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I have a pair of Wharfdale laser 40 speakers that each need the woofer and tweeter cones replaced. How much will this cost, is it worth it?

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To recone these speakers would not be cost effective. I suggest you buy replacement speakers. a good source of high quality (even higher than the ones in your unit) is www.martinsoundproducts.com they sell many different kinds and sizes of speakers. If you want to go an easier route you could buy replacement speakers from Best Buy or Radio Shack, but they would not be of the highest quality. one last place to buy speakers is from a high end music store that caters to professional musicians and maybe has a repair dept, (where you could order the speakers you need) good luck, the Waferdale speakers are great, too bad you blew them out.

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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I have a pair of Paradigm Monitor 3 V.2 High Def speakers for my front L&R home theater system. On speaker sounds very tinny with no bottom end. On inspection neither the main or tweeter loo


A few questions to help me help you: (1) Does the woofer cone move freely when you use your hands to move it (or do you feel friction)? (2) have you tried swapping the left speaker for the right to rule out the receiver as a cause?

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Your driver has a damaged voice coil, you can either find a speaker repairer to replace the voice coil or find a replacement driver to fit.

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I need a color coded wiring diagram for a peavey PV115 speaker cabinet.


Usually the colors you will find are red and black pair and yellow and white... USUALLY the red/blk pair go to the tweeter horn with red going to the + lead of the horn drivers. Usually the yellow/white pair go to the woofer with the white going to the + lead of the woofer in Peavey speakers... HOWEVER you never know if someone has rewired the cabinet so going by colors is NOT the best way to go... This should have the "soundgard" circuit in it and the lead that goes throught the lamp and resistor that is NOT connected to the inout jack is the TWEETER + lead. The pair that connects to the inout jack DIRECTELY is the woofer leads and the TIP connection of a 1/4 inch jack is the + woofer lead. Verifying these connections is the best method.

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To Mr. Hyde: you appear experienced with Bose 501 Series III speakers. I need to replace a burned out glass bulb fuse inside the right speaker, the fuse for the woofer I believe. I think that you said that...


Hello whit_hughes,

Just received your request for some information regarding Bose 501's......... Series III. Your looking for te manufacturers part # for the fuse which is in line with the woofer? The fuses used ON the Series III Crossovers (hard wired/soldered directly to crossover board/componants) have been Identified as BUSS #2494, 2amp, Quick-Blow Glass Tube Type Fuses. The fuse which is in-series with the woofer & the fuse which is in-series with the pair of tweeters are the same! In theory this means that the woofer is capable of twice the wattage of the tweeters due to the tweeters being wired in series with each other..... which in turn divides the power beween the two equaly. On the woofer circuit there is only the one speaker or voice coil obsorbing the power. The woofer circuit being wired in parallel with the tweeter circuit again splits the power between the two cuircuits..... so in an ideal situation the woofer sees 50% total input power while the tweeters each see 25% total input power;;;; totaling 100% total. The way Bose has fused them in the Series III's is such that each branch can obsorb a total of 2 amps before shutting down each indivigual branch. This can be adventageous..... should peak power be exceeded causing loss of full load abruptly, Amplifier Power Output Transistors usually blow..... however when only half of the full cuircuit shuts down due to peak power exeeding limits causing one fuse to open (blow) ... the actual impedance (resistance) of the speaker increases protecting the Amplifiers Output Transistors! Thats the reason for the 2 fuses. Each of them are identical. They are soldered into place.... via the wire which is attached to each end of the fuse. (Note; the fuse "kit" Bose is trying to sell you is an external in line fuse holder for each speaker {costing 1.29 each} & 2 fuses for each holder, One for now & One for Later aftr it blows {costing 1.00 each}..... costing Bose 6.58, neting Bose $13.42 Profit!!!! Keep in mind that this fuse WILL NOT FIX YOUR PROBLEM EITHER! DUE TO THE FUSE WHICH IS PRESENTLY BLOWN HAS NOT BEEN REPLACED!!!!! ) The one that has to be replaced is on the crossover... not between the Amplifier & the Speaker Enclosure. Tools required = 1 Long Big Straight Blade Screwdriver to pry off speaker grill, 1 Phyllips Screwdriver to remove screws seccuring woofer to encloser... be carefull not to damage/tear gasket, 1 pair side cutters to cut blown fuse out of crossover curcuit, 1 pair needle nose pliers to attach NEW fuse to crossover curcuit, 1 soldering Iron & a small piece of solder to re-solder fuses leads securly to crossover curcuit. ( replace gasket, woofer, screws, & speaker grill. ENJOY! Should additionaL informaton be required please let me know.... you'll have to leave me your e-mail address for pictures or drawings.... as I don't think they can be sent through this site. Hope this helps ya..... Its an EASY JOB...... you CAN DO IT! & will be glad you did when your done, they'll sound GREAT! ) GOOD LUCK!

Jun 22, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

I have a pair of custom made bookshelf size speakers that I love. They are older speakers that use french made Focal 7" dual voice coil drivers. One mid-bass 7" driver and one tweeter per...


Hi,
Well, fortunately it was the woofer that blew out. The reason I say that is because woofer material should have little to do with accurate reproduction in that frequency range. Since I don't know the model number of the speaker that was discontinued, I can suggest to you what can be done to get a satisfactory result.
1st If you have the model number on the Bass Driver AND Focal has the specifications. Go ahead and match the characteristics using THEIR data. The most important characteristics, besides the size of the driver would be the efficiency of the driver in terms of dB out. And the resonance frequency.
If these two are matched up closely, you should be good to go.
Focal is known to make good drivers, however, if you have to go to another manufacturer and you match the specs as above, then you should still do well.
If you get a newer Driver from focal, some of the characteristics may have been improved upon over the older driver. Such as transient response. If that were improved upon, It wouldn't sound really different, but it would seem tighter in the bass range.
One other thing I suggest. If you do as I suggest above and are pleased with the result, Go ahead and replace the woofer in the other speaker.
One additional point worth mentioning. Many of the foam surround speakers used in the old days in audio have failed because the foam has literally rotted away, as may be the case with your woofer. I know, as I have re-foamed enough of them. If you find a satisfactory woofer with a butyl rubber surround, it will never rot.
That would be the best replacement, as it would be permanent (if you don't badly overdrive it)
I've been an audiophile for most of my life, and I love music. I REALLY feel for you. I think that you will come out this just fine.
I hope this helps you,
Best,
Mark

Jan 19, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

2 Answers

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The voice coil is open, you can look real close at the spider wires that are soldered from the two terminals to the cone to see if they are bad, otherwise you will need new woofer, you can try getting the woofer from partsexpress.com

Feb 14, 2010 | Boston Acoustics Micro90X Speaker

1 Answer

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1 Answer

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2. Call Bose and exchange them for current 201 speakers (higher clarity more powerful). Bose will give you about 30-40% off I believe on a series 5 model. They now pay for inbound and outbound shipping as well.

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

Need to replace 11L tweeter


the best solution I've found is this:
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This method also works for the woofer but you need to be very careful to tap the frame or magnet of the woofer and not the cone.

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