I've disassembled my JP8100CB, ordered a new thermal cut-off switch but in advertently lost my wiring diagram. Does anyone have the correct wiring for this? Also question on thermal cut-off switch, if not the is switch why won't this iron heat up is? Tested for continuity and it tested okay but.... Would the actual element go bad??

try to reduse the temperature setting first, if it still does the same then the thermal switch mechanism is not cutting off the switch at proper temperature
need to replace the thermal switch mechanism

The best water to use is water that does not contain minerals. Distilled water, can be used in your iron for years without causing any buildup or clogs.

Hope helps.

http://www.oreck.com/PUG/IRONMANUAL-JP8100.pdf

Download this manual .

You can download the manual from the manufacturer's web site at
http://www.oreck.com/PUG/IRONMANUAL-JP8100.pdf

Return the iron.

I have a DE-05 that needs a new cord and cleaning of steam discharge holes. I'll be gald to take photos and send them to you if you'll share your source for parts and method of disassembly. Contact me at chuxbizAThotmail.com, just replace the AT with @.

Thanks,
Chuck Jones

This is a problem with a lot of Rowenta irons. It is the auto shut off that is not working properly and the only way to fix it is to have it disassembled and the switch hardwired to be on whenever the iron it plugged in. It is a thermal metal switch and it just stops working and then the iron will not turn on and the yellow light blinks.

I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:

- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.

I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.

I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.

This is a problem with a lot of Rowenta irons. It is the auto shut off that is not working properly and the only way to fix it is to have it disassembled and the switch hardwired to be on whenever the iron it plugged in. It is a thermal metal switch and it just stops working and then the iron will not turn on and the yellow light blinks.

try here...
http://www.oreck.com/customer-service/owners-guides.cfm