Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator
My GE Profile Refrigerator Ice/Water dispenser is not working.
It makes ice ... but the front panel ice and water buttons don't work ... they light up ... but they don't work ... when you push the water button ... nothing happens and when you push the ice button nothing happens.
Motor? Water Line? Both? (this is a good refrigerator ... less than three years old)
Had the same problem. Pressed button heard a click, saw zeroes flash, then nothing. After some online search I found and solved the problem. Corrosion and condensation on the connector plug attached to the wire at the bottom of the freezer door. Remove plastic grill, pull out wire from under box. You'll find a plastic connector and possibly wet or corroded wiring. CUT POWER TO FRIDGE OFF FIRST. I cut away the white plastic connector then stripped and tied the wires together with wire caps. Taped them up too. Note which wire goes to which first. Mine was blue to blue, black to black, and red to white. Problem solved.
Posted on Sep 04, 2012
I have the same problem and I hear the micro switch click, but nothing happens when the paddle is pressed.
Posted on Sep 10, 2008
My GE Refrigerator makes ice but doesn't dispense water and ice. I called GE and they replaced the mother board for it was not free.
Posted on Jul 18, 2012
I had the same problem with my GE Profile Arctica model #PSC23SGRD. The ice dispenser stopped working completely (although the freezer still made ice okay) and the water dispenser started to work intermittently.
I had read that either the circuit board in the front (behind the ice and water buttons) could fail or the main "mother" board in the back could fail. First I checked the one in the front for any visible signs of failure but it looked fine. Then I checked the board in the back (lower freezer side). Right away I could smell the distinct smell of blown capacitors so I looked for the matching visual evidence. Sure enough there were two "bulging" caps near the top right side of the board. I decided I would try and replace them myself and hope for the best so I went ahead and bought two new replacements from my local Fry's. BTW, the capacitors were 470 micro Farads @ 25 volts. They should be rated to at least 105 degrees. Cost was $1.50 each.
Next I removed the board from the fridge. First unplug the fridge. The board is on the back of the fridge near the bottom of the freezer side. There is a panel cover with a dozen or so screws holding it. One screw holds down a ground wire so keep note of that. Remove the panel and you will see a large circuit board with about 7 wire harnesses attached to it. Note were each one goes and its orientation before removing them! Each harness has a slip lock connector that is impossible to remove from the board without breaking the clip that locks it down to the board. Don't worry about breaking those clips, I think GE does this on purpose to determine if the board has been tampered with or not. Anyway, remove all of the wire harnesses. Don't bother removing the two ground wires from the board, just keep them on. The board itself is mounted to the fridge with small pastic posts that click through holes in the board. These are easy to slip off if you pinch the top of the post before pulling out the board. Once the board is out, it is time to replace those caps.
Now the fun begins. Time for a little soldering. First you must remove the old caps by desoldering them and plucking them out. Please note the cathode side of the old caps before removing them b/c the orientation matters! Once they are out, solder in the new ones. This whole process shouldn't take too long, maybe 20 minutes?
Now the moment of truth. Put the board back into the fridge and put all the wire harnesses back where they go. Reattach the panel (make sure the ground wire is screwed down). Plug in the fridge. Cross fingers.
I hope this works for you. I worked for me and only cost a few bucks instead of the cost of a new motherboard and service call!
Posted on Dec 30, 2010
Check the connector at the bottom of the freezer door first , you should also be able to hear the micro switch click when you press the paddle
Posted on Aug 28, 2008
I can not get water from the fridge after changing the filter, but the front panel and ice machine works fine? please help
Posted on May 06, 2013
We had the same problem and finally gave up and called the tech to come out. My girlfriend was there when he came out and said they have been having lots of problems with the motherboards in these refrigerators and replaced it for FREE! Good job GE. This was in mid December 2008. Hope they treat you the same and pass on the info to help other frustrated owners.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
MY MOTHER'S GE SIDE BY SIDE REFRIGERATOR'S WATER/ICE MAKER DOESN'T HAVE ANY LIGHTS ON AND ISN'T WORKING, BUT EVERYTHING ELSE ON THE REFRIGERATOR WORKS. DOES SHE NEED TO CHANGE A FUSE OR MOTHERBOARD, ETC?
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Ice maker Diagnostic Test:
- Remove the ice bucket
-Turn the ice maker off, wait 15 seconds than turn it back on
-Press the ice paddle three times, this will begin diagnostic test.
-PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH ICE MAKER DURING DIAGNOSTICS
-In 3 minutes you should see the rack inside turn 360 degrees
-AND the ice maker bowl should fill with water
-IF either DID NOT work, call 1-800-GE-CARES for ice maker replacement. A service call is approx $80. The $80 will be deducted from the part/labor if you choose to purchase/install parts from the service technician. If not, you will pay for the service call. Good luck.
Posted on Apr 05, 2010
Hi Urban Woman,
Unfortunately, your dispenser interface board has gone to appliance parts heaven and needs to be replaced. Fortunately it's relatively cheap. If I recall correctly, all you have to do to access the dispenser board is use a small flat screwdriver. There are 2 locking "tabs"/slots on either side and underneath the board (you will barely be able to see it, they're just that small).
Of course you already know that you need to unplug the fridge before doing any repairs so I can skip that part.
Insert your screwdriver into those slots and pry the bottom of the board out. Then grasp it with your hands and remove it completely. There are three wire bundles on it, remove them and re-install them on the new board. Then simply snap the new board into place.
This should take maybe 15 minutes to do... super easy job.
p.s. Here's a link to the service manual, but the removal of the dispenser board is not in it (everything else is, though, so it may come in handy later)
p.s.s. Since you're going to be unplugging the fridge for the repair, you ought to go to Home Depot and pick up one of these to plug it back into. Transient voltage spikes are most likely the cause of all your woes... including the main board that was replaced.
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
try pulling out the ice bucket, remove all ice and look for signs of damage on the auger mechanism... most of the time the ice tends to clump up and that prevents the auger from moving freely.
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
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