Question about Asko Washing Machines
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Both the Asko built washer and dryer have internal fuses aside from the home circuit breakers for added safety.
Since the washer is typically plugged into the dryer, you'll want to check all the fuses and wires in both the washer as well as the dryer.
The 2 internal fuses for the Asko washer, (depending on the model, but generally in the same location) are located at the back next to the power cord...
To remove and check the fuses you`ll need a flat/slotted screwdriver and place it in the slot of the fuse holder and turn them left 1/4 turn and pull out. (the image may differ from your's as I alluded to based on the model number)
**The above is an image for removing the dryer fuse, but the same procedure applies**
Once removed this is what you should see...
I would also suggest removing the top of the washer to visually inspect the condition of the wires as a poor connection can cause the fuses to blow.
The replacement part is a 240v 15 amp slow blow fuse. part number will be as listed below and it is a complete kit available at "repairclinic.com"
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Hope that answers your question or better yet solves the problem altogether.
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Posted on Mar 20, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
If it still doesn't work, I'd use the diagnostics procedures in the Service manual to determine if it is the Motor.
Posted on May 10, 2010
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