Question about Refrigerators
I cannot track the model through the serial. I think we are talking about an Australian model here.
If the evaporator coils were frozen, then it is likely a defrost problem, full-stop. I could invent about electronic faults, but the side by side defrost system is still controlled through the timer, electronic boards will unlikely give as only symptom a frozen evap, while the fridge keeps functioning.
Disconnect power cord and perform full defrost. If the fridge does not restart cooling, even after manually defrosting, then the problem is likely electronic. Concerning either damper system (if present- do not forget I have not tracked the number), or it is electronic. A defective compressor is unlikely the problem because it won't have cooled at all, and the evap. coils won't have frozen.
If you find out that the fridge is working after manual defrost, then check only the parts concerned when there are defrost system problems.
Check if the fridge has double evaporator. Some new side by side have two evaporator coils that work together, one behind freezer firewall and one behind fridge. If there is dual evaporator for fridge and freezer there are two elements and thermostats to check. In that case there is also a three way valve between the two evaporators that must be tested.
If the evaporator is OK, check the main control board at the base of the unit. That board hosts relays that distribute power. Check components and replace it only if the problem is not evaporator itself (test and double test), and if you see something wrong in there (eg. bulged capacitor, clicking relay when on, resistor not showing continuity).
I cannot be more specific without schematics. See if there is a service tag with a model number inside the fridge.
Posted on Mar 21, 2011
Welcome to FixYa.
I'll just throw this out there and you can take it for what it is, just my experience as a fellow technician.
I've seen some recent defrost elements being broken which 9 times out of 10 check out OK. It is usually right at the point of where the wire enters the element and it has fooled me at first a few times. I can ohm it out and it seems fine. I got lucky one time and as I was twisting the wire checking continuity, it showed itself open, now I've seen several over the past 2years or so.
I have been repairing appliances for around 20yrs. and it is something I've only seen occur recently on late model fridges. I will admit most of those have been of the Frigidaire/Electrolux variety, but I just thought I'd put that out there for you. I know you could be scratching your head over this for days otherwise and it may not be the case, but you may want to try a heating element...considering all you've done this far it would appear you have nothing to lose.
Here's wishing you luck from one who's been where you are. Good luck.
Posted on Mar 21, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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