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Suddenly my Jackaroo engine developed a metal knocking noise while driving it is noticeable when i accesslarate

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Low oil level or a faulty oil pump that needs to be replaced. Checking the oil level on the dip stick will help to give you a clue.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When I was driving my Honda odyssey 2004 ex last night it started to make a noise under the hood and then the van would not accelerate past 100 km/hr. After a while like 10 minutes later the noise stopped...


you developed a knock in the engine, sounds confusing but your engine computer can't separate bad bearing from pre-ignition, engine knock, to cure this your computer retards the spark, to the max to stop the knock, confuses the computer to the max

Jan 19, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clanging noise while running


A rhythmic metal on metal noise in an engine usually follows a classic rule: valves tap and pistons knock. If the noise is rhythmic with the speed of the engine and incrementally increases when the engine speeds up, then it is one of these two issues. All you need to answer in this case is whether your noise is a tap or a knock. On the other hand, if the clanging sounds more like an old diesel engine and increases in volume when the engine accelerates, then the problem is pre-ignition. If the problem is simply pre-ignition, then you will need to check your ignition system, including the knock sensor, crank sensor, and all your spark plugs and coils. This is the simplest thing to do first. Unplug each coil one at a time to verify that the engine loses power for each one. Valve tap can be caused by lifters or a broken valve spring. To diagnose this, you need to remove the valve cover and check the lifters. Are any loose when you try to move them up and down by hand? Engine knock signals that your engine needs to be rebuilt with new piston rods and bearings. It is not a good idea to drive very long with either condition or you could end up causing more damage and get stuck on the side of the road.

May 23, 2012 | 1995 Buick Regal

1 Answer

What is engine knocking noise


Engine knocking noise is that sound from the engine that sounds like a knock. It is caused when there is an increased metal to metal contact, due to friction n wear of parts n it is mostly associated wid insufficient circulation of engine oil to the engine parts hence increase in friction n the noise. It is a warning to be taken seriously or the engine might finally pack up. This is what we finally refer to as a knocked engine. Sometimes in such extreme cases replacement might be d only solution.

Sep 07, 2011 | 2001 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

While driving 2003 santa feengine seemed to have lost acceleration suddenly and engine is making verry loud "knocking" noise. any ideas on where to start looking for noise found engines have hydraulic...


well theres a few places
first would be conecting rods
knock knock
whos there
as the conecting rods blow through the block

might have spun the timing belt a noch

Jan 05, 2010 | 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Knocking noise from rear of car


There are two common known problems with the rear suspension. One problem is the rear spring colliding with the rear lower arm during rebound. This is caused by a lack of support in the rear lower arm and the upper spring seat. The solution is to fit a spring isolator sleeve to prevent the metal to metal knocking. Another common problem is knocking of the top coils of the springs. A revised rear lower arm spring seat has been fitted since 02/2002.



Source: http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=ford_focus_common_problems_and_solutions

Apr 05, 2009 | 2003 Ford Focus

1 Answer

Knocking noise in 3.8 lit 95 ford taurus


You can not put a liquid where metal is supposed to be. Just a general rule of thumb. The high RPM's had been too much for the engine, and A rod bearing, or rod knocking is about the same thing. Dont try the heavier oil thing, I hate when ppl suggest such stuff. Just replace the bearing, or in most cases and cost efficent, the engine.

Jan 15, 2009 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

1997 dodge intrepid making noise


what area of the car does it come from? it could be any of the engine pulleys and hopefully not but could be the rods knocking inside the engine

Jun 21, 2008 | 1997 Dodge Intrepid

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