The motor seems to be working properly. When I removed the covers @ the bottom front and back found fins completely covered with dust. and compressor hot to the touch. Cleaned throughly and left unplugged allowing for cool off. Could I be so lucky??? What should I look for otherwise?
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Get 4 quarts of JASO MA certified motor oil. I recommend synthetic , it will shift better when hot. Amsoil is a good choice. Place an oil pan under the front of the motor. Use a 6 point socket to loosen the bolt on the round finned oil filter cover on the front right corner of the motor and spin it off.Take the oil filter out of the cover and make sure you save the washer that will stick to the rubber seal. Pull bolt out of cover and replace o-ring. put bolt back thru cover, first slide on spring,then washer,and then filter and spin back onto motor pressing filter against engine case. Snug bolt but do not over tighten. Now remove bolt in the middle of the front/bottom of motor(large one in middle , NOT small one under water pump). Check aluminum washer,if bad replace.After oil has drained put bolt back in , do not over tighten.Take off fill plug on right rear corner of motor(by final drive shaft) Using a funnel pour in 4 quarts oil (3.9 is correct amount, 1/10th quart does not seem to bother anything). Put plug back in , start up, and check for leaks.
the plastic covering at the bottom is clipped in. check outside diameter of the cover and u will find the clips. is your activator board in working order? when u have a leak on these units it sometimes causes problems on that lower board.did u put connecters back properly? check these things and reply back 4 more help if needed. good luck.
The de-humidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove
moisture from air to alleviate the problems of mould and mildew. It is
very similar in operation to a window air conditioner.
A dehumidifier though will add heat to the room, while an air conditioner will remove heat.
The de-humidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance.
This may be because it’s icing up, overflowing, not removing enough
moisture, or simply time for a good cleaning to maintain its
efficiency. If you don’t feel handy enough to attempt this project
contact your appliance repairperson.
The following is a step-by-step method used to return your de-humidifiers to its peak efficiency.
1 Multi pocket container (old ice cube tray)
2 Long handled brush
3 Oil can
5 De-greaser or spray detergent
6 Selection of screwdrivers
7 New filter
1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.
2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filer is usually within a
frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If it is
a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are
made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a
filter lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry
detergent. Plug sink drain and turn on hot water. Cover filter with
enough water to submerge. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and
rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.
3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none
proceed to next step. If there is resistance then look for hidden
screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed
place the grille aside until later.
Tip: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use ice cube tray to segregate.
4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover
screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body
color. Usually two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws
are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this
point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put
together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or are screwed to one
another. If front grille lifts off with cover try to separate before
proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of
cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.
5… When cover removed this will expose the heating and cooling coil.
They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very
close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.
Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and
rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending
fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Use caution, the
fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is
removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. There is a good
product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is
meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If
this is not available Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and
bathrooms works quite well. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly
pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any
electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the
motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water.
6… With cover, rear grille, and front grilles removed locate fan motor
for oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body.
Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is
sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are
sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each
drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.
7… Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin
comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening
the fins will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils.
Use caution as these coils are filled with high-pressure refrigerant.
8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.
9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly.
Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any
other exposed surfaces.
10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.
11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. On some models
testing may require temporary override of bucket overflow switch. Test
that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of
operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert
water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.
Try taking the front cover off at the bottom and or the back of the fridge and try vaccuuming underneath. Make sure you unplug in when you do this. Then plug it back in and see if that solved the problem. You have fins and coils underneath that if they get really dirty the fridge will not work properly. Hope this helps
If top is compleatly warm it is probley the fan motor, lot of failures on them. Replacement one will be a different looking motor. Verify motor is not turning, located in the back of the freezer in the top middle, behind small grill. Will see fan blade pointed up, should run whenever compressor is on.
The fan motor must have been stopping. If the fan stops, for sure the fins will freeze because there is no air flowing.
common Fan motor problems defective bearing or bushing and starting condenser. If the bearing is defective, it will heat up and seize.
Have the fan motor checked.
The fact that the fins are freezing, means that there is enough freon and the compressor is working.