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How do I get at the brushes on a Hilti TE17 to replace them? Have stripped top and botton of casing and removed circlip but unable to tap out rotor, moves eigth of inch or so and no further. Alteratively can I pull out the plastic holders for the brushes?

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  • David Ford
    David Ford Mar 22, 2011

    I can't find the TE-17 on the Hilti site. I would recommend calling them direct at 1-800-879-8000 and getting a tool schematic sent to you so you can see what is involved. Usually all the Hiltis that I have worked on once you remove the bottom cover you can access the brush/brush holder assembly with no problem. Hope this helps a little.



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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 201 Answers

SOURCE: What do I need to replace the brushes in Bosch Bulldog 11210VSR

Were the brushes severely worn? It's really only the brush that you need to replace, as long as the spring didn't come into contact with the rotor and get worn.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: brushes in motor are arcing badly and motor only

This is kinda of tricky. need to know what kinda of vacuum it is first. However if you get it apart. To fix this problem the armeture brass needs to be cleaned & you should replace both carbon brushes. Should be cheap to fix if you are up to it. good luck save some $$$$...

Posted on Nov 12, 2009

  • 123 Answers

SOURCE: Hilti TE17 - what kind of oil does it take? this

You can use an AW46 hydraulic fluid. Around 35cc's if the gear housing is still wet with oil or 50cc's if you washed it out. The black cap just means that you don't have a safety clutch.

Posted on Dec 04, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: how do i remove (and replace) the carbon brushes

After removing the black brush caps, take compressed air and blow any debris out. Next take a pair of needle nose pliers and gently pull the brush,,, ( you can use a moderate force). If it does not pull out you may need to remove the black vent cover adjacent and use a tiny screwdriver between the brush and the armature, as there may be a slight burr on the brush. Good Luck.

Posted on Dec 21, 2010

  • 304 Answers

SOURCE: how do I change the carbun brush of my Hilti TE 10. I unscrew it but I can't pull it out.

You could have a problem with the armature and or the field.

Posted on Jun 17, 2012

Testimonial: "yes it was the armature,but how do I find the part. here in the Philippines."

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We have a hilti hammer drill te17 240 volt can we still get the brushes for it thankyou a.j buckingham

That model in discontinued and Hilti won't sell parts for it. I recommend searching the internet for parts suppliers. I'm not directly familiar with any myself...tThis can be a hit-or-miss prospect but you might luck out. Ebay can be a good source.

Hope this helps.


Jun 09, 2011 | Drills

1 Answer

Need owners manual for hilti te 17

Owners manuals are no longer available. The TE17 has not been sold in over 30 years. Hilti no longer carries parts for the TE17. I can tell you just about anything you would want to know about the TE17s.

Lube: 30cc if the gear housing is still wet. 50cc if the housing has been washed out.
Older models had the "twist type" chuck. Meaning you would twist the chuck to insert the bit.
Newer versions had the "pull back" chuck.

If you have a black fill cap on top of the gear housing it meant that you did not have a safety slip clutch. If you had red cap then you did.

The armature rode on an oilite bushing which would tend to wear out and cause the armature to rub against the field.

If your 17 is still running then great run it until it quits. The only place to find parts are used ones on Ebay

Feb 24, 2011 | Drills

1 Answer

Need on/off switch for Hilti TE 17 Hammer Drill

Parts for the TE17 have been discontinued for over 15 years. The switches and the oilite bearings for the motor were the first to run out.

Jan 07, 2011 | Hilti Hammer Drill, 8.4 Lb 3 Mode, Te 16 C

1 Answer

Hilti TE17 - what kind of oil does it take? this one has a black filler cap

You can use an AW46 hydraulic fluid. Around 35cc's if the gear housing is still wet with oil or 50cc's if you washed it out. The black cap just means that you don't have a safety clutch.

Dec 01, 2010 | Hilti Drills

1 Answer

Looking for a trigger for a hilti TE17

you can contact them direct at or call them at 1-800-879-8000 for a location near you that has Hilti parts. Let me know if you need more assistance before voting on my reply and I will find one near you if you give me your general area with zip code.

Nov 15, 2010 | Hilti Drills

1 Answer

I have a Hilti TE17 (some 40 years old), limited use - needs an oil change. Spoke to a Hilti guy today, they no longer service them. He told me how to change the oil, but could not tell me what type of oil...

You can use an AW46 Hydraulic oil. Do not put more than 35cc of oil in tool if you just poured out the old oil. You can put 50cc if you washed the housing out. Too much oil takes out the cushing of air between pistons. You will break the connecting rod or strip the gears. If you take the cap off of the top of the gear housing, older ones will be black. Newer ones had a red cap indicating that there was a clutch and see and it still looks wet with oil then I would not mess with it.

Jun 15, 2010 | Drills

2 Answers


hi i have a 30 year old hilti te17, yes i know but its great but i need the bit holder ( chuck i think its called, the thing that hold the drill bit in for this hammer drill, otherwise its works perfect, built to lasst these things, but parts are hard to come by in aystralia, anyone help me if you can please

Mar 09, 2010 | Hilti TE 7-C 120V Rotary Hammer Drill

1 Answer

Need brushes for an old style hilti te17

Hilti should be able to provide you with them. If not contact a local motor repair outlet and find brushes the same size, they are very easy to change on the TE series.

Failing that Hilti offers a trade-in program for their tools.

