doesn't spin, the problem points to a defective timer.

Before replacing the timer, I'd check the Lid Switch again by removing the two Trim End Caps and the two screws under them. Tilt the console back and disconnect the connector from the console to the lid switch.

Using a short insulated wire, jumper the Lid Switch at the console by jumping between the two outer pins.

Following is the Whirlpool Installation and Maintenance manual for these machines with a section on how to jumper the switch.

Then try to start the machine in the spin mode.

If it works, the problem is in the Lid Switch.

If not, It is likely in the timer.


Sep 30, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer gets stuck on wash cycle...


I would replace the timer . Pt # 3954071 . If the model number above your thread is correct .

Sep 06, 2009 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top...

1 Answer

Matyag Atlantis washer didn't drain


it could be a bad timer on the machine which tells it to change cycles i had the same problem and had to call them to come fix it. if this part is bad then it will go through asll cycles and never change cycles does that make sense?

Dec 28, 2008 | Maytag Atlantis MAV6000 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Front loead washer will not spin/rinse,


First, make sure that you do not overload the machine.
When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Sep 17, 2008 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

2 Answers

HELP


check the lid switch

Mar 27, 2008 | Washing Machines

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