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Flame quit...do not see any bulb.can this be replaced? Thank-you

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Sue, if you're referring to an Electric Fireplace Heater or Electric Wood Stove look heater, yes you can replace the bulbs. But, I would need to know who the manufacturer is and the model number.

Rich

Posted on Mar 22, 2011

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My heater lights but turns off in a few seconds. error code ID


Just an idea, the gas goes bad in the line if the heater has been unused for a few months, I bleed the line at the valve. this is a common problem with motorhomes.
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OR check to see the flame is hitting the bulb, it might have got bumped during cleaning.
but if the unit just up and quit, the thermocouple might have gone bad, and need replacing, and on some units can be a cheap easy fix.
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My heat surge will beep and light will blink


maybe the thermal fuse. $1.78 today at Radio Shack or
As to the cold air problem, it's most likely broken a wire in the heater coil, which makes it non-functional. This is an easily replaceable part by any Heat Surge repair station. If you care to try it yourself, you'll need a new bi-metal heater, part #30000216, $24.95. A site called TotalVac.com has them for that price. If there are any seriously blackened or charred connections they should be replaced also. The flame not rolling could be a stuck shaft on the little motor that runs the flame rod. If you're careful you can reach up in through the bulb access panel and find the flame rod, I would take the bulbs out or at least unscrew them part way so they are not lit. They get quite hot and if you lay your arm against one it won't feel good. So, after you've unscrewed the bulb nearest the right hand end, reach up in behind the screen and find the flame shaft, work your way over to the right end of it and you should feel the motor connection. Try to turn the shaft while the unit is on and the lights should be running, if it feels like it's trying to run but just can't quite make it, then it could just be dirty. Disassembly to get to it to take it off for replacement or repair is quite lengthy so you might want to have that done by a professional repair shop. I think that motor is about the same cost, right around the $24 area.

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The flame effect quit working in my Brittany Electric Stove Heater, Model #BESBY-1500. How can I replace or repair the flame effect?


Typically the flame effect is accomplished when a motor turns a rod with polished metal strips on it. The strips then reflect the light onto the back of the glass. The the rod rotates, the reflection moves giving the effect of the flames moving. If the lights work on your unit then the motor has most likely stopped. It would need to be replaced. A quick internet search turned up nothing for that company so you may need to go back to the store where you purchased the unit to get the part. Once you have the part, you will need to disassemble the unit. Some units are simple (like removing the fake logs) and some units are more involved (like removing access panels from the back or bottom).

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Light and flame effect not coming on dimplex springborne electric stove.


The light bulbs that provide the flame effect, may have burned out. You can access the bulbs by remove a rectangular access panel on the back of the stove, just above the bottom edge of the stove. Be sure to turn the unit OFF and unplug it before attempting the bulb replacement. The bulb type is 60 watt, small base, clear chandelier bulb.

I hope this helps you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Jul 25, 2011 | Dimplex Compact Electric Flame Stove...

1 Answer

The bulb was out so I replaced it but the new one is not lighting up,I can hear the motor going for the flame effect but I hav'nt got any light,have tried 3 bulbs,what shall I do next?


Well, Shirley, you have quite a mystery here. I suspect that the flame affect circuit may have cut out. Turn the Master ON/OFF switch to OFF and unplug the unit for 12 to 15 minutes. Doing this will give he unit a chance to reset itself. If that doesn't solve your problem contact Dimplex USA, Technical Service 888-346-7539 for further advice.

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I have a Maytag gas over/stove, Model number MGR5755QDW. The broiler heats, but the oven does not. What are the possible causes and how do I troubleshoot?


If you are having problems with the oven, the first thing to do is figure out if you have a pilot light system or a glow bar system.
Problems with the pilot light system.....The flame has gone out, re-light the pilot. The pilot flame will not light - possible oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's a internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.
Problems with the glow bar system.....You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.
The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works -click here.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Jan 26, 2010 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Kenmore gas oven model no. 273 3248296 pilot free ignition wont fire up


Hi

If it won’t fire then it is possible that the oven control is not sending gas for the pilot light. The pilot light works but no main burner ignition - possible pilot assembly is dirty and the pilot flame is too small, safety valve and thermocouple is faulty, the bulb from the safety valve is out of position and the pilot flame is not touching the thermocouple bulb. Some ranges use a standing pilot light ( small flame is on all the time ) while others use an spark ignition to light the pilot light flame and the pilot light flame heats up the thermocouple bulb to allow the main gas to flow through the oven burner.
The flame needs to heat the bulb up enough to tell it to open the gas valve. Several things can go wrong here that keep this from happening:
The pilot flame may not be hot enough, usually because the flame is yellow instead of pure blue or is too small. The cause for this is usually a dirty pilot assembly. The pilot assembly would either need to be cleaned or replaced.
The thermocouple bulb may not be positioned properly in the flame. You can't heat the bulb properly if it's not in the pilot flame! The thermocouple bulb needs to be in the upper third of a pure blue pilot flame--that's the hottest part of the flame.
The thermocouple itself may be burned out. It happens. It's an internal part of the gas valve so, no, you can't just change the thermocouple bulb separate from the gas valve.
But when you turn on the oven or the thermostat calls for heat, the pilot flame gets bigger and jumps down so it can heat up the thermocouple bulb. This extra gas to increase the pilot flame size comes from the thermostat.
If the pilot flame jumps upwards or just gets bigger, but doesn't shoot down, then you need to replace the pilot assembly.
If the pilot flame size does not increase or jump down when turning on the oven thermostat, then the problem is the thermostat not sending enough gas to the pilot assembly. It's also possible that the pilot gas supply tube has a hole in it somewhere.
One final point on the spark-assisted pilot ignition systems. The spark comes from the spark module--the same module that sends spark to your surface burners to light them up. If you're not getting a spark when you turn the oven on, then there are several possibilities:
There could be a problem with the switch in the thermostat. You can confirm this by doing a simple continuity test of the thermostat contacts. If you don't read zero ohms when you turn the switch on, replace the thermostat.
The spark module could be bad. You'll need to measure the voltage at the oven terminals of the spark module when you turn on the oven. If you get 120v but no spark, it's probably a bad spark module. Replace it.
Could be a bad spark wire or broken electrode.

Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Sep 10, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

3 Answers

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See if the thermal bulb is in the flame, if not gently bend the bulb so that it is in the flame if that does not solve the problem you will have to replace the bulb to the igniter.

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