Question about Kenmore Progressive Upright Vacuum with InteliClean System Slate Blue

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When I turn on the unit and push on the level that draws the "arm" back, it immediately shuts off. I return it to the upright position and turn it on again and repeat the process. Same thing happens. Took it to an Oreck repair shop (mistake #1) and they couldn't figure out what was wrong. Any ideas?

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It's a good vacuum. It is really made by Panasonic. You probably just need a new cord. The electronics default to the off mode when power is applied. So if there is a break in the cord, (probably right where it bends all of the time where it enters the vacuum) when you move the vacuum, it will shut off, until you reposition and turn it back on

Posted on Jul 25, 2016

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Seems like there is a short in the unit. it is extremely hard to find kenmore parts. i would probably just go out and buy a new vacuum. Kenmores arent worth fixing.

Posted on Sep 18, 2011

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Dyson DC 25 power shuts off in upright position


To clarify, do you mean the suction and brush motion shut off in the upright position, or that the entire unit shuts off?

If the latter, most Dyson uprights shut off the brush unit in the full upright position and shunt the suction into the handle for use with the accessories. There is also an on/off for the brush, next to the main power button for the DC25. If it's off ( or stuck that way), no brush motion. The manual also notes, 'for use, turn on power and click the foot pedal in back to recline the unit.' (Link to manual here:
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'High Reach Cleaning' section also notes that the brush bar won't rotate when the vacuum is in the full upright position.

If you are completely losing power, the manual notes that the unit will shut off if the bar is jammed, or if there is a significant line blockage that makes the motor overheat. If this is happening, check the accessory line in the handle for blockage.

Good Luck :-)

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Dyson DC25- no suction


When you return the hose the wand will push the flap open, this is normal. if you were to take off your dirt bin youll see a clear dial with a grey arm attached to it. this grey arm is part of the piece your wand pushes open. This clear dial activates your change over valve. There should be a screw and plastic washer in the center of it. These sometimes work loose. You can try turning the dial by hand with the hose out and see if this changes anything.

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there will be a linkage that as come loose and not operating the limit switch to turn it off, try looking at 23. Idler Clamp Assembly on the link below.
http://www.vacpartswarehouse.com/Eureka-4870-Ultra-Smart-Vac-s/1928.htm

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Hard to push


There may be a dial or something to set your unit to "floor" or low, and "High", all for the type of carpet or flooring you are vacuuming... change the setting to the middle or "floor"/ low.

On the other hand, here is a silly experience we may be sharing- sometime these units have wheels set so that, when the unit is "parked" or upright, wheels come down in the back, thus pushing the front down. You can turn it on, but the wheels won't go back into the unit until you move the handle from the upright position... My ex spent 15 minutes trying to get the vacuum to be normal- and all she had to do was just get the handle back at 2 or 4 o'clock position, and it worked fine...
if that's what you did- you aren't the only one! :-)

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The control arm spring in the front of the head unit wont stay in when i push the red thing on back to start vacumming!! help!!


Hi there,

If you're referring to the locking arm, which holds the cleaner head in position when the cleaner is standing upright, I can reassure you that it's designed to disengage when you recline the cleaner into the vacuuming position. By doing so, it allows the cleaner head to pivot freely as you steer the machine around obstacles, maintaining close contact with the floor surface for optimum performance.

However, if this is not the component you're referring to, it's probably best if you get in touch with us directly. One of our experts will be happy to run through some troubleshooting over the phone with you, and recommend the best course of action. You can call us free on 08002980298 (UK), or 1866MYDYSON (US).

Kind regards,

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Turn the cleaner off and then on again to determine whether the cause of no suction resulted from the activation of the automatic shut-off. There are two reasons a tank will automatically shut off. The first is if the recovery tank is full. Located on the lower front panel of the unit, the recovery tank can be easily emptied and replaced into position. To remove from unit, press down on the release button and pull the tank downward and forward. Lift up on the tank latch lid and take out the tank lid. Empty the tank. Also check the tank lid screen for debris and remove any found. To replace the lid, align the tab that corresponds to the front hole of the tank. Snap the latches on the back of the tank. Insert the bottom of the tank back into the cleaner and push in and up until it locks in place.
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    Bissell proheat turbo 2x upright cleaner -how do I reassmeble?



    Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

    I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

    (In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)


    Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

    Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

    Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

    Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

    Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

    Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

    Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

    NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

    Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

    If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

    Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

    Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

    Good luck!

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