Question about Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by Side Refrigerator

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Every thing runs but the compressor wont fire i think its the compressor start up capacitor how do i test the capacitor

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First discharge the capacitor for safetys sake,then touch the meter leads of a multi-meter set to RX100 to the caps leads if the needle stays on 0 the cap is shorted(but that would trip the wall breaker),if it doesnt move at all its open,if it goes to 0 and slowly climbs back towards infinity its good,i believe you will find the ptc overload relay on the compressor is defective,its in combination with the capacitor,the cap is only on there to take the power spikes off the relay contacts during start-up,the ptc overload relay is what aids in compressor start-up/run/and overload protection if compressor wont fire,change them both and it will run

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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Since the fan is running the that eliminates a lot of stuff. You can start by checking the capacitor for the compressor. It can be checked with a multimeter with a capacitor test function. Some capacitors have 2 terminals and are only for 1 component and some have 3 terminals and are for the fan and compressor. If it has 3, they will be labeled fan, herm, com. You would put the meter leads on the herm and com terminals because that is where the compressor will be hooked up. If the capacitor is good then you need to use the resistance function on the multimeter and check the compressor windings. The connections on the compressor are labeled R, S, C for run, start, common. Connect one meter lead to C and the other to R and read the meter. Then move from R to S and read the meter. The resistance from C to S should be greater than C to R. Neither should be less than 1 and neither should read open. Hope this helps. Let me know what you find.

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The only thing I can think it might be is something else is running on that breaker. But for it to snap a 30 amp, whoa. The 5.5 hp motor probably draws 18 amps on start up if not more. But then runs on 12 or 13, so for it to snap a 30 amp, I don't know. The capacitors, you have 2, could be drawing too much. One thing, what is the 30 amp breaker for? Is it 220 volts? Is your comp 220 volts? Check this stuff out. I'm not sure how you test the capacitor, but don't go messing with it, it holds a charge. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Fan runs but compressor just humms and wont kick on


Check electrical connections including the contactor. Also test the capacitor. If the capacitor fails, it will prevent the compressor from starting. Click HERE to see images of what the capacitor looks like.

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2 Answers

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It could be one of four things, a bad run capacitor, start capacitor, start relay or the
compressor is locked up.
I would think it's either the run capacitor. A lot of times you can look at it and if it's bulging even slightly then it's bad, if not it's probably the start capacitor and relay I add the relay in because when you change one you should change the other also..

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You need a capacitor checker or with an anolog meter on ohms first turn off power remove capacitor short capacitor out with a screw driver test it a bad capacitor needle wont move good one needle will read resistance then go back down to 0 if the condenser fan is running some thing up with the start components becarfull good luck to make sure condenser and evaporator are clean Tom

Jul 02, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My compressor will not run.


The start capacitor could be bad. Also the compressor could be worn out. If compressor starts and runs then stops and become hot makes me think the compressor is defective. How old is your refrigerator? Even so compressors go bad. Thanks, Seabreeze

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1 Answer

No cold air


  1. The filter could be dirty This is the most probable cause and, of course, the easiest to check and correct.
  2. The evaporator coil face could be coated with lint,dirt, etc.Dirt or lint on the coil will restrict the flow of air through the coil and the unit must be removed from the recreational vehicle and the soil must be thoroughly cleaned with strong detergent (Coil X,Calclean, etc.) and water. Be sure to protect the fan motor and electrical controls during cleaning by covering them with polyethylene sheet. After the system is cleaned, allow it to thoroughly dry for several hours (before turning it on) to prevent electrical shorts.Before system is put back into operation, be sure the filter is properly installed to prevent recurrence of dirty coil.
  3. No compressor (Does not try to start).The compressor does not run and it does not hum.
    1.The selector switch may be open.
    2. Thermostat may be open.
    3. Overload switch may be open.
    4. Compressor winding may be open.
  4. Selector Switch
  5. Thermostat
  6. Low Voltage
  7. Overload
  8. Compressor
  9. Wiring (Mis-wired)
  10. PTCR or Potential Relay
  11. Start Capacitor
  12. Run Capacitor
To check the selector switch, remove wires from the terminals
and rotate the switch to the proper position and read
continuity as follows:
Terminals Switch Position
L-1-3 Lo Heat
L-1 Lo Fan
L-2 Hi Fan
L-1-4 Lo Cool
L-2-4 Hi Cool


Compressor Motor
The compressor motor is located inside the hermetic
compressor housing and therefore not accessible for service or
visual observation in the field. However, the motor winding
condition can be analyzed by using an ohm meter. Be sure to
remove all the leads from the compressor terminals before
making this check.
1) If the resistance between any two terminals is 0
ohms, the motor windings are shorted.
2) If the resistance between any terminal and the
compressor housing is anything but infinity, the
winding is grounded.
3) If the resistance between any two terminals is
infinity, the winding is open.
On a good compressor, the highest resistance will be between
the R (run) and S (start) terminals. The lowest resistance will
be between the C (common) and R (run) terminals. The
intermediate resistance will be between the C (common) and
S (start) terminals. Notice that compressors have the
identification of the terminals marked on either the terminal
cover or on the compressor housing.

