Lefty-loosey (counter-clockwise). There will be space on the inside of the blade for another wrench to hold the shaft while you loosen the nut. If you've never done it, then you might want a pair of gloves; the blade might be dull on wood, but it'll be sharp on hands!
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I am assuming that you mean the generator head from the engine. If this is so, 1st remove the end cover from the gen. head. You will see a bolt that goes through the rotor shaft to the engine shaft. The engine his a tapered shaft, that the gen head bolts to. 2) Remove the long bolt from the rotor shaft. 3) Remove the 4 long bolts that hold the housing ends together. 4) cut a length of rod that is smaller in diameter than the rotor shaft bolt and about 1/2 inch shorter. This will be used as a push rod to separate the engine shaft from the rotor shaft. 5) There are threads at the beginning(inside) of the rotor shaft. Most likely metric. Find the right size bolt, approx. 1" long. Screw in until contact with the push rod. (If possible, use an impact wrench to make it easy.) Tighten til the shafts "pop loose." One suggestion to keep the engine from rotating while doing this is to remove the spark plug, stick a length of small rope down the hole, leaving some hanging out, rotate engine until piston packs against the rope and stops the rotation. 6)now that the gen head is removed, the engine mounting end can be removed. Good luck.
There is a hole in the brake/clutch cover (that you take off when you change your chain) under the attachment bolts through which a bolt protrudes. Use a small screw driver or the wrench that comes with the saw to turn this bolt (it has a slot in it) to either tighten or loosen the chain.
Hello, I would not advise you to adjust the speed without a frequency meter. for 220 volt operation, you will have to use the twist - lock receptacles and not use the neutral in the receptacle. This means one of the generator's hot leads is going to be the neutral in your system. The frame of the generator may be connected to the neutral of the generator, so be careful so that you do not receive an electrical shock. The voltage is adjusted within the receptacle box. There might be a small hole on the right side of the receptacle box that you can insert a small blade screwdriver into to make the voltage adjustment. You do not need to change this much to change the voltage.
Now, the frequency is adjusted by a self-locking nut located under the air cleaner right side, when facing the engine. There is a spring on this nut / bolt assembly. I think it is a 5/16 nutdriver or socket that you need for this. Turn counter clockwise 1/8 of a turn. This will slow down the generator to about 50 - 55 hz. This is okay if you are running at around 52 hz. As the generator loads, the rpm will drop down. A frequency meter would be great to use here, as a too low rpm could burn out electrical motors and other equipment that you are using.
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Here is a copy of the owners manual and it has an exploded diagram that you can follow to remove the generator part. When you take off the back mount and then you will see inside a coil that rotates, this is the rotor, and a coil that is stationary around the rotor, this is the stator. Make sure that you take good photos and mark all wires that you disconnect, this helps in re-assembly later. To remove the back support called the brush head, you need to remove 4 long bolts and one in the center that holds the rotor to the engine. Gently tap the brush head away from the stator with a small hammer. You might need a small blade screwdriver to pry, remember GENTLE is the word here. Now, you might have to block up the stator so that it is supported since the brush head is removed. The stator might need some gentle prying to remove it from the engine. When pulling the stator off, be careful that you do not drag it on the rotor, this might damage the rotor. With the long bolt that held the rotor to the engine, screw it in and leave about 1/8" of it out so that the head does not make contact with the rotor shaft. Now with a small hammer, strike the head of the bolt while at the same time pulling on the rotor towards the head of the bolt. The rotor should come loose and you remove the bolt and pull the rotor off gently. To install, you never need to use the hammer to mount the parts.
Here is how I did it. First unscrew the bolt holding the armature to the crank. Measure the bolt length and thread sizing(mine was 5/16-24) Go to menard's or any hardware store and buy a piece of un-threaded rod the same diameter. Buy a die so you can thread the end of the rod. cut the rod one inch shorter than the bolt length and make a kerf in the end for a screw driver blade. Now measure the inside diameter of the armeture hole( mine was 3/8) I then took a 7/16 tap and threaded the end of the armeture. Now screw in the rod you made, then screw a bolt into the end of the armeture and this will push the armeture off the crank without damaging it.
no fuse, you can checked the brush holder assy by poping the assy out & checked the bronze terminal if broken.if the holder are ok. check for continuity of the field coil main ac coil & brake coil, main are bigger wire the brake are smaller wire.
No they are right handed thread just correded on. What I would try is heating the bolt up then spraying W.D. 40 on it let it set for 5 mins then try breaking it loose. Just one thing spray the W.D. 40 while its hot but not near a flame.