Dec 31, 2009 | Hilti TE 7-C 120V Rotary Hammer Drill

2 Answers


Its not that hard. however I have been working with hiltis for 22 years. once you have removed the handl assembly, remove the 4 screws which hold the motor unit to the gearbox. you will lose oil but dont worry. this will expose the drive gears. the smaller one is the crank drive or the hammer action. the larger one is the clutch assembly for the drilling action. remove the smaller of the 2 gears from its shaft by removing the circlip. you should now be able to see the circlip which holds the crankshaft into the gear housing. remove the circlip and pull out th crankshaft, this will be a tight fit so you may have to hold the shaft in a vice and carefully fit the gear housing using a rubber mallet. now you have to remove the chuck. 1st remove the rubber cap by getting a large flat screwdrivver behind it. using circlip pliers, remove the c-clip (wear safety goggles) the rest of the chuck parts should them be able to be removed with easy. you should now be able to see a large circlip, remove it. you can now remove the oil seal. this will need replacing as it is hard to remove without damage. part number 206105. under the seal there is another circlip. once this is removed you will be able the remove the guts of the gear box. again you may have to put the chuck tube in a vice and tap the gearbox housing with a rubber mallet. again you will loose oil. to reassembly just reverse the prosess. remove the oil filler cap to ensure that the crank shaft locates on the con rod . once reassembled replace the oil. 40cc only. transmission oil is good and the closest match you will get to the origional. for more info send me an email.

ps before you start make sure that parts are still available for this machine asit is quit old (no offence).
The piston rings (17955) are but i dont know about the oil seal.
you car get the seal from any car parts shop. it is a double lipped seal 35mm x 62mm x 10mm.

I hope this has helped. please leave feed back.
email me if you want a diagram sent.

Happy xmas

Nov 03, 2009 | Hammering

4 Answers

I have a hilti TP800 that will not hammer. no polunging action for the chisels

TP800 are that takes me back. right hear we go...
as over people have sugested remove the 4 screws and the black plastic cap from the top of the machine. you should be able to see the con rod and the crank gear, and in front of the crank gear you should see the small gear which is the top of thr armature, you may have to scoop out some grease in order to see it. Check that the con rod is not broken. earlier machines had aluminium cod rods but the later models have plastic ones which were prone to breaking. this isn't to say that the aluminium ones never broke because they did and wow what a mess may made when they did. if your con rod looks ok, try this... keep your hands clear of the open gears, and put some glasses on. turn the machine on and make sure that the crank is turning. look at the small gear on the armature to see is it is wobbly. the small roller bearing at the top of the armature use to callapse causing them to wobble. this would strip both the gears. a good sign of this is metalic parlicles in the grease. this fault is very expensive as you will have to replace the armature, bearing, seal, and the crankshaft. ouch...BUT DONT DESPARE. if this looks ok, it must be the piston rings these are cheap, fairly easy to change and available, as they are still used on more current models. the part number for these piston rings (o-rings) is 13772. want to know how to change them?.. read on...The hardest part is removing the chuck as you must remove the retaining clip at the tip of the chuck. hilti make a special tool for this, but it is possible with a good set of circlip pliers, 2 flat screw drivers and 4 hands. top tip...Remove the rear handle assembly, just remove the 4 screws and pull it off, now the machine can be stood upright on a workbench. Wear safaty goggles and put a chisel in the chuck, this will help you not to loose the clip when it flies across the workshop, I hate it when that happens. once you have the clip off its easy from now on. and don't worry, there is an easy way to get it back on. ok, the clip is off. remove the washer and the plastic chuck cover. remove the circlip, remove the chuck sleeves, dont loose the 6 balls or the roller. now there is another large circlip which holds on the black plastic cover. remove them both. now you can see the 6 bolts which hold the machine together. remove them. remove the will see a large o-ring around the cylinder, remove it. Now with a screw driver carfully split the cylinder at the point where the o-ring was sitting. carefully pull out the inner cylinder. dont loose the small plastic balls. if they fall out dont worry. put them to one side. inside this cylinder you will find the follower piston, just tap the clyinder on the workbench and it will fall out. replace the o-ring, smaer with grease and replace. The drive piston is probably still inside the red casing. Simply pull the con rod off the crank and tip it out of the casing. on early models this piston had 2 seals. 1 teflon ring over a green rubber O-Ring. on later models these were replaced with an o-ring, the same as the follower piston, the earier type may not be available in which case you may have to replace the pison as well in order to fit the newer o-ring system. once the seals have been replaced, smear with grease. place the piton inside the cylinder just far enough so the conector pin cant fall out of the drive piston. Replace the plastic balls into the detents in the cylinder. use grease to hold them in place. Replace the cylinder into the caseing but make sure that the cut out at the end of the cylider is facing down. This is where the armature gear sits. as you push the cylinder in ensure that the con rod is hooked onto the crankshaft. reassemble in reverse order. use grease to hold the chuck balls and roller in place. dont fit the rear handle for that clip that caused all the pain at the start of the job. PuT YOUR GOGGLES ON. stand the machine upright on the workbench and get somone to hold it. place the clip on top of the chuck body tube. get a block of wood and place it on top of the ring, and hit it with a hammer. this will knock the ring on 80% of the way, now tap it on with the hammer. refit the rear handle. your done,,,if you removed all the grease replace with a similar type. 70 grams (3 oz) in the crank case under that black plastic cover..
Well I hope that helps, its not as bad as it sounds.
good luck.
please leave feedback .
if you have any more questions please email me.
if you want a parts diagram i can email you a drawing of a TE804 which is virtually the same machine with a slightly different chuck.

Oct 08, 2009 | Hammering

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