Capacitor Check
There are several capacitor test devices available. The ohm
meter is one of them. The ohm meter cannot verify a
capacitors MFD (microfarrad) value. However, the following
procedures will show you how to use an ohm meter to
determine if the capacitor is good, open, shorted or grounded.
Before testing any capacitor, always perform the following
procedure:
* This test must be done with a analog type meter.
a) Disconnect all electrical power to the air conditioner.
b) Discharge the capacitor with a 20,000 ohm (approx.
3 watt) resistor or larger.
c) You may discharge capacitors with a standard volt
meter if you use a scale over 500 volts and touch the
leads (one lead to each side of the capacitor). The
volt meter will discharge the capacitor.
d) Identify and disconnect the wiring from the
capacitor.
e) Set and zero the ohm meter on the “highest” scale.
When testing for a good, open or shorted capacitor,
perform the following checks: Place the ohm meter
leads across the capacitor terminals (one lead on
each terminal) and perform a continuity test. Then
observe the action of the meter needle or indicator.
Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same. Note: If the capacitor had not been
properly discharged, a false reading could be
indicated on the first test. Always test several times
(reversing the leads with each test). This will verify
the capacitors condition.
Good Capacitor
If the capacitor is good, the indicator will move from infinity
(the left side), towards zero ohms and slowly return back to
infinity. Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same.

Start Capacitor
Most models use a start capacitor and a start relay to give the
compressor high starting torque. The compressor will,
therefore, start against normal pressure difference (head
pressure minus suction pressure) even when shut down for a
short period of time. The start relay will disconnect the start
capacitor when the motor reaches approximately 75%
running speed.
Start (Potential) Relay
The start relay consists of –
1) Normally closed contacts internally between
terminals #1 and #2 which switch in the start
capacitor in parallel to the run capacitor during shut
down and then switch out the start capacitor when
the motor reaches approximately 75% normal
running speed.
2) A high voltage coil internally between terminals #5
and #2 to actuate the contacts. The coil is too weak
on line voltage to actuate the contacts, but it is
connected in series with the start winding and it gets
the generated voltage of the start winding portion of
the compressor motor. This generated voltage is
much higher than line voltage and varies with the
speed of the motor. Therefore, since the relay is
designed to open the contacts at 75% of normal
running voltage (measured between terminals #5 and
#2), the contacts will open (thus disconnect the start
capacitor) at approximately 75% of normal running
speed.
(B) Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor
(Commonly Known As PTCR Start
Device)
The resistor acts like a potential relay in that it takes the start
capacitor out of the start circuit, but uses resistance of
electrical flow (back EMF from compressor) instead of
opening a set of contacts. The service person should be careful
handling the resistors. They will be hot during operation (up
to 160 degrees F). The air conditioner needs to be off for 3-5
minutes during cycle time and when servicing to let the
resistor cool down.

191413c.jpg
That covers everthing.
Please rate this a fixya

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2 Answers

Short Cycling


COMPRESSORS HAVE AN INTERNAL T-STAT TO PROTECT THE WINDINGS ... SOME THING IS CAUSING YOUR COMPRESSOR TO RUN "HOT" THIS WILL KICK "IN & OUT" THE COMPRESSOR DURING COLLING OPERATION AND HEAT MODE (IF IT IS A HEAT-PUMP). 1ST THING TO EASILY CHECK IS THE CONDENSOR "OUT-SIDE" COIL. (CLEN BOTH WHILE YOU ARE AT IT). THESE FANS PULL THE AIR IN AND A BLOW OUT THE COIL .... ALL THE DIRT WILL BE ON THE INSIDE. 2ND THING IS THE FAN ITSEL OVER HEATING AN TURNING "OFF" ON ITS OWN "BUILT-IN POTECTION T-STAT". THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE IRRATIC OPERATION YOU ARE DESCRIBEING. I TEND TO THINK IT IS YOUR FAN MOTOR ... EASY TEST. TURN "OFF" EVERYTHING BUT THE FAN. SET IT FOR MANUAL "RUN ALL THE TIME" POSITION. THE FAN SHOULD NOT KICK OFF !!! IF IT DOES YOU FOUND THE PROBLEM. IF IT DOES TURN OFF IT CAN BE A WEAK CAPACITOR. UNITS VARY ON WETHER THE CAPACITOR IS FOR COMPRESSOR/FAN OR HAS A SEPERATE CAPACITOR FOR EACH. CAPACITORS ARE NOT EXPENSIVE. HOPE THAT CAN NARROW YOUR PROBLEM DOWN

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