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Whirlpool awm 1000 drum loose and making a lot of noise how do i repair

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine rubber door seal replacement

Go to www.Searspartsdirect.com You should be able to find an exploded view and parts list

Posted on Feb 29, 2008

Nitrotrike
  • 589 Answers

SOURCE: I need an english user

You can view / download / print the manual here:

http://www.whirlpool.co.uk/app.cnt/whr/en_GB/pageid/pgsrvifuhome001/DOCTYPE/IFU/DOCLANGUAGE/GB

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

SearsTechToo
  • 261 Answers

SOURCE: My frontload washing machine makes

First grab the steel basket and see if it wobbles. Second check for leaks underneath, there is two screws at the base of the kick panel to check, looking for wet stains at the back of the machine or pull it out and unplug it remove the screws on the back panel. Next watch out for any edges they are sharp!, I have scars to prove it. Ok you will see a flywheel with a belt attaching it to a motor. Grab the flywheel and apply some pressure up and down and please look for water stains. Any movement? Check the nut or torx bolt first for looseness, it may only need to be secured better, If not and you see water you will two guys and good digital camera and part 134453200 which is a fully assembled basket and tub ready to go, the camera is to take photos of all the stuff which is attached, it will be easier than a grainy stick drawing when re attaching. TIP the pin on the shocks can be depressed with 1/2 deep well socket and the pump boot only need to be unscrewed from the tub after carefull viewing of the boot where it is attached, it is a little tricky, good luck.

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Problem with whirlpool AWM 1000

It's not indicated to put much detergent ( washing solution), because it will stop water acces, causing acumulation of water, then the LED will indicate Hydro-Secutity. The solution is open the washing mashine you'll see that you need to evacuate water then to clean manualy the indicator ( Hydro-Security). That's all, I hope that i my information was helpful for your problem.

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: roper washing machine the drum is loose and makes

remove the drum unit and check out as follows: Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 
Bearing and Seal notes: 
 
Tips for removal / replacement of inner tub....
 
1. After removing the back panel and drive belt, remove the pulley from the shaft. The bolt is removed easily, but we often have to gently pry around the base of the pulley to remove it (unless you have a puller). The pulley is very light and the metal is soft, so be very careful that you do not damage or bend it while prying.2. The inner tub will lift out once you have split the outer drum halves.
3. Remove the 3 tumbling fins from the old inner tub. The new tub will not include these, so you'll need to reinstall the old ones. They are held on by one or to screws each. *Careful* of the outside of the wash basket as it is VERY sharp!!

Posted on May 07, 2009

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window.google_render_ad();There are many places & parts that could be causing your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy. To find out what is causing the noises, you need to find out where are the noises coming from.
Start the dryer and let it run for a while and listen to try to pinpoint where in the dryer the noises is coming from. Once you have an idea of the area, you will need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet and take the dryer apart.
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The drum baffles are use to tumble the clothes inside of the drum, in other words, the baffles job is to separate the pieces of laundry as the drum turns.
When the dryer is getting older and if you use the dryer a lot, the drum baffles holding screws will become loose. Loose drum baffles will cause noises. All you need to do, is to open the top panel and tighten the drum baffles holding screws.
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These dryers uses four drum support rollers, tow on the front and two on the rear. The job of the drum support rollers is to keep the drum tumbling smooth.
When the grease on one of the rollers dry out, the roller start to make squeaking noises and the roller bearing will start to wear out until the bearing on the roller is gone. When the bearing on the roller is gone, the noise will change from squeaking to a clanking noise.
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The blower wheel is use to circulate the air inside of the dryer drum. The most common Whirlpool blower noises are cause by something falling inside of the blower housing and hitting the blower when the motor runs.
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The Idler pulley is use to apply the necessary tension on the belt. There are two types of idler pulleys, the pulley with the wheel and the pulley with the teflon slide. A bad idler pulley could cause a Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
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Worn out bearings on the motor will cause the motor to run kind of noisy. When the motor starts making noises, the solution to this problem is to replace the motor.
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The belt on most dryers is only about1/4 inch wide. These belts work very hard making the drum tumble. When the belt stretch just 1/2 inch more that it supposed to, the belt will start slipping and that could cause your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
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