Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
lid switch is broke lever probley broke off or screw holes broke out due to off balance load forcing tub over against switch lever
Posted on May 01, 2008
this sounds like the direct drive coupling between the motor and transmission. very common problem and not very expensive. look under the machine and and between the motor and transmission you will see a round rubber coupling and 2 plastic pieces one on either side; they all connect together to mate the motor and trans without a belt.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
SOURCE: No Spin No Drain
Lid switch is most likely the problem, if lid switch is visible under lid on right side then this is older design and common problem switch.
if you have console frame covers on front sides, snap off from top, a screw is at bottom front corners of console, remove and pull console forward and fold back. If lid swich is hidden then you will see it at left on top of cabinet with console folded back. a 5/16 screw holds a green ground wire to cab. remove and switch will unclip with lid up. If lid switch was visible under lid then you need to remove 2 brass clips holding cabinet on top of base to back, pry with screwdriver to unclip. undo harness connection on cabinet top, this is your lid switch connection. sw body is held by 2 phillips screws, harness tube held by clips on underside of cabinet top. ground wire with 5/16 screw present at sw body. New versions of this switch have metel shield attached.
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
There is a plastic "finger" that is attached to the lid that would normally close the switch when you close the lid. Is it still on the lid? If not, you can go to the sears web site for repair parts. You will need your model number.
Posted on Jul 04, 2009
You can check your transmission if you like, but I think your problem is your lid switch. A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. You should not have to hold the switch closed with a screwdriver to get it to work. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you have questions, or my advice does not match your symptoms, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
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