Question about Ovens

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GE Oven Model JB940. Dual burner on cooktop has no temperature control, it is either off or fully on highest heat. Switch for this burner has been replaced in past, and problem has probably been around since then. Can miswiring of the switch cause this issue, what is best way to troubleshoot this issue? Have been trying to locate a wiring diagram, but have been unsuccessful so far.

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  • 5 more comments 
  • mikeinrtp Mar 20, 2011

    Rick, since the burner controls the heat put out by turning the burner on and off, is there a thermostat that controls the on/off cycle, or is it purely controlled by the switch? The switch is pricey, so want to be sure it is the switch before I go ordering another one. Cannot tell if this problem was there immediately after installation of the switch, or if happened later, but think it has not worked properly since new switch was installed. Do you have access to a wiring diagram? I am not confident that the switch is wired correctly, so wanted to verify that it is.

  • mikeinrtp Mar 21, 2011

    Yeah, I tried there also, figured I must be doing something dumb that precluded me from downloading the pdf file I found there. Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

  • mikeinrtp Mar 21, 2011

    Received wiring info via appliantology. Will troubleshoot further tomorrow. G'nite...

  • mikeinrtp Mar 21, 2011

    Got the switch out this morning. As best as I can tell, the resistance did not change when rotating the control know, so I conclude same as you....the switch is defective. Will order a new one. Much thanks for your help, I appreciate it!

  • mikeinrtp Mar 21, 2011

    Greatly helpful, and greatly appreciated. Would recommend Rick to anyone!

  • mikeinrtp Mar 23, 2011

    8-( No joy with the new switch, exactly the same symptoms as before. The new switch included a wiring hookup diagram so have verified that wires are connected correctly. The burner (either the small or both small/outer burner are full on, or full off, with no control in between. The other burners cycle on/off to achieve different temperatures, and this dual burner should do the same but does not. What now?

  • mikeinrtp Mar 23, 2011

    Rick, never mind, on recheck of connections I found faulty connector. Repaired that, and Viola! it started working properly! Again, thanks for your help



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As you have noted this is a switch issue what is happening is the switch is arcing open which is why you have no in between control of the switch and when you turn it on it just immediatley goes to hi this is sometimes due to power surge coming from the control or to much power going into your unit or it could even be a defective switch when you replaced that was sent to you as a replacement and believe me I have seen plenty of defective switces come in brand new. how long did the new switch work for before this happend again? when you replaced the switch did you have any control function for a period of time and then it just quit again? you would first replace the switch and when you take the switch out if you take the old switch apart you will see on the inside how it has arced inside the switch from one side to the other if this happens again after this you would have no other alternative then to replace the contol the control is what depicts how much power goes through the switch. I would first try the switch though and see how it works after you replace the switch

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

  • 6 more comments 
  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    Thanks again I await your reply Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    its purely controled by the switch. if you want to be sure its the switch remove the switch and take it apart you should see where one side of the metal on the inside of the switch has arced to the other side as far as pricey have you tried under contact us there is a 1800 number this is the cheapest appliance parts place that i use as well much much cheaper then the other repair dealers if you are not confident on the wiring of the switch there should be a wiring diagram inside where the contol is so if you pull out the unit and go in from where the control is on the back of the machine there should be a wiring diagram located in there the usually dont tell customers where they put the service manuals nor the wiring diagrams also ive seen them put this same diagram if you have a lower drawer pull out the drawer and it would be on a side wall I will go and try to find you a wiring diagram although most on other sites tend to want to charge for the diagrams so check in those two locations for the diagram inside your machine and i will await your reply while i look as well Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 20, 2011

    are you also on appliantology with a post under the same diagram that im looking for lol, im seeing the same exact unit and the same search for the same diagram on there for the double burner as well lol yes I am a member there also il keep looking Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 21, 2011

    i found it also but also not able to get on that site idk why though if you happen to get the diagram stick it on the appliantology site great bunch of people there and please remember on here when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to help others in the future Thanks Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 21, 2011

    also did youtake apart the switch to inspect where the switch has arced from one side to the other ?

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 21, 2011

    have a good nite il look for your reply tomorrow Thanks again Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 21, 2011

    Thank you Mike let me know how you make out on the repair this chat will remain open as long as you post to it Thanks again Rick

  • Rick Ead
    Rick Ead Mar 23, 2011

    Great news if you ever have any further issues that i can help you with message me directly by looking up my name on this site Thanks again for using fixya Rick



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1 Answer

On my Ge electric oven, sometimes it starts but after 3-4 seconds it shuts down and the true temp light flashes, but most of the time when I push the bake button the true temp light just flashes.

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!






Jun 04, 2015 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

My GE profile electric range (model PS905SPSS) has a power boil burner with dual burner elements (one inner circle and one large outer circle). The outer circle one is glowing and heating but the inner...

Disconnect power to range. If you have an ohm meter, you can check the burner coils for continuity from the wires at the switch. If not, open oven door, remove screws holding top. Lift up top and remove screws holding the set of burners in question and visually inspect the inner coil for a break in the burner coil.

Nov 27, 2010 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

Not heating up right

Hi,when Element does not heat up correctly

1. Test for power to determine that the unit is receiving the correct voltages.
2. If the power voltages are correct and you have standard surface burner elements:
1. Test Surface Burner.
2. Test the Receptacle.
3. Test the Burner Switch.
3. If the power voltages are correct and you have solid-disc elements:
1. Test the solid-disc element.
2. Test the Burner Switch.
4. If the power voltages are correct and you have radiant heating elements:
1. Test the radiant heating element.
2. Test the Burner Switch.

1. Make sure the controls are set properly that the oven selector switch is set correctly and that the temperature switch is set to the desired temperature. Where applicable, make sure the oven timer is set to manual.

2. Make sure the oven door is slightly ajar as per your owner's manual.

3. If nothing else on the Range, Oven or Cooktop is working then:
1. Check the circuit breaker or fuse
2. Test for power

4. Test the broiler element.

5. Check the oven thermostat.

6. Check selector switch.

7. Check oven cycling relay.


Please if no experience, please contact a skillful personnel for assistance.

Thanks for using fixya..and please don't forget to rate me 100%.


Oct 28, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Ge range model # js968 has power but cooktop & oven don't work

Check for proper power (control panel is 120V, burners and heat element are 240V) You may have lost connection in one of hot wires causing the burners/elements not to work yet the control panel still will


Feb 25, 2009 | Ovens

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