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ACF3355AW oven burner does not light. It seems to have a low humming sound after the temperature has been set and start button has been pushed. I think the igniter is probably bad,but don't understand the humming sound. The broiler will start with the same sound.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: GE JGRP17 Gas Oven

Rosanne, he problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to "bake".  When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating.

Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.

First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN OR TURN IT OFF AT THE BREAKER!

To replace it... Remove the racks and look up at the broiler manifold. You'll see the igniter mounted at the rear (the round thing with 2 wires going to it). You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.

(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)

The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter, tuck any loose wires as far back into the oven as possible and replace the racks.

(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)

There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.

Posted on Oct 11, 2007

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: burners on gas stove work but oven and broiler not working

Most ovens, unless they have an electric igniter (does it go tick tick tick when plugged in and turned on? If so, it has an electic ignition.) have a pilot light. In order to keep gas from flowing out, and to prevent a possible explosion when the pilot light has gotten put out, they have an electric thermocouple on them that shuts off the gas when it gets cold. Plug the cord back in, and relight your pilot light by holding the lighter (I recommend a fireplace match or bbq lighter, not a cigarette lighter to prevent singed knuckle hairs!) over the thermocouple for a couple of minutes.

Posted on Nov 19, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Oven and broiler won't heat but stovetop burners work

I have a Frigidaire Model Number GLGF377ASF. The stovetop burners work just fine but the oven and broiler do not work.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

vitg55
  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: Oven/Broiler Igniters for KitchenAid range KGST307

Oven bake ignites usually have lifetime 5-7 years. If igniter glows but gas not came in - replace igniter. Same with broil igniter.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hotpoint oven glowbar not working

My oven glowbar stopped working christmas morning. Yesterday we bought a whirlpool brand (igntr-oven #4342528) because it is twenty something dollars cheaper then GE. My husband installed it today. The only difference is you have to splice the wires (it comes with everthing you need) The first time he put it in it did not work because he had the wires backwards. He switched the wires and now its working fine.
My oven is two years old also.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!


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Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

PLEB30S9DC8 low heat


Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

Mar 20, 2014 | Frigidaire Ovens

1 Answer

Gas oven heats up to proper temperature and then quits heating.


It sounds like you may have a Whirlpool gas range. If so it is more that likely the burner assembly itself. The electrode attached to the burner gets to where it will light during the preheat but then once it starts to cycle the spark module tries three times to light the burner and then shuts down. the burner assembly comes as one unit with the electrode attached.

Nov 28, 2013 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven burner doesn't light. Igniter doesn't light. Boiler burner does light and Igniter does light


Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter, the symptoms usually are: burner won't light, or takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.

Mar 01, 2010 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

I have an Amana AGR5715QDS and when I turn it on and set it for any temperature, lets say 350 degrees, it does not turn on or heat up. The stove top burners still work fine and the door appears to be OK,...


Hi. This sounds like a weak igniter, the symptoms usually are: burner won't light, or takes longer than normal to ignite the burner, may or may not smell gas in the oven, does not maintain set temperature or burner does not come on fully. On gas ovens, a glo igniter is like a light bulb, the more you cook, the faster it wears out. Bottom line, needs to be replaced. Good luck.

Feb 05, 2010 | Amana Ovens

2 Answers

Whirlpool Accubake Super Capacity 465 gas range. Oven won't light


Some gas ranges may take 10 or so minutes to light.
Other than that you may have a defective glow bar ignitor.
If it glows and does not light the reistance in the ignitior has failed.

Feb 25, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Lg lre30451sw oven the start button doesn't work


This happened to me on Christmas Day morning & it happened once before. I finally remembered how I fixed it. Push the "Clear" button & then push the "Start" & keep it held in until you see the lock button light up (takes awhile) & then push the "Clear" button again. After I did this the "Clock" worked again - reset the clock to the correct time & push "Start" Then click on "Bake" set your temperature & push "Start". Hope this works for you. It got me out of cooking Christmas Dinner, but I fixed it today!!

Sep 25, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Burners and oven wont get hot and light wont come on


The input power is incorrect. The neutral connection may be missing

May 22, 2008 | GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven

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