Had the same problem myself - another example of a product made to break!
Red Caboose has it spot on. Just a couple of points. The thread on the motor shaft is a 4mm machine screw. the shaft thickens a little bit below the thread (very short) forming a slight collar. I put a washer (slightly larger that the width of the blade) onto this, followed by the blade. You''ll then need a washer to sit into the blade to centre it on the shaft. Follow this with a cup washer (as Red Caboose) suggests or a locknut. Working perfectly now!
The hub retaining the blade is screwed to the motor shaft. You have to remove the base (very difficult); it snaps into the body so you can get a screwdriver on the end of the motor shaft so you can loosen the hub. After that, find an assortment of washers that will center the blade and exert enough pressure to lock in on the motor shaft. A cup washer works the best.
The solutions from andrumac and red caboose were very helpful (especially popping off the base, which does take some force). After trying to find the right combination of washers, etc, I finally decided to use JB weld (any epoxy should work) and epoxied the blade back to the little hub it was originally attached to. I'll find out tomorrow morning if this solution worked.
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Those little, high speed grinders do not respond well to that sort of thing. Many do not advise running more than 30 seconds at a time as they will overheat. Yours had a stone lodged so that the motor couldn't turn so the fan blades on the motor couldn't cool the motor either. I suspect it's time for a new one as repairs would likely cost more than it would cost to replace.
The lawnmowers electric motor has a bad spot on the armature. You need to replace the electrical brushes that contact the motor. If you are lucky you may just need to clean them and reinsert them in to brush holders.
Unfortunately this probably means that the AC Motor within the device has shorted out. These motors will still allow the blade/shaft to move even if a fault has occurred. It is unlikely, but possible that this particular model is built in such a way that a replaceable fuse is accessible to the operator. More then likely however the motor will have 'burnt' out and will no longer function no matter what you try.
Try to check the power cord for nicks and check that the outlet functions correctly. Lastly check that the power switch is properly operational. If all of this seems in working order then you are stuck with a non-functional device.
Have you tried to hoover up the grinds from time to time, from the grinder blades. The coffee beans and ground can gather under the blades from over time. It should not be a problem though.
For better crema you may want to replace the blades.You should replace every 3-6 years. Rancilio Rocky Grinder Flat blades
I am assuming you refer to the spinning of the motor, but not the grinding mechanism? Often times, the blade, grinder, or whatever does the actual work is on a shaft from the motor. There is a 'shear pin' through the blade, &tc which not only holds it on the shaft, but causes it to turn. If something jams the cutting part, the pin 'shears' off, to protect the motor from burning out. It sounds like that is what has happened to your grinder. The shear pin bits must be removed from the grinder and the motor shaft and a new one inserted. Usually, a common 'roll pin' will make a suitable substitute. Just make sure it is the proper diameter for a tight fit.
The motor shaft spins, but the blade, &tc does not turn.
the shear pin, which goes through the grinder blade base and the motor shaft has 'sheared' off the protect the motor from overload. The metal bits of the pin need to be removed from both the grinder part and the shaft, a new one inserted. It is a 'pressed fit', so it will be hard to remove.
After the bits are removed, a common 'roll pin' of the proper diameter should be a suitable replacement
Just put a wrench on the nut on the opposite side to hold the spindle. They will both tighten at the same time. Tighten them "snug". The threads are made so the nuts will self tighten or should I say will not come loose due to the way the wheels turn and pressure from use is applied.
Its a fault with these machines. The blade is fixed on a plastic mounting (the black hemisphere you can see on top of the blade) and this seems to wear quite quickly. So the blade is not fixed to the shaft! To fix - you have to access the end of the motor shaft. To do this, pull the base out as far as it goes(15-20mm) insert a flat screwdriver into the barbed flaps on the central plastic shaft and push gently to release (not the easiest of jobs!) once released you should see the end of the motor shaft with a flat slot. Now, you can unscrew the capping nut holding the blade. I replaced the blade assembly with the following: First, 15mm OD washer with 4mm hole onto shaft. This should sit on the shaft at the bottom of the thread. Then the blade. You'll need a washer that sits into the hole in the blade to center it on the shaft. This washer needs to be slightly thinner that or the same thickness as the blade. Thesn another 15mm washer over this followed by a lock nut or cap nut to secure. This worked perfectly for me.
Called Cuisinart - they said to remove the basket ( I unplugged and then used pliers to move the blade/shaft up and down until it wiggled loose ) ... use soap and water to remove coffee oil (the real problem) and then pour a little vegetable oil into the female end where the motor engages the grinder blade to lubricate.
Insert a small standard screwdriver in the slot in the center of the bottom. Turn the blade slowly until you feel the screwdriver catch in the slot. This holds the motor still so you can simply unscrew the blade counter-clockwise. Do the same to hold the motor from turning while you screw the new blade on clockwise.