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Anonymous Posted on Mar 21, 2011

I have a T104 timer that runs my pool pump. I also have a switch that lets me turn on the pump from my house. The switch is wired to the timer. I switched out the T104 with the same and I think I messed up the wiring. Can you set me straight? Also how do you wire a "jumper" from one timer to the other( pool sweep to pool pump? Thanks for the advice!!

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2011

    I have another timer same model number, power is 240 V . I want the "jumper" to switch the pool pump on when the sweep goes on.

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  • Posted on Mar 21, 2011
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The instructions are available from Intermatic if you click on the below link.

http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/t104%20-%20english.ashx

240 volts will have two 120 volt lines and a ground(green or bare) or neutral (white) wire.

If your system is 240 volts the Red and Black wires are hot should be individually connected, one to terminal 1 and the second color to terminal 3. The load or pump in your case should be connected to terminal 2 and 4. If you want to wire a switch to the load you need to decide on how you want the switch act, 1) as an auxiliary on 2) as an emergency off. If you want an auxiliary on for the pump, you need a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) 40amp switch (what should be in the house). Run the appreciate gage of wire (AWG 8 for 40A) from terminal 1 to one pole of the switch and a wire from terminal 3 to the second pole of your switch. Next run wires from the switch contacts from the two remaining switch terminals to terminals 2 and 4 on the timer matching the Red side on the switch to and Red on the timer and Black side on the switch to Black on the timer. The timer will control the function of the pump, and the switch will turn the pump on when the timer is off. If you only have two hot wires coming from the house attach them to terminal 2 and 4. If you want an emergency stop you need to wire a second DPDT 40amp switch and disconnect the load wires from terminal 2 and 4 and connect each one to the opposite poles of the switch. Using the correct gage of wire you need to connect a red and black wire to the two separate terminals of the switch. When the switch is off the pump will not work but the timer will keep the current time. The color of wires may not be the same in that situation you will need a multi meter to identify the wires.

I need a little more information on the pool sweep timer. Are you using the same timer or just the power? Is the power 120 or 240 volts? When do you want the pool sweep to be active?

  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2011

    This is a bit of a problem since you will need a logic switch so the pump timer will not turn on the pool sweep. I do not know if one is available since I do not have a pool. If it was my pool, I would design a solid state logic switch due to my electrical engineering background. However, it would be easier to explain to you how to connect a relay to the output of the pool sweep timer. Purchase a relay with 120 volt coil DPDT(Double Pole Double Throw) DPST(Double Pole Single Throw) with 40A contacts.
    Connect the Red and Black wires in the same way as the pump, one to terminal 1 and the second color to terminal 3. The load or pool sweep in your case should be connected to terminal 2 and 4. Run the appropriate gage of wire (AWG 8 for 40A) from terminal 2 of the pool sweep timer to one pole of the relay. Connect a wire from terminal 4 of the pool sweep timer to the second pole of the relay. Run one lower gage wire (14AWG) from Terminal 2 or 4 of the pool sweep timer to one of the relay coil terminals. Connect the second relay coil terminal to ground or neutral. Connect the appropriate gage of wire (AWG 8 for 40A) from terminal 2 of the pump timer to the lower Normally Open contact of the relay. Connect the appropriate gage of wire (AWG 8 for 40A) from terminal 4 of the pump timer to the second lower Normally Open contact of the relay. When the pool sweep is turned on one of the 120 lines will close the relay and turn on the pump. The pool pump will not feed back to the pool sweep turning it on. If you want me to draw a diagram email me, and I will draw one up and send it to you.

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Intermittent Intermatic Pool Timer T40003RT3 The pool timer is 220v but only one 110v 20amp breaker in the breaker box to the pool equipment and when it is off the pump will not run in manual mode.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Intermatic-control-centers.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic-control-centers-and-manuals.html#RT3

RT3 series has T104 240 volt timer -or- T103 120 volt timer, -plus- low voltage transformer for pool light.
The circuit breaker can be used for transformer, or another outlet or nearby light etc, or it can be used for a T103 120 volt timer.
To trace the wire back to breaker box.... open you main panel and start turning off breakers one at a time and label the panel.
See if you have single breaker or double breaker supplying power to pool equipment.
Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

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Model number of timer is not known.
Is this new installation? Or installation that worked before and recently stopped working?
If the manual override lever on timer does not turn Load on-off, then 1) wiring is wrong or 2) timer has gone bad or 3) pump has a short.
I suspect a short since you say the pump 'tries to stop running.'
Copy following links for troubleshoot walk-thru, and correct wiring:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

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No. I don't have a wiring schematic without knowing what voltage you are using, specifically what Intermatic timer you have, specifically what wires you have coming from breaker box, what wires are on the pump, and what pump rating plate says, what the wiring diagram shows on side of pump, whether you are wiring a 2-speed pump to a single-speed timer, specifically what is the polaris timer clock, and why this pump needs two timers if that's what you mean.
Add a comment with specific information so electrician is not guessing.
http://www.poolcenter.com/polaris-booster-install-OM.pdf

Open following link for 240Volt T104 timer wiring diagram.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
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Sounds like 240Volt WG1573 clock motor has gone bad and needs replacement. But more checking is needed.

You posted under T2100-4R which is 60 amp Intermatic control panel with a single T104M 240Volt timer mechanism.
All Intermatic timer mechanisms can fit into same control center, so you can possibly have different timer mechanism inserted into the T2100-4R control center.
The control center can have up to 4 circuit breakers.
Instruction manual shows that timer can also have fireman's switch that is wired to pool heater and causes pool heater to turn off 20 minutes before pool pump turns off.
http://www.poolandspacontrols.com/products/mechanical%20controls/60%20amp%20pool%20and%20spa%20control%20panels.aspx

(1) First thing: If you have T104 mechanism, do a troubleshoot run-down to see if trippers, clock motor, or wiring are suspect:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html

(2) Next would be to check the circuit breakers for loose wires, burned connections, or the smell of burning or crackling sound that says breaker is loose on the busbar.

(3) Check for loose wiring on T104 and test circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html
(a) Push the manual override lever to OFF position and test across terminals 1 and 2 and then across terminals 3 and 4 to make sure timer is turning off power to pump. Both tests should show 0 volts.
(b) Push manual override lever to to ON position and repeat test above. Both tests should show 240 volts.
If the test fails, then buy new T104M timer mechanism.

(4) If the T104 timer is turning off both lines in the 240Volt circuit, then pump cannot turn on since neither wire is Hot.
However if your T104 timer is actually a T101 timer or if timer has different wiring, where timer is turning off only 1 leg and not both legs of 240Volt circuit, then pump has one hot wire available and a short to ground could cause pump to turn on unexpectedly.
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I bought a house that had an intermatic t104 running timer running the pool pump. It worked for a little while then the clock stopped turning. The manual switch still worked to turn on the pool. I...

If you only have a Black wire, White wire and a ground wire, you are only wired for 120 volts. For 240 volts you have to have two Black wires or a Black and a Red as well as a White (neutral) and a ground.
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Open following link for wiring diagrams and manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html

240Volt T104 can be wired many different ways.
What is the significance of 'next to the pool pump timer?'
Are you getting power off the 240V pool pump timer to operate the new T104? This is perfectly fine. The pool pump wires would bring power from the breaker box.
Is the new T104 going to control 120Volt lights? The timer can do that, it just has to be wired correctly.
In any case, the T104 has 240Volt (or 277V) clock motor, and clock will not operate with 120V

If you add specific details, I can help with exact wiring diagram for your project.
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1) Fireman's switch automatically turns off heater few minutes before turning off pump.
Not all pool timers have fireman's switch.
If old timer did not have it, then don't worry about it.
P1353 has wires marked for fireman's switch, so simply don't use them if you don't want to.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Intermatic-P1353-manual.pdf
page 21 of manual shows wiring for fireman's switch.

2) T104 and P1353 comparison
Difference 1: T104 turns OFF both hot wires, while P1353 turns Off 1 hot wire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Compare-120-and-240.html
Difference 2: T104 controls 1 240V load with 1 time schedule, while P1353 controls 3 different 240V loads, each with different time schedule.
Check that wire(s) coming from breaker can handle all 3 loads.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html

3) 240Volt T104 is wired as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/T-104-240-Volt-400.jpg
Hot1 from breaker connects to T104 terminal 1
Hot2 from breaker connects to T104 terminal 3
There is constant power on terminals 1 and 3, each terminal has 120V when combined makes the 240V circuit.
Load1 wire connects to T104 terminal 2
Load2 wire connects to T104 terminal 4
Terminals 2 and 4 have power whenever timer turns ON

4) Definition:
In electric wiring, Line means power from breaker, and Load means wire going to light,fan, motor, pump.

5) Converting T104 to P1353
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/P1353-timer-350.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/P1353-terminals-566.jpg
Hot1 from breaker connects to P1353 terminal 1
Hot2 from breaker connects to P1353 terminal 2
This will power timer electronics and timer clock and switches.

Jumper wire is placed from Hot1 at terminal 1 to each Line terminals 3 5 and 7.
This will put power at the switch, and when switch turns ON, then power will flow from Line wires to Load wires and then on to the Load.
Load 1 connects to terminal 4, Load 2 connects to terminal 6, Load 3 connects to terminal 8
To complete each 240V circuit, Hot2 is connected directly to each Load.

6) You say 'salt' system connects to terminals 1 and 3 on T104, then those wires are carrying constant 240V to that device. So Salt system connects to terminals 1 and 2 on P1353

7) Get a second opinion:
I frequently contact Intermatic for various problems.
P1353 is fairly new product, and manual is long, and I might not fully understand your problem or wiring.
Intermatic answers their email.
http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service.aspx

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
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I assume it's an Intermatic T104. I believe this has a 230V motor, which is best for your application. Since you only have 2 hots and a ground I assume you're only switching one leg to the motor. That's why the timer won't run. It need 240V to run the motor. You need 5 wires. Two "hots" coming in, and two going out to the motor along with your equipment grounding conductior (green). This will disconnet all power to the pump when off. Pay attention that you put the two incoming leads on correct terminals which I believe is #1 and #3. That's because those terminals also power the clock. Then connect the motor to #2 and #4 which go to the motor. 1 closes to 2 and 3 closes to 4. The equipment grounding conductor connects to the GR terminal (Green)
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Need wiring diagram for Intermatic 240V Mechanical Time Switch

For anyone else who may be reading this post, these instructions are for the T104 ONLY.
Connect your incoming line) 240 volt wires to terminals #1 and 3. Connect the outgoing 240 volt (load) wires to terminals # 2 and 4. Don't forget to connect both equipment ground wires (bare or green) to the "GR" terminal.
Do NOT connect anything to the "A" terminal.
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