I start typing and maybe a couple of minutes later the hammer just doesn't seem to make contact, and therefore no print displayed.

Check the:
- Wheel nuts for proper torque.
- Check the main hub nut.
- Inspect the front disc pads.
- Front wheel bearings.

Hammer sticking and typing incorrect letters (and or skipping letters): 1) make sure daisy wheel installed correctly. 2) hold down CODE key & Q (RESET) to reset wheel...if still not corrected 3) WD40 the hammer at the base & joints where moving parts are, keep typing until oil seeps in (this last one fixed it for me)

Typing light and inconsistant-top part of letter okay but bottom too light or not there: to left of hammer (at base) are 2 screws, I losened them and adjusted hammer to different forward and backward spots..finally found the ideal location where full letter printed and had the correct force it needed to print correctly.

open it and check screws. anything that vibrates will sooner or later loosen internal screws. maybe put a locking ring on it if u find it
ManualsLib Makes it easy to find manuals online
serach here for service manual .

That is indeed most likely a stick float.
A percussive type repair may do the trick here.
(hit it with something hard)
My favorite knockometer set for this purpose is a wooden dowel (1/2 inch or more in diameter) placed against the float bowl, coupled with a lightweight attitude adjuster (hammer).
A few short raps usually will do the trick.
Be careful - those bowls are aluminum, and you don't want to break them!
Hit it like you are STARTING a nail, not driving it into the wood (if you get my meaning)

A bike of that vintage does not surprise me that it only starts with the choke.
If one cylinder is flooding, it also doesn't surprise me that it bogs and fails shortly after!

If the percussive attitude adjustment doesn't solve the issue, you'll have to at the very least take off the float bowl and clean or replace the float needle or fix the float itself.

I`ve ecountered this problem a few times. It can be nerve racking and enough to drive you mad. The problem lies in the DISTRIBUTOR assembly. The electronic coils and ignition module get weak and break down as load increases. I would have the Distributor looked at. This is a common problem with these bullet-proof cars..

yes it makes sense but doesnt always work.definitely sounds like starter is bad.

Sometime with old compressors it takes timke to get started if the weather too hbot outside. the unit is too old and next time try to hit the comp. few times if you do not have test unit. with hammer and see if it will work if it does you need to replace it.

When it does start does it seem to hesitate or have a louder hum than normal upon startup? Please write back with the model number and I can further assist you. The vibration from the dryer being on could be disconnecting the power behind the plug in the wall. turn off breaker to that dryer and make sure connections are good to the outlet...I have seen this happen before. If it seems slow to start when it does start and make a hesitating humming sound before it gets going your motor maybe going on overload and shutting off. Therefore you would need a new motor....please let me know...

it prints for about two minutes then starts slowing down and then stops printing showing an error of : hammer voltage